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CR Cold Weather Inspection intercooler icing

70K views 58 replies 24 participants last post by  xeno555  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Just wanted to give all CR owners a heads up with cold weather fast approaching. Some CR owners including myself have found water and oily goo in their cold side inter cooler hoses. Its usually not a problem if there isn't much there. At times though this water can build up enough that when it freezes it can casue a no start problem. The inspection of the cold side inter cooler hose is quite easy. First remove the plastic belly pan. After the pan is off look on the right side of the engine from below. You will see a rubber hose approx. 2 inches in diameter. This is the cold side inter cooler hose. On one end of the hose you will see a regular hose clamp. On the other end is a band type clamp. The end with the regular hose clamp is the end you want to take loose. This end connect to a plastic duct. Loosen the clamp enough to slide it back on the hose out of the way. Now work the hose off the plactic duct. It may take a little effort as it does fit tightly. As soon as you get the hose started off you may get some water from the hose. Pull the hose completely off the duct. This will let you drain all the water(if any) There may also be some oily goo. This goo is from normal oil and water/dirt mixing together in the hose.The color of this goo can range from dark gray to tan. Various amounts of water have been found by owners. On my 09 JSW I removed approx. 1-1/2 to 2 cups. On my 09 Sedan the water was minimal. I checked my neighbors 09 Sedan and the water was also minimal in her inner cooler hose.

dweisel
LUBRICITY,LUBRICITY,LUBRICITY!

Here are a few pics of what you may or may not find.

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Image
 
#29 ·
Most large diesels come with a system to drain condensate (water or oil) from the charge air cooler circuit. Why does VW try to 'skim off' every possible corner on the Clean Diesel TDI to cut costs? We are a group of people that will pay a little extra for the 'full diesel' experience. I think VW really needs to update their market study and get in touch with the TDI fanatic community.

1) Put a water separator with a drain and a water detector in the fuel circuit. It's a diesel and we need to do everything possible to protect the HPFP.

2) Put a 'filter minder' on the fuel filter so that we can perform condition based maintenance.

3) Build every TDI for cold weather. We, the TDI freaks, are not afraid of maintenance and would gladly get under the front end and drain off the charge air cooler condensate.

4) Put an 'advanced' gauge menu into the MFID so that we can select and monitor things like fuel pressure, DPF regeneration status, EGT, boost pressure. All of that data is already running thru the car's network, the software just needs to be updated so that the MFID can display the 'existing' data streams.

I don't think that VW understands nor has properly defined the "driver's experience", as we don't just want to drive the car, we want to understand and monitor the inner workings of the TDI experience.
 
#30 ·
I totally agree with all your points here. Last week I was dumping the third gear to pass a van and suddendly lost power for a second and a big white puff came out of the exhaust. Without any sign of check engine or glow plug warning. So if this is the low temp egr that cause this, i'm sure a chip will do the job.
 
#31 ·
I live is the DC area, but my car displayed the symptoms of an Iced Intercooler last night with a no start condition! It did finally start and did not have any problems today.....although it was 20 degrees warmer this morning......
Anyway I spoke to my Friend who is a Master Tech at Martens VW and told him about the TSB he hadnt seen thye problem before......He said he has however seen sticking egr blades causing no start problems .....
 
#32 ·
cr inspection

What is very interesting is that my dealership did that exact inspection and replaced the airduct. That was their fix as well. i know u have posted how to do it but do u think next time u do this inspection u could take more step by step pics so a complete novice could do it ? either way thank you for all your great posts.

jan
 
#33 ·
CR Cold Weather Inspection

Team:

I posted this on the other (less friendly) TDI forum and wanted to share it here.

After reading on here and having some rough starts, I ramped my car chocked it good and removed the belly pan as you would when you do an oil change. As described I removed the hose clamp and carefully pulled the giant radiator looking hose away. I found using a big screwdriver around between the hose and the intercooler made removal a breeze. Just like you would a radiator hose only bigger (I like simple words not like the folks on that OTHER forum who correct you for semantics)

For clarity the hose I disconnected was on the PASSENGER side. Make sure you remove the simple looking HOSE CLAMP not the fancy crimp connector thing

Here are some pictures I took. I nicely made an appointment with my dealer and showed the pictures to my service advisor. No sweat the TSB repair kit was ordered but no ETA.



https://picasaweb.google.com/wilcharl/ChargedAirWinterInspection?authkey=Gv1sRgCMmR_6LRm5C__QE
 
#37 ·
After the pan is off look on the right side of the engine from below.

PLEASE HELP ME OUT. Is the cold side IC hose on the left when standing in font of car. Pasenger side? Recently the dealer said I had an IC oil leak on the right side (it was the pasenger side). I would feel better if they said the driver side or driver side.

Not criticising, I just need to know for sure which is the cold side.

HKS
 
#39 · (Edited by Moderator)
they typically don't call it the cold or hot side, it's pretty much all hot downstream of the turbocharger.

looking at front of car, flow goes from right to left. Normally left and right are referenced sitting in the car.

