[mgoff5000]

Sorry, I'm working on my B5 Passat wagon and referencing the thread here:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/lock-carrier-service-position-and-front-bumper-removal-b5-passat/

So does the term intercooler usually refer to the metal heat exchanger component of the charge air system? If so, then at least I know where I'm looking to disconnect.

Thanks!

 

[mgoff5000]

While I'm asking for help, I could also use a tip on whether the bumper carrier needs to be removed to put the car in service position and get at the timing belt etc? The pictures in the write generally have this piece off, but text leaves me thinking it would still be hanging on by the special tool #3411. I'll be happy to update/clarify the wiki once I can get it straight.

"Remove one of the T45 torx bolts on the frame rail as shown below and screw in VW tool# 3411. You can also use M8 x 1.25 x 120mm long bolts (about 5-6" long).

The tool/bolt lets you slide the lock carrier about 4 inches forward to the service position. Now remove the rest of the T45 bolts and slowly slide the lock carrier forward. *NOTE: there are 3 bolts on the driver's side and 4 bolts on the passenger side."

The Bentley is pretty useless on this, in that it says "remove front bumper" which is pretty ambiguous. Could be the cover or the cover and carrier. I'm not sure what's holding up what at this point so I don't wanna guess!

And how much of an issue is this crud on the intercooler?

 

[mgoff5000]

OK, complementing with this one I think I have answers:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=241307

Recommend anyone doing for the first time check both for maximum photographic coverage. I'd still love thoughts on the oil-caked intercooler!

 

[mgoff5000]

More notes:
The fender carrier is not only supported by those three/four T45 bolts, so it doesn't want to "fall off" when they are removed. Also, the lock carrier rig is actually quite light, so now I'm not concerned about just resting it on those M8 bolts.
I think the note on intercooler is a bit of a red herring. I think once you free up the air tubes from the lock carrier you don't have to do anything with the intercooler. It's not attached to the lock carrier so doesn't impede movement.
I've been trying to identify where I'm getting "pullback" as I try to bring the carrier forward. It seems that it's the formed coolant hoses on the drivers side, which I assume are fine to pull and deform a bit temporarily. On the passenger side, the AC lines wrapped around the canister seem to be the limiting factor. Seems to work to push the lower one below the can and get some more slack.

 

[mgoff5000]

Both - The intercooler has to be disconnected but the intercooler itself stays attached to the carrier.

Also, the bolts or tools that you put in to support the carrier stay on while you slide it forward. All the other bolts are disconnected. You may be able to find some vids on youtube that show the process of sliding it forward.

Thanks, I have the car in the service position now. All I detached were the air hoses attached to the metal tube at the bottom of the lock carrier. The intercooler (metal radiator looking unit) doesn't move with the carrier. Was that what you were saying or do I have some non-standard setup here? I posted a picture above and that thing stays right there.

 

[mgoff5000]

Thanks chitty and 13TDIdude.

So does it make sense to limit travel to less than allowed by 120 mm bolts screwed all the way in? The reason that I ask relates to the two questions below. I seem to have sprung two leaks since putting the car in the service position.

I've developed a leak at the bottom pipe of the PS cooler loop. I unbolted the loop before I pulled the lock carrier forward and it really didn't seem to take any stress in the process. I failed to support it, until now, but the thing is super light. Any experience with this? Can these clamps be reset/replaced? Do we expect this to seal up again once is reaches operating temp?

Also, I now have a few drops of coolant (pink, non-viscous, so I don't suspect ATF but let me know if that's wrong) coming off the bottom of the oil pan. I couldn't trace back to the source. Are there coolant connections that could be stressed in this service position that would explain that. Any way to avoid?