[dieselgeek]

Also, have you swapped your V157 motor from the original motor? Did you try to install the bracket without removing the V157 motor? It looks like the bracket isn't 100% flush with the motor arm from the first video you posted. -Jim

 

[Olteanu Alexandru]

Hello Jim, I asked the old owner of the car, he changed the motor of the manifold, he gave me the old original motor, I'm going to try it and let know if it worked

Also, have you swapped your V157 motor from the original motor? Did you try to install the bracket without removing the V157 motor? It looks like the bracket isn't 100% flush with the motor arm from the first video you posted. -Jim

 

[dieselgeek]

A very high proportion of those cases where the code was not cleared initially was when the customer had replaced their "bad" V157 motor with a used or new one. The motors don't go bad. When the owners put the original stock motor back in with our fix bracket the code magically disappears. I think the replacement motors that people find online are not matched up to the CR 2.0 TDI.

 

[Olteanu Alexandru]

SOLVED:
Thank you Jim

So I contacted the previous owner of the golf and he told me he changed something, but didn't knew what, and he stil had the old piece (manifold motor), so I took it, I changed it, put the bracket and it worked. Thank you Dieselgeek!

A very high proportion of those cases where the code was not cleared initially was when the customer had replaced their "bad" V157 motor with a used or new one. The motors don't go bad. When the owners put the original stock motor back in with our fix bracket the code magically disappears. I think the replacement motors that people find online are not matched up to the CR 2.0 TDI.

 

[dieselgeek]

Excellent! This is just another example of why you should not change the intake motor. We have only seen a few actual cases where a motor was actually bad. For some reason the motors that people buy to fix their "bad" original V157 motor are incompatible with their car's system. I'd love to get your inoperative motor to see why it did not work.

 

[Jayteey]

Right then people, here's my experience with this headache of a code. I have a 2.0 tdi s line 2009 with the aluminium (thankfully) manifold.
After diagnosing, I originally got a p2009 code which was the actuator motor playing up. I bought a new motor from a parts outlet and put it on the car. It got rid of the p2009 code but then gave me 2x p2015 codes (which is how I came to find this forum and thread). So, after finding out that some replacement motors work with the car BUT STILL throw a fault code, I started thinking. First off I put the original motor back on but didn't bolt It down, just left it sat on the manifold so I could see if the arm moves through the windscreen. It didn't. So I leave the engine running, get out and manually move the arm and all of a sudden it jumps into life! Turn the engine off and restart but nothing. Manually moved it again and again it jumped into life. So, I put on the bracket that your man "DIESELGEEK" sells and tried again. This time when I started the engine, the arm moved as it should (on the old motor), so.....
Thinking I'd cracked it, I bolted it all down, started the engine but again the arm was as dead as the proverbial dodo. I tried moving it manually again with a pair of long noses pliers but it just wen back to the off position and did nothing. So, with the engine running I thought "maybe I tightened everything too tight and the arm was binding. I proceeded to loosen the bolts hoping the arm would jump to life but nothing. I took all bolts out (engine still running) and moved the motor and all of a sudden it worked. Bolted it all back down and NOTHING. WTF!!!!!!
So again I unbolted it (with the engine running) but this time I noticed something, because I forgot to unplug it, when I moved the motor and it touched the engine mount that's right next to it, it sparked.....! Again, WTF!!!!!
So, keeping in mind that some replacement parts may not and do not work correctly, I took my old motor apart, took the new motor apart and swapped the black covers over (the bit where all the sensors are, so I now have my old motor with a new sensor on it), went outside and plugged it in (not bolted down) started the car and the arm moved as it should. I got out, touched the motor again against the engine mount and it sparked causing the arm to be non responsive, moved the motor off the engine mount and it sprung back to life......
Next I took the old motor apart again, swapped the sensors back but this time swapped the motors over inside.
Went out, plugged in, started engine, touched the motor the the engine mount and no spark and this time the arm worked as it should!!!
Bolted it all down (with DIESELGEEKS bracket) and everything worked as it should. Deleted all the codes from the computer to remove the MIL light and so far no codes have returned..... touch wood....
So, my advice is don't think that buying a new motor will help because in my case it still threw a fault code EVEN THOUGH it was working as it should. My problem was the motor inside the actuator was shorting out, and after swapping that little motor into the old actuator, everything worked as it should. Hope this helps anyone else and best of luck!