So I believe the answer you're looking for is the right hose.
Thank you for the help. The drivers side hose (left side) is leaking a little oil and VW wanted to replace the hose for $250 ($149 + labor). So, I would have to take this hose off and see how much oil and water will come out. I am surprised that the VW dealer did not mention IC cleaning.

HKS
 
#40 ·
Sorry to ask again. I looked at the 2009 TDI turbo hoses and it looks like intake air enters on the right side (standing at front of car), goes to the turbo and returns to the right side IC inlet. So, the IC hose that is leaking on my TDI is the one coming directly from the turbo.

Do I need to remove both hoses to drain the condensation?

I read about the dealer replacing a leaking IC inlet hose because it was improperly installed in Mexico. That could be my situation. But I am at 22,000 miles and 4 months out of warranty. Of course the dealer would not talk about this situation, they just wanted to replace the leaky hose at $149 plus $100 labor. If I remove the hose and it is damaged, I may not be able to get it back on.

HKS
 
#42 ·
I just changed my oil and since I had the splash shield off I decided to check my IC hose on the passenger side.

There was only a few drops of water to come out and I wiped up a small amount of the brown goo with one paper towel.

That being said it was a very dry summer with hardly any rain.
 
#58 ·
I just changed my oil and since I had the splash shield off I decided to check my IC hose on the passenger side.

There was only a few drops of water to come out and I wiped up a small amount of the brown goo with one paper towel.

That being said it was a very dry summer with hardly any rain.
It's not the rain, it's the humidity.

Air can only hold 100% humidity: Lets say you have 1 cube foot of air with 100% humidity and compress it to 6" cube, 1/2 the moisture will condense (fall in turbo hose) and you still have 100% humidity. Temperature difference also expands and contract air pressure, drawing and condensing moisture. That is also why it is more problematic in winter.
 
#45 ·
EDIT: Sorry, I just noticed this is a MK5 forum, my car is a 2010 Golf TDi

Here are a couple pictures from my passenger side inter cooler hose, looks very nasty!

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Image


I guess this is VW's way of "cold water injection", they just forgot that it's not a high compression methanol fueled dragster :)
 
#46 ·
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I really hope someone here (maybe dweisel?) can help.

I'm based in the UK. I'm considering buy a low mileage 2013 Jetta 2.0TDi SE, ex-demonstrator, but I am concerned about the intercooler icing problem. I know it has happened much less in the UK than in the USA and Canada, but there have been a few cases here, and not many Jettas are sold here (the UK market prefers hatchbacks). The dealer has confirmed that the car I'd be buying has had the cold weather kit fix, but I read reports that early versions of the kit didn't actually fix the problem. Does anyone know whether the latest version of the kit actually solves it?
 
#48 ·
Thanks very much chittychittybangbang.

I'm test-driving one today. If it suits me, I guess I need to decide whether I'm actually likely to experience the problem in the UK, with the kit fitted, with a relatively short commute of about 15 miles mixed driving, and also how much having a known problem like this is likely to affect resale / trade-in values in a couple of years' time (at which point I'd probably look at swapping it for one of the new water-air intercooled models).

If I'm not confident, then I guess I need to look at a slightly older petrol A4 (which is what I've been driving for the past 8 years) - I hear the diesel A4s have a few reliability issues too.
If only the Japanese manufacturers made better interiors!
 
#49 ·
15 miles is a short drive and I suspect those who don't have a chance to fully heat up and cook out condensation in the engine will have more issues. This even to all engines but diesels take so much longer to warm up and these cars have this issue. The recent A4 TDI have had balance shaft -oil pump issues, very well known. The newer PD engines you had in Europe had piezo injectors which also had issues.
 
#50 · (Edited)
Hmm, thanks. My understanding was that the problem mainly occurred after a long drive in very cold conditions. My commute is only 15 miles, but takes about 40 minutes (about 1/3 each city/motorway/country driving), so apart from the middle section, the engine would not be cruising at low revs. Do diesels really take *that* long to warm up?

The VW dealer I'd be buying from has asked me to send him info on the problem, as he thought it only applied to the previous model of the Jetta (the TSB explicitly states it still applies right up to 2014 models). An independent VAG specialist I've been taking my Audi to for years, and trust, hasn't heard of the issue, so it may be that it really isn't a problem in the UK (I believe there may be some difference in the EGR due to different emissions regulations, plus the temperature very rarely gets much below freezing here).

All the same, I'm now leaning towards getting another petrol instead. I know the Golf/Jetta TSI petrol engine has issues too, so I guess it's back to looking for another A4.
 
#51 ·
In the coldest of winter, mine doesn't even start to put out full cabin heat for 15 minutes local driving which means it's not warmed up until at least 20 minutes. Add on the time to cook out normal condensation. Yes, emission system is slightly different and the UK is more mild. Honestly, if you want reliability (although every model and individual car is different) as a brand I feel Honda is still the best bet.