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Discussion Starter #1
Used to drive around since end of April on 17in Goal alloy wheels. FYI the wheels are .5 larger than the original wheels (17x7.5 vs 17x7).

Everything was fine until last week on my way to work. It started as a humming sound with small vibrations felt through the steering wheel.

First I thought it was a slow flat tire but tire was fine when I got to work. Drove around in the parking lot to find that when I was turning to the right there was a "clok clok clok" noise but not when I was turning to the left.... So me and my buddy instantaneously thought of a bad cv joint. I parked the car and went to work not before thoroughly "shaking" the wheel in all directions to make sure everything was thight.

The next morning ( I work nights), went home and the noise and vibrations got louder and louder as I was approching my highway exit (30 minutes drive). Just before the exit there was a loud "clunk" followed by a metal grinding noise. I said to myself: that's it the cv joint axel just dropped on the highway....

It turned out I lost a FREEKING WHEEL and it was sitting on the brake disk and caliper at a 45 degrees angle.....I was lucky enough not to see my wheel passing in front of me while I'm pulling over like in those videos you see on YouTube...

In the end I had to put back the original alloys and change the foward left hub/bearing because the circle where the wheel "sits" was not round anymore.

Garage told me front passenger side wheel bolts torque was also found out of specs. First thing I did when I got the car back was to check the torque they put on wheel bolts and I found it at 110 foot-pounds where the owners manual says 88 foot-pounds.

Long story short: my wheels were undertorqued since I install them by myself.... So remember: not 88.....at least 100 to 110 ft/pounds.
 

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My wheel knowledge is obviously lacking, but are the wheels VW? I was thinking you MAY have non "ball" seats (cone etc...) on the rim? That will cause a wheel to loosen.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They seem like original VW but maybe I'm wrong.... maybe someone in the community could tell. If not they're damn fine replicas :(
Bought on Kijiji by the way.
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Anti logical but put anti seize on the threads and the face of the bolt or nut. Lower friction will result in a higher clamping load. Higher clamping load will prevent relative movement which causes bolts/nuts to back out. I use the grey Fel-Pro. I only put it on ALL fasteners on ALL cars I work on for about 30 years. I also design jet engines when I’m not fixing cars. Current ride is 03 Jetta too with 380k miles. Hope this helps. Oh yeah, with the grease use the 88 ft-lb or you might break the bolts/studs when torquing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update:
The internals of my left front wheel hub/bearing is pretty scored and pitted. Could a bad bearing induce so much vibrations and heat on the wheel that the bolts would eventually detorque and fall off?
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