Don't bother with the Stealership! Buy the part from Dieselgeek and get on with you life! I bought mine. Installed in short order. Reset light with Ross-tech software. Light out. Took car to garage for inspection. All good. A month later and no light! AWESOME!! Dieselgeek's part is super well made, CNC machined aluminum part! Bravo Dieselgeek and thank you for saving me $$$ (10 X's the cost) to take to Stealership for repair!!!

 

Thanks to Lowyo for the awesome and cheap solution!

I wasted a lot of time trying to find the right screw and drill bit size for this.

Here's what you need:
10-24 4/3" self tapping screw (Ace has them). I was really impressed by how well it worked as I really didn't want to buy a tap set.
Size 20 Drill Bit (Size 19 will also work with this size screw but the fit will be a little less tight).

The 3/4" screw is the perfect size so that you can screw it all the way into the aluminum and this ends up being the right size to support the motor arm without having to cut the screw. Also, i'd recommend getting a hex head screw as it's easier to apply torque with these compared to a flat head screw driver. My motor was missing the spring. While i'm not totally sure it's needed i bought a spring and replaced it. To make sure the linkage didn't fall off of the motor arm again I used an e-clip. I'd recommend a 3/8ths E clip. You can use a dremel to cut the groves in the ball part of the motor arm so that the e-clip will slide on/stay in place.

I could tell right away that the intake flap motor was working again right after this fix but it took about a 1/2 hour of driving for the code to actually go away.

 

BTW, Lowyo's solution only costs < $10 if you don't already have the right sized drill bit. Definitely takes more time compared to the dieselgeek fix. I also forgot to not that I had to use my dremel to cut away at the aluminum a bit so that I had enough room to get the self-tapping screw in all the way. You can see on Lowyo's website where this needs to be done if you use a hex head screw.

 

I have quite a bit of experience with helping people fix their P2015 code. The screwed method only limits motor travel at one end of its sweep, not both ends like our fix bracket does. It is also easy to get the angle wrong when you drill the motor. If you get it wrong there's not any way to correct it. Also, the circlip thing is useless. If you effectively limit travel you do not need to install a circlip on the ball and doing so will increase wear in the system since you are cutting into the ball.

Jim
www.dieselgeek.com

 

Jim,

Your fix is definitely the most comprehensive and least time consuming however for those that don't want to spend $64 on a bracket the alternative is to spend <$10 on a screw and drill bit. I haven't heard of the arm extending too far to the other end being a problem. As I mentioned, a 3/4 inch self-tapping screw is perfect for stopping the arm from going past it's designed limit. Some people might find it hard but I didn't find it hard at all to drill the screw in at the right spot. I think you are right about the e-clip though, definitely a chintzy fix. I just put the clip on as extra insurance so the linkage arm wouldn't be able to fall off again.

 

Thanks Jim and Paula. Your bracket fixed the P2015 code on my 2010 Golf TDI with 131,000 miles. Email support was fantastic! Took about 20 minutes, tops.

 

Got the bracket from dieselgeek, thanks. During motor removal forceps popped off and spring dropped...have searched for hours but haven't yet found. Anyone know where I can get a replacement spring?

 

Sorry for the spin everyone...FOUND IT! Only took 4 hrs of searching...used a can of compressed air around tight spaces just below where it mounts and it fell out.

 

There have been plenty of people that have lost the spring but I have found that the spring is not under tension under any circumstances with a used manifold so it's not doing anything. The system works fine without it. I have a YouTube video about it here:

 

I got this part the other day. I installed it today. I followed the video. It took me about 30 mins or so mostly back and forth for this thing or that thing. First set of hemostats was too small. Second set to big... back into the house again, that kind of thing.

The hardest part for me was figuring out the damn electrical connector clip. You could laugh if you want but I am an Aircraft Electrician. I work on Blackhawks and Chinooks... the VW plug kicked my butt. I didn't want to break it. I am accustomed to cannon plugs. LOL

Thanks to Jim's video, I had no trouble doing the job itself. I did not lose the spring. Code went off in a couple minutes with a few cycles of the key.

