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This is my first post ever in any forum except for my newbie post in the Intro section. So I am open to direction on etiquette and procedures. Ive been lurking in the background for a couple years tho so Im not completely oblivious. To the point:
Ive searched extensively online and in this forum spedifically and cannot find what I need so posting a new thread here but if that is improper I apologize just direct me to the thread I need.

The car: 2006 Jetta TDI 1.9 BRM with Malone Stage 1.5 and EGR cooler delete (but I have NOT had the EGR delete tune uploaded yet, although its not throwing a code.)

The original problem: Actuator failed. I did ALL the tests and isolated the actuator. While I was there I went ahead and disassembled then cleaned the turbo, vanes, intake manifold, and EGR piping (what I didnt blank and delete.)

The original solution: I purchased an official Borg-Warner actuator for a CBEA/CJAA off of ebay for $120 (same EXACT part number as the one that idparts sells) and modified the mounting bracket myself to fit. (The link is dead and ebay states the item is no longer available or I would happily share.)

The current problem: Sh*t dont work. First of all, I have adjusted the actuator rod with a hand vac to open at 3" and stop at 18" vac Ive checked everything else and heres what Ive come up with as the primary issue: With the CJAA actