I have a 2006 jetta tdi with 96000 miles on it. I did love it until I went to have the timing belt changed and the mechanic told me that my cam was wore(which I used lubro moly 505 01 5w 30) and that my DMF was starting to go out. I'm so disgusted with vw for putting out a product that needs this much work. If I went to 5w 40 oil do you think I could get by without changing the cam? How about the DMF? If I repair all of this I would sink 4000 to $5000 in it. What would you guys do.
what to do?
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No. The cam won't get better but the thicker oil might make it last longer before it needs replacing. But once the surface is worn it will only get worse and faster.
Is your car a DSG? You risk it damaging the transmission if it splits. Worst case scenario, you're stranded. But you could still put in a used transmission. Regional labor prices vary but the camshaft should be a $1000 repair plus the timing belt, maybe another $1000. That includes parts and labor. The transmission pull should be around $2000 parts and labor plus tax so $4000 for everything sounds pretty reasonable. Someone was selling a new DMF in the classifieds that they weren't using for really cheap. You can put off the DMF later but the timing belt and cam should be done now.
Is your car a DSG? You risk it damaging the transmission if it splits. Worst case scenario, you're stranded. But you could still put in a used transmission. Regional labor prices vary but the camshaft should be a $1000 repair plus the timing belt, maybe another $1000. That includes parts and labor. The transmission pull should be around $2000 parts and labor plus tax so $4000 for everything sounds pretty reasonable. Someone was selling a new DMF in the classifieds that they weren't using for really cheap. You can put off the DMF later but the timing belt and cam should be done now.
Thanks for the advice. I just can't believe would need that much on a car that is worth $9000 to $10000 and only 4.5 years old. Why don't VW man up and take responsibility for this crap they have put out. I know I'll never buy another VW! I have Dodge Cummins with 230,000 miles that have never had any thing done to them. Thats why I bought a tdi.
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It depends on the car's overall condition, options, and how long you plan to keep it. That's just how VWs are...they make nicer cars but IMHO they just aren't as reliable as the most reliable cars. And I don't mean the small stuff like flaking soft touch paint. I'd still rather drive a Jetta TDI over a Honda Civic...it's better in every way.
Are you going to the dealer for this? Can you buy an extended warranty and then stick them with the bill?
Are you going to the dealer for this? Can you buy an extended warranty and then stick them with the bill?
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There are theories that the torque settings from the factory are too tight which is why #1 and 4 wear out first. This is only a theory. The rocker bolts are really what holds the cam in place as the torque is way higher than the little bearing cap bolts. They don't go all the way to the end which may bend the end caps a little. franko6 has guessed that reducing the torque slightly and increasing oiling to the bearing by drilling a hole will eliminate this problem. The learning is being done by trial and error and without any engineering study so any non factory specification or modification you do is at your own risk. Seeing how the bearings all seem to wear out at the same spot and the consistent wear patterns, this theory makes sense to me and if so many cars are having problems than VW's engineers didn't do a good job either. However, I'm not an experienced machinist, engine builder, or engineer so all I can do is pass on their advice. Search the forum for franko6 and send him a PM for his modified caps if you're interested.
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There is actually kits out there that can get your timing belt and your cam done at the same time for around $1000 in parts. Then the DMF can be changed out with a SMF and a better clutch for around $700 in parts. The SMF with better clutch will lat a long time. Timing belt is always going to happen at 80-100K miles (depending on your service interval). The cams do wear out faster on a BRM engine. You would be better putting a BEW cam in there as the profile on the cam isn't as steep so there is less stress and resulting wear. You loose a little torque but you don't have to change the cam as often.
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Welcome to the forum. welcometomyturbodies
Probably not. The cause is poor quality or compound of camshafts. The other thing that doesn't help is the stupid long service intervals 10k and 20k. The will say these modern semi-synthetic motor oils have supposed to improved. Yes but its the same s**t thats pumped around the engine all the time even though its filtered.
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Unlikely a recall but maybe possibly warranty. A recall fixes the problem with a better product. I don't see anything that could make it better. A warranty fixes the issue with the same parts that failed before. Only way I see making a BRM cam better (longer lasting) is install the BEW cam. If you want your torque back then stick a Colt cam in there. The cams are twice as expensive but get about 4 MPG better and about 10 HP. But half the cost of a cam job is just the hardware to install the cam. Also the cam has a 1/3 more wear areas then previous cams since this also drives the injectors. To fit all that on they cut the lobe width down some. The BRM cam has the steeper profiles so it is stressed even more.
As far as oils you need to use the approved oil. I don't have an issue with the 10K service as proper oil sampling will show you that you could likely go farther. Oils degrade from outside things from fuels entering to soot and metals. Some of the metals can be filtered out. Even the soot can be filtered out in a bypass set up (which I have). All those things cause the oils to oxide and break down. Modern engines can handle longer since the engines are tighter they don't allow as much cylinder contaminants into the oils (fuel, soot, gasses). Also the parts are built better to last longer so there isn't as much wear metals in the oil either. The newer oils can also handle higher temps which in the past also caused oil breakdown. Then there is the breathing systems and filters which also have improved to not let outside dirt in. Our older engines on the mine site recommended 250 hour engine oil changes, then some newer ones went to 300 hours and now they are up to 500 hours. We are getting the same or better life as the older engines. Also, other compartments (whether car, truck or mining equipment) have even longer oil change intervals because they don't have things like the combustion chamber throwing new contaminants in each revolution.
The DMF is there to make things quite and smooth that Americans love so much. It absorbs the dieseling of the engine more since the engine is lower RPM at idle it doesn't run as smooth. The DMF absorbs those shocks. The SMF doesn't and it just transfers the energy else where and hence you hear it at idle.
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Sorry I disagree with that statement. Every 4 stroke engine ever made will always have contaminants escaping past the rings thats why the oil goes black in colour.
Thats another point to disagree on but I don't want to offtopic2 the thread to much. Everyone has there own opinions on things.
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