Thanks Jim at Dieselgeek. Now, make the part cheaper LOL

 

Greetings all,

I am new to the forum and have the same P2015 code on my 06 VW Jetta TDI 1.9l and I would like to purchase the repair kit but I am not sure if it is the same for my engine as it is not stated that it is compatible with the 1.9l.

I would appreciate the feedback.

Edmond.

 

When trying to pop the linkage arm off the ball end that comes directly from the flap mechanism, the ball end snapped just after the bend toward the intake. This part looks to be maybe powdered metal and due to the space restriction I'm not sure welding is an option. This is looking hopeless at this point but really trying to avoid an over $900 repair!
Anyone have any ideas?

 

I placed a large strong magnet under the flapper motor to catch a wayward spring...it worked. The Dieselgeek bracket is the way to go.

Cheers

Ted

 

@dieselgeek
would this also work on my car.
i have a 2009 VW passat CC 2.0 tdi.
the reason i ask this is because i have the same errors as the rest here but VW garage told me that the whole manifold has te be replaced and that would set me back about €800.
and this is in the netherlands
and after looking around i noticed this simple but effective solution now im thinking if this would work then im a very happy man.

 

Hudek,

The P2015 fix will work perfectly in your CC. Just verify which manifold your car has and order accordingly off of our site. If you have the euro-only black plastic intake manifold we have a special offer you should read about.

www.dieselgeek.com/P2015_Intake_Manifold_Flap_Position_Sensor_s/1900.htm

Thanks,
Jim

@dieselgeek
would this also work on my car.
i have a 2009 VW passat CC 2.0 tdi.
the reason i ask this is because i have the same errors as the rest here but VW garage told me that the whole manifold has te be replaced and that would set me back about €800.
and this is in the netherlands
and after looking around i noticed this simple but effective solution now im thinking if this would work then im a very happy man.

 

wow your fast
i think its best that i copy the error code including the type on this forum.
because im more a electrical geek the mechanical i can do a lot myself regarding programming etc and diy.
but for the rest mmmmm don't know

this is the error code.

Address 01: Engine (CBA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb
Part No SW: 03L 906 022 BL HW: 03L 907 309
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G001SG 6221
Revision: 13H01--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0000072
Shop #: WSC 83712 036 682247
VCID: 70F6C71BFAA3E682EF00065-8024

2 Faults Found:
008214 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2016 - 000 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 15
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158691 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.10.18
Time: 19:51:05

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2070 /min
Speed: 51.0 km/h
Load: 91.0 %
Lambda: 3.9 %
Lambda: -4.7 %
Voltage: 0.000 V
Bin. Bits: 00000000

008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 10
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158764 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2010.10.19
Time: 12:27:01

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1288 /min
Speed: 33.0 km/h
Load: 36.1 %
Lambda: 3.9 %
Lambda: -4.7 %
Voltage: 0.304 V
Bin. Bits: 00000000

 

The .304V voltage reading at the bottom of your list confirms your manifold linkage is out of range. This is exactly what our bracket fixes.

Thanks,
Jim

 

Jim, thanks thats all i need to know.. Now I'll take a look at the manifold.
Personally I think I got the aluminum verstion.
If I order this part what does it cost and the shipping / handling to the Netherlands. How fast can I get it here

do I need to use vcds to make some new settings or only to reset?

And I took a better look at the arm and indeed the arm was on the ball instead of being on the right side of it

Oke this is my aluminum manifold

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Hudeck,

You can choose $4.99 USPS shipping for delivery within 4 weeks or you can choose FedEx for 3 day service for just under $26.00.

Thanks,
Jim

 

Ok I'm going to order the bracket with express.
But do I have to take the motor of the manifold? Personally think that doesn't have to come off.
And my second question do I need to recalibrate the motor?

