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Hello everyone, I am the proud owner of a 2013 TDI Golf and am wondering what oil brand to use? I know it must be VW 507. oil Synthetic.
What is the best brand for the oil filter?

Looking forward to doing most of the maint. required myself with the knowledge here in the forums.

Thanks for your input in advance.
 

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In my area the VW filter was the cheapest. I got mine from the dealer for $11 including tax. My oil fill cap says Castrol right on it.
 

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Become good friends with idparts.com . I've done ALL my maintenance, for 212k miles and going strong. I personally use Liqui Moly, call me silly mostly because it says Made in Germany. Additionally I change my oil via the suction method through the dipstick tube.

If you're new to diesels my recommendation is oil change when the car says (every ~10k miles), then every other oil change replace air, cabin, and fuel filters. Also buy VagCom (Ross Tech)... you'll need this for fuel filter changes at least but will find many more uses for it.
 

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I also use the Liqui Moly Top Tech 4200. I know they say you can go 10k on the oil but I still change mine between 3-5k
 

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You don't really need VCDS for fuel filter changes. If you make the effort to understand what VCDS is telling you, it is for the price the best scan tools you can buy for a Dub. A lot of people will tell you VCDS is a must have, but many times they will not understand it's place in Dub diagnosis.
 

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I also use the Liqui Moly Top Tech 4200. I know they say you can go 10k on the oil but I still change mine between 3-5k
You are needlessly throwing your money away. Oils have changed considerably since the 1960's even though many oil change places still want you to change oil at 3 to 4 K miles because they make more money if you do.
 

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You don't really need VCDS for fuel filter changes. If you make the effort to understand what VCDS is telling you, it is for the price the best scan tools you can buy for a Dub. A lot of people will tell you VCDS is a must have, but many times they will not understand it's place in Dub diagnosis.
While you may get away with a fuel filter change without VCDS, unless you use an alternative priming method you will always RISK damage to your high pressure fuel pump (expensive). Keep in mind, there are two fuel pumps ahead of the HPFP in these cars, a lift pump in the tank and an auxiliary pump in the engine bay. One button click on VCDS and you can turn both these on and hear the fuel prime and air be expelled from the system. Don't put off fuel filter changes either. After 20k miles they are very dirty. If you have half a brain, VCDS is the most convenient and powerful tool you'll have for your VW. A tool is always only as good though as the monkey using it.
 

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You are needlessly throwing your money away. Oils have changed considerably since the 1960's even though many oil change places still want you to change oil at 3 to 4 K miles because they make more money if you do.
That's your opinion and I have mine. I will stick with mine thanks
 

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I won't need to ask because I'm sure you'll tell me. Anyway since this is no longer contributing to the OP I shall concede that your internet wang in the biggest and move on
 

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I won't need to ask because I'm sure you'll tell me. Anyway since this is no longer contributing to the OP I shall concede that your internet wang in the biggest and move on
This is one of those rare cases where I'll invite myself into the fray, while not looking to further inflame the involved temperaments.

When I first got the car I was surprised to see 10k mile/15k km OCI with this car, so I researched on this forum and the tdiclub and bobistheoilguy forums.

Can't find the exact thread, but the primary takeaway was that there are three phases to the 507 oil that makes it ill advised to change oil excessively early.

In a nutshell, the first phase is a detergent phase which cleans away the mineral layer (mostly zinc) that goes down on the metal mating surfaces (cams, bearings, etc). This is the main reason the oil looks dirty so quickly. Second phase is where the oil beds down the new protective mineral layer. Third phase is the main phase where the oil stabilizes and determines the life expectancy for oil change intervals.

Basically, if you change the oil early you risk scrubbing the oil's protective layer off the metal mating surfaces and never allow enough time to bed down the next layer.

I'd recommend a used oil analysis from somewhere like Blackstone Labs to be sure you're not unwittingly doing harm to your engine. These things should be able to last well over 400k, would hate to see a premature failure from trying to be diligent!!!
 

