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Discussion Starter #1
Like the title of the thread says, any suggestions or tips? The one thing is that mk4 and mk5 pumpe duse cars are slightly different.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
part 1 is finished, so far, no pics or mk5 specific info. The article is not yet added to the FAQ since it's still in development, see the FAQ to see the rough draft article. Links and pictures will be added later.
 

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Wish I would have seen this post a week ago :) Could have taken some pics for you as I was pulling the BRM apart for the cam job. My kit for the TB came with new studs - although I did not see them referenced in the existing DIY, might be worth a mention. My buddy (VW mechanic) said to replace them - roller and tensioner. The old nuts that you remove from the tensioner and roller and be used to double-nut onto the old studs to back them out of the block. New ones had a touch of blue (medium) loctite on them already......

I noticed that the last guy who had my TB covers off (dealership :-( put the middle cover on wrong - it was not fully seated on the front side - it was sticking out a bit (which makes me wonder how they got the upper cover on correctly) - anyway, maybe a mention in the DIY to make sure that the covers are properly seated nice and square.

I liked the mention of the dimple on the crank pulley - many people would miss that - I knew about it from previous diesels, but many would miss it I'm sure - I'm guessing if you tried hard enough, you could get the balancer back on without lining it up :)

In the DIY, the photo shows an "old school" hex/allen wrench for the tensioner adjustment - I found a short 6mm socket on a 3/8" drive worked very well - the 15mm wrench could still go in there and snug it up prior to final torque setting - once snug enough, it will stay in place while torquing.

One addition for the DIY on adjusting torsion could be that you don't have to remove the entire intercooler hose - just pop off the far end near the intake and you can pull it far enough out of the way (after removing the torx screw on the bracket) to slip a 13mm wrench in there - don't drop it though, or your skid plate catches it for you - I know from experience....then you get the added fun of removing the plate to get your wrench back. This less-intrusive method also proves helpful for those, who like me, had to make more than one attempt to adjust the torsion value.

Love the site - great info, lots of help.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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23,902 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Wish I would have seen this post a week ago :) Could have taken some pics for you as I was pulling the BRM apart for the cam job. My kit for the TB came with new studs - although I did not see them referenced in the existing DIY, might be worth a mention. My buddy (VW mechanic) said to replace them - roller and tensioner. The old nuts that you remove from the tensioner and roller and be used to double-nut onto the old studs to back them out of the block. New ones had a touch of blue (medium) loctite on them already......

I noticed that the last guy who had my TB covers off (dealership :-( put the middle cover on wrong - it was not fully seated on the front side - it was sticking out a bit (which makes me wonder how they got the upper cover on correctly) - anyway, maybe a mention in the DIY to make sure that the covers are properly seated nice and square.

I liked the mention of the dimple on the crank pulley - many people would miss that - I knew about it from previous diesels, but many would miss it I'm sure - I'm guessing if you tried hard enough, you could get the balancer back on without lining it up :)

In the DIY, the photo shows an "old school" hex/allen wrench for the tensioner adjustment - I found a short 6mm socket on a 3/8" drive worked very well - the 15mm wrench could still go in there and snug it up prior to final torque setting - once snug enough, it will stay in place while torquing.

One addition for the DIY on adjusting torsion could be that you don't have to remove the entire intercooler hose - just pop off the far end near the intake and you can pull it far enough out of the way (after removing the torx screw on the bracket) to slip a 13mm wrench in there - don't drop it though, or your skid plate catches it for you - I know from experience....then you get the added fun of removing the plate to get your wrench back. This less-intrusive method also proves helpful for those, who like me, had to make more than one attempt to adjust the torsion value.

Love the site - great info, lots of help.
Feel free to edit the wiki or add your post to the BRM timing belt article.:thumbsup
 
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