And to be sure I order the correct bracket
Is this the right one
http://www.dieselgeek.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=EGR-P2015

 

Hudeck,

You do need to take the motor off to absolutely ensure that you get the P2015 bracket positioned properly. We see more problems from car owners that try to install the bracket without removing the V157 motor. You will not need to calibrate anything once the fix bracket is installed. Just make sure that the V157 motor is cycling upon engine shutdown and if not, pull the linkage arm forward while the engine is running to get it back into an acceptable range of motion and cycling again.

The link you posted is correct for the aluminum manifold your CC has.

Thanks,
Jim

 

Jim... I posted a picture of my manifold a couple of posts back.. I got a complete new manifold 2years ago.. And it is a 2009 Passat TDI 2.0

For the rest taking the motor of is no problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Hello Jim. I have mounted the p2015 fix bracket and mounted on my golf VI 2.0 tdi from 2009 and I still et the mill on and the p2015 code on vcds
Also the voltage from 121 raw 4 si 1.3 to 3.5... What do you think is the problem?
I made a video here:

 

Olteanu,

There are some like you that have not had initial success with clearing the code. We have a secondary line of customer support for such situations which involves us sending an email with things to check. One thing you can do is run basic setting test in VCDS:

 

Please report your high and low voltage readings here in measuring block 121 so we might better diagnose your issue.

Thanks,
Jim

www.dieselgeek.com
www.betelgeek.com

 

Hi there Jim, thank you for fast reply

Here are my voltages
Basic settings 121 test in VCDS for P2015 CR TDI error code
my lowest voltage is 1.216 v
my highest voltage is 3.648 v
And video of basic settings I took:

I also see the same voltages on the
Errors from log file of vcds:

2 Faults Found:
008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 159002 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.14.29
Time: 15:24:07

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Lambda: -7.9 %
Lambda: -11.8 %
Voltage: 1.216 V
Bin. Bits: 10001101

008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 159002 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.14.29
Time: 15:23:55

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Lambda: -7.9 %
Lambda: -11.8 %
Voltage: 3.648 V
Bin. Bits: 10001110

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1

Please report your high and low voltage readings here in measuring block 121 so we might better diagnose your issue.

Thanks,
Jim

www.dieselgeek.com
www.betelgeek.com

 

1.216v at the low end is the highest I've seen by far and indicates something isn't right. Can you remove our P2015 bracket and do the test over and post the results? Posting a video to YouTube isn't really necessary. Just report the numbers here as you did above. I'm guessing that the bracket isn't seated quite correctly.

Thanks,
Jim

 

Hello,
I have 3 months with this code P2015 but till now No solution yet!?
My car was normal till i changed the EGR valve to new original part. After 2 weeks the check engine light ON.
With VCDS testing only one code is P2015.
So i Changed all this parts to new Genuine VW parts= 🤑🤑🤑
*Intake Manifold 03L129711E
*V157 Flap Motor VDO Continental A2C59506246 AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD FLAP ACTUATOR MOTOR
*3 DIESELGEEK (3 parts from internet)
After all this still have the code P2015.
What i do ? i have testing the Flap motor Voltage with VCDS gaves me (1.280V minimum and 3.890V in maximum) this case when the flap motor is plugged on with the intake manifold that is not normal.

When i taking off the flap motor and do a test with VCDS in that case gaves me (0.456V and 4.100V) that seems normal for me.
but when i put it on the intake manifold gaves le the old results (1.280V minimum and 3.890V in maximum) it's really strange for me ?

Really i do not know what to do ?
please guys if you can give advises
thank you
Regards

 

Also, have you swapped your V157 motor from the original motor? Did you try to install the bracket without removing the V157 motor? It looks like the bracket isn't 100% flush with the motor arm from the first video you posted. -Jim

 

Hello Jim, I asked the old owner of the car, he changed the motor of the manifold, he gave me the old original motor, I'm going to try it and let know if it worked