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Regarding Liqui Moly Top Tech 4200, I've been using it for the last ~30k km and next oil change is this weekend or so (depending on how much time I have with all the Christmas visiting/running around). Last oil change was 15k km and change, and it was a bit jarring as the oil was viscous, almost goopy, and was aerated like nothing I've ever seen before. Stupid me, I forgot to take a sample for analysis. When I do my next change I'll take a sample.

For now, I think I'm going to go back to Total Quartz Ineo MC3 5w-30 which always looked stellar and the UOA were fair to good and normalizing. If the Liqui Moly turns out to be better, I'll post here and switch permanently.

The cold weather performance seems similar between the two.

If anyone's really interested, I can make a thread with the used oil analysis reports.
 

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I won't need to ask because I'm sure you'll tell me. Anyway since this is no longer contributing to the OP I shall concede that your internet wang in the biggest and move on
The facts as stated are relevant because it will help the OP perform maintenance that is the best interest of his cars longevity while not performing unnecessary maintenance that might actually be detrimental to long engine life.

More "facts"
This is one of those rare cases where I'll invite myself into the fray, while not looking to further inflame the involved temperaments.

When I first got the car I was surprised to see 10k mile/15k km OCI with this car, so I researched on this forum and the tdiclub and bobistheoilguy forums.

Can't find the exact thread, but the primary takeaway was that there are three phases to the 507 oil that makes it ill advised to change oil excessively early.

In a nutshell, the first phase is a detergent phase which cleans away the mineral layer (mostly zinc) that goes down on the metal mating surfaces (cams, bearings, etc). This is the main reason the oil looks dirty so quickly. Second phase is where the oil beds down the new protective mineral layer. Third phase is the main phase where the oil stabilizes and determines the life expectancy for oil change intervals.

Basically, if you change the oil early you risk scrubbing the oil's protective layer off the metal mating surfaces and never allow enough time to bed down the next layer.

I'd recommend a used oil analysis from somewhere like Blackstone Labs to be sure you're not unwittingly doing harm to your engine. These things should be able to last well over 400k, would hate to see a premature failure from trying to be diligent!!!
 

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I use on Pentosin Super Performance III and a good quality oil filter such as Mann or OEM on both my 09 jetta tdi and 15 golf tdi.
I also agree with Ol'Rattler with changing oil at 10k miles. If your concern about the oil interval change you can get your oil analysis performed by Blackstone Labs and see what their recommendations on the oil.
 
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Hello friend. I have owned since 2002 a VW Beetle TDI 1,9 ALH engine and since 2005 a VW Jetta TDI BRM Engine. This is my advice to you.
With German cars you must by the manual. If the manual say that you must change your oil every 10K Miles you must comply.
If you are not a VW engineer, an auto motor engineer or a petroleum or lubricant engineer your daddy opinion, the mechanic shop opinion, your friends that knows all does not count.
The oil manufacturers affirm that their oil can be replaced every 15K miles but as stated before stick to the manual.
German engines works at very high temperatures because they are designed since the inception to run in their country at full speed ALL the time. Non Stop.
VW recommend oils that meet their standard of heat and they recommend a series of brands or types that meet their requirement if you don’t want to ruin the engine. This is so serious that the VW manual recommends that you carry an extra quart of this oil type if during a trip you happen to need a little topping you don’t put any synthetic oil.
There are in the US market Liqui Molly, Motul, Pentosin and Shell Rotella T-6 ( This MUST be Rotella T-6). Choose W40.
Liqui Molly can be found and foreign or German cars parts dealers. Pentosin and Shell Rotella at Advance Auto Parts.
In the United States a car is driven by average 12.000 miles a year. Even if this type of oil initially looks expensive you can run a VW car for almost a year without replacing oil.
Hope this is of help for you.
Carlos Sevilla.
 
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