 

[Jayteey]

Abit of an add on, and really sorry I didn't take any pictures, I removed the actuator motor off the car, on the side where the black plastic is there are 5 torx screws. Take those out and remove the black plastic. Don't worry about springs flying everywhere and little bits popping out because there aren't any. Once the black plastic is removed, take the middle cog off and it will reveal a smaller cog attached to a mini electric motor that is bolted down by another two smaller torx screws. This is the motor I'm on about that I swapped. Be sure to take note of which way the motor came out as you don't want to replace it backwards and have it run in the opposite direction as you can easily burn it out. The way I did it was that on one side of the little motor it jays "Johnston" on it and luckily enough the new motor also said the same thing! I don't know why the old one was shorting out or what caused it to do so but that was the problem for me and once that little motor was changed, everything worked as it should.
I don't know why the new actuator module I bought in the first instance kept throwing the p2015 code even though it was working as it should, I couldn't leave it like that because the MIL light on the dash was doing my head in and I couldn't rest until it was off, not only that but it had put the cars computer into emergency mode and the fuel consumption was rediculous. I was lucky to get 31mpg. I've driven the car a short journey (about 5 miles) since I managed to sort out the p2015 code and within that short journey I managed to get the car to return 45mpg, no doubt on a longer journey that will increase to around 50mpg......
I hope this helps some if not many others, I'll be honest I don't think you can buy the little motor separately, so what I did was swap it out of the new module I originally bought, put the new module back together and back in the box and...... you can work the rest out for yourself. I've looked on some "selling sites" for the little electric motor on its own, and although there are some that "look" to be the right size, NONE of them have the positive and negative terminals in the right place, so the only way to do it was to buy a new one and tear it down for parts. A bit unnerving when you've just spent out a decent amount of cash for this module but it's the only way I found to work. If you don't want to "keep" it in the end, go all the way in and swap just the electric motor. If your not at all bothered then just swap the black plastic bits, so to make that clear you'd be putting the black plastic from your original module onto the metal body of the new module and then bolting that on to your car. The bit YOU NEED TO KEEP in both situations is the black plastic bit as that holds the sensors that are coded to your car!!!!
If anyone else experiencing this shorting out and can't fully understand or picture what I'm on about, let me know and I'll go through it with you, and again I was originally getting p2009 (which is a short to ground (hence the spark!!)) but when I changed the motor, I got p2015 codes because the new module wouldn't work with the ecu

 

[dieselgeek]

We'll keep this in mind for the P2009 codes Jaytee. Thanks for the rundown. Solving the P2015 with our fix bracket is easy in comparison.

 

[TDISportAaron]

I am also experiencing this issue on our 58 plate (2008) VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI 170 SE.

Error code details:
Address 01: Engine (CBB) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb
Part No SW: 03L 906 022 HM HW: 03L 906 022 G
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 3074
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWX7Z0H43NS0KP
Coding: 0000172
Shop #: WSC 00434 210 71539
VCID: 77FD0D5706389FA6A59-8022

1 Fault Found:
008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 183076 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 10:57:57

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 897 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Lambda: 11.0 %
Lambda: 1.6 %
Voltage: 0.380 V
Bin. Bits: 00000000

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

This popped up shortly before the holiday season, I cleared the code and for around 200 miles the issue didn't arise again, but a couple of days ago it did, today when driving to work the light went off again, so I suspect this could be the flapper issue starting to occur?
I did as mentioned previously and went to measuring block 121 and looked at the voltage, it was reading 0.380V, when revving the engine this value didn't change.
I then cleared the code and went back in to check, the voltage would then move when applying the accelerator pedal.

I have the aluminium style of intake manifold.

 

[dieselgeek]

Looks like you are the perfect candidate Aaron for a Dieselgeek P2015 fix for the aluminium manifold. It will fix you right up!

Jim Royston
www.dieselgeek.com

 

[TDISportAaron]

Thanks for your confirmation Jim,

Is this normal with regards to what I was seeing with the voltage figures?

 

[dieselgeek]

Yes, .380V is the lower end of the range...Jim

 

[TDISportAaron]

Yes, .380V is the lower end of the range...Jim

So ideally it should always read above that value? The fact that it reads that value (or in other peoples cases lower) shows it is an issue with the manifold flap?

 

[TDISportAaron]

After fitting the part from diesel geek I didn't clear the code as I wanted to see if it went off itself.
I did a scan a few days later and here are the results (what does all this mean? What should I do?):

Friday,10,February,2017,20:03:36:12866
VCDS Version: Release 17.1.3 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64
www.Ross-Tech.com

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.CLB
Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 022 HM HW: 03L 906 022 G
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 3074
Software Coding: 0000172
Work Shop Code: WSC 00434 210 71539
VCID: 77A8E13D63CE609F1C3-8022
4 Faults Found:

008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 15
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 183832 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 17:20:51

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 897 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Lambda: 11.8 %
Lambda: 0.8 %
Voltage: 0.380 V
Bin. Bits: 00000000

009754 - Coolant Pump 2
P261A - 000 - Open circuit - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 62
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 183475 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:27:18

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 897 /min
Speed: 60.0 km/h
Voltage: 14.21 V
Lambda: 95.5 %
Bin. Bits: 10010111
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Temperature: 12.6°C

008198 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2006 - 000 - Stuck Closed - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 9
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 184145 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:10:18

