VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner

21 - 40 of 117 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have recently been through this and found a fix, I made a webpage to outline it. Here ya go

https://sites.google.com/site/p2015fix/home
First time posting. FWIW, this worked for me (brilliant insight by lowvo, BTW). 2009 TDI 86K miles. Intermittent P2015 after a few weeks became solid CEL. Flap motor appeared dead through VCDS but if I held the actuator arm about 30 degrees from resting it would move during VCDS output tests. First loosen flap motor unit for better access to remove arm spring. I used forceps clamped to the spring so I wouldn't lose it. Verified myself.....arm in wrong start position means actuator fails self-test when the car is started hence the instant/persistent CEL. Didn't do any mods relating to e-clip solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thanks so much Guys! I have a 2010 Jetta TDI with a 130K miles. I just had the timing belt done at $1300. Then about a month later I get the check engine light. I take it into the dealer, and they said I needed a while new manifold. It's only a mere $900. After reading this thread, I used some safety wire to bring the arm back a little bit. I start the car and watch as it goes forward where I guess it should be at idle. After 3 times of starting it the check engine light goes out and its back to normal. I did notice after I turn off the key the motor cycles a few times. Is that normal, or did I move the arm to far forward? REVOLUTIONary2B I looked in home depot to do the same thing you did. Where did you find the small wire clips at? Thanks Again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I got them at ACE Hardware, in the hardware section. Open the pic to see the top right corner of the package, which will how everyone what they need.
The motor self-tests/cycles a lot. This is normal, and I would guess it is supposed to prevent sticking.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi folks, new to the forums here...
I just got this code on wife's '09 Jetta (just clicked over 200k miles btw). Anyway, some great info and links here. I pulled off the flap motor and as others here, it will not function on a VCDS test. If I run the test and pry the spring attachment point up, it will cycle on/off, but won't repeat unless slightly pried on again). So, I'm thinking the set-screw mod is in my very near future. The ball/socket part seems fine, it was greased and resisted being pried off.

However, I did want to verify that replacing and motor and/or the "dog bone" (actuator rod) will not fix the issue...the problem is excessive travel of the flaps themselves (i.e. this is why the entire intake manifold gets replaced)? Do I have that right? Thanks much....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Correct. The issue IS excessive travel, not dog bone linkage. Creating your own mechanical stop (either bolt or cable-loop method) is the answer. After taking it all apart and seeing how things work, I don't think it is reasonable or realistic to even suggest the linkage could cause this issue. Even if the linkage were broken, I don't think you would get and out-of-range code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Great news, the set screw/stop fixed my issue. Kudos to everyone who posted various solutions on this.

For the benefit of others, what I did was drill a hole in the boss, and tapped it for a 6-32 machine screw. I also put a nut on it to lock it in place, and to give it a little more strength. There seemed to be quite a bit of pressure/side loading on the screw and I didn't want it to hog out the hole in the aluminum over time.

I also greased the ball with synthetic grease before I put it back together. One other thing I did was to crimp down the motor/sensor side of the spring a little bit, in order to hold it on the pin better. This really helped in reinstalling the spring, as it wouldn't come off that end very easily. That should really help in not losing the spring if I need to remove it in the future as well (hopefully). I used some forceps (hemostats) on the spring when I first removed the motor...it worked like a champ.

Ran the component test successfully, cleared the code, buttoned it up and went for a test drive. Right as rain...

20141110_195554.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Dude, that is AWESOME, I am totally buying one as soon as they are available! Tired of my CEL and I don't want to spend $1100 to get it fixed!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
47 Posts
Did the bolt trick this weekend. I didn't trust my tap or my taping skills, so I added a nylon nut as well. I tried to get away with less length in the adjustment by lobbing off the bolt after the nut. This was not enough adjustment.

I thought it may be a sensor issue, but reading more here suggests mechanically this arm has been allowed to move more than originally designed. I took my housing off the motor and there was what appeared to be carbon-like dust inside. Not sure if that was graphite lube or breakdown of the materials. Seems like the seal was pretty tight.

If you can replace the part for under $200 might be worth it unless you have a mod like Jim's CNC bolt-on. It's such an easy replacement, but the time to mod it my be worth the dough as well as a greater confidence in the solution.

Thanks to all who have shared on this topic. Always nice to DIY.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello,

I have the same problem on a Passat from 2009. I was wondering if your solutions are still on the good track. If yes, please post some pictures so we can figure out how to implement the solution.

Thank you in advance
 

·
Site Sponsor
Joined
·
104 Posts
You can look in VagCom/VCDS to determine how close you are to getting the P2015 fault code. In Measuring Block 121, field 4 you can see the resting voltage going to the V157 flapper motor with the engine off and ignition on. The lowest voltage we have seen thus far consistent with NO check engine light is .380 volts. If you fall below this voltage the field 3 display (Bin. Bits) will go to all zeros and the P2015 code will be set.



When the manifold is new or the Dieselgeek P2015 repair kit is installed the voltage in field 4 is approximately .760:



If anybody gets information that differs from this please post it here.

Jim Royston
www.dieselgeek.com
 

·
Site Sponsor
Joined
·
104 Posts
VW and Audi are covering the replacement of gasoline engine manifolds in many countries. You might check with your local Audi dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks
went today to dealership, after dignosis and some tests, with no cost have to say, told me that might be sporadic failure of potentiometer in manifold i think ??
In case of having to replace anyone have an idea of parts cost for a 2009 Q5 2.0 tfsi quattro?
Regards
 
21 - 40 of 117 Posts
Top