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1173 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 6.7 %
Load: 4.7 %
Lambda: 39.5 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 440.0 mg/str
Temperature: 87.3°C

008196 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2004 - 000 - Stuck Open - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 9
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 184145 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:10:18

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1150 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 6.7 %
Load: 4.7 %
Lambda: 93.9 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 325.0 mg/str
Temperature: 88.2°C


Readiness: 1 4 0 0 0

 

[dieselgeek]

Aaron,

The TDI P2004 and P2006 code relate to the plastic linkage arm being stuck somehow. The linkage arm may have popped off on one or the other balls on the motor arm or butterfly shaft. If you reseat the linkage arm the code will go away. For the P2015 you will need to send us an email to salesatdieslgeekdotcom to get our extended support. Please provide the order name when you email us as we don't have record of selling one of these fixes to a person name Aaron in the U.K.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[TDISportAaron]

Aaron,

The TDI P2004 and P2006 code relate to the plastic linkage arm being stuck somehow. The linkage arm may have popped off on one or the other balls on the motor arm or butterfly shaft. If you reseat the linkage arm the code will go away. For the P2015 you will need to send us an email to salesatdieslgeekdotcom to get our extended support. Please provide the order name when you email us as we don't have record of selling one of these fixes to a person name Aaron in the U.K.

Thanks,
Jim

I put the fault codes down to installation, so cleared them all, for about 100 miles all was good.
Thismorning however the light re-appeared. after performing a scan I received the following codes:


Address 01: Engine (CBB) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb
Part No SW: 03L 906 022 HM HW: 03L 906 022 G
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 3074
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWX7Z0H43NS0KP
Coding: 0000172
Shop #: WSC 00434 210 71539
VCID: 77A8E13D63CE609F1C3-8022

2 Faults Found:
009754 - Coolant Pump 2
P261A - 000 - Open circuit - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 184365 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 17:19:46

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2047 /min
Speed: 42.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.98 V
Lambda: 95.5 %
Bin. Bits: 10011111
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Temperature: 41.4°C

008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 184428 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 16:38:37

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Lambda: 11.8 %
Lambda: 0.8 %
Voltage: 0.380 V
Bin. Bits: 00000000

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0


With regards to the P2015 I actually found someone who had apparently bought the item from you a while ago but never needed to fit it. It came down to price in the end, things are a bit tight here and the postage cost to the UK is what killed it for me.
However.... I notice that the voltage is back down to 0.380V reading.

 

[TDISportAaron]

Upon having a look at the modification today I noticed that the P2015 correction part had twisted - Perhaps this had caused the error code to re-appear!?
I've now put it all back together (while in-situ) but with some thread lock and a crinkle washer. Perhaps the vibrations caused it to work loose?

Do I need to reset this code each time? Or should it clear on its own? - I drove it on a couple of journeys last time and it hadn't reset itself.

I still need to look at the coolant pump issue though.

 

[dieselgeek]

Aaron,

If you have the bracket situated correctly the P2015 code will go away on it's own. I think your check engine light is being caused by the coolant pump fault alone. You need to look at my YouTube video on running "P2015 Basic Settings" in VCDS for the V157 motor since .380v makes me think you have not installed the bracket correctly. Also, I need you to report here whether you installed the bracket without first removing the v157 motor. When you mention "in-situ" it makes me think you have not removed the flapper motor as my P2015 install video shows. This is the source of heartache for both you and us. It is essential to remove the V157 flapper motor for anyone doing this for the first time. I did the procedure in 8 1/2 minutes in the install video so at most it might take the first timer 20 minutes for the whole procedure. Based on a wealth of experience with customers, using locktite and wavy lockwashers are totally unnecessary if installed correctly. Posting a picture of the installed bracket here would also let me see whether it was installed correctly.

As far as shipping is concerned, we ship these to the UK and beyond via USPS for just $4.99. This is just a little more than shipping it to a US address. Just FYI for anyone outside the US else pondering shipping cost.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[TDISportAaron]

Since this second time of fitting the .380v value now sits at around 0.7 (or just below). As it did after I'd done the install the first time, it didn't seem possible to get the install wrong - it was all nice and flush.
The first time I did remove the motor completely to do the fix, this time I simply removed the part as it was all accessible and did it without removing the v157 motor - yes a little more fiddly.

I will do another scan then and see if the P2015 code is still there, does the car need to be driven for a few minutes for this code to go off?
I will take a look at the basic settings video also, try to do the same as in the video and come back with my findings.

I wish I had realised the shipping was just $4.99 - I wish I'd have bought new and direct from you now.

 

[dieselgeek]

Most people see the light go off immediately and almost everyone else sees it go off within 2 days of normal driving, assuming they don't have VCDS to clear the code. The fact that you are now seeing .7v on the low end gives me confidence that you are good to go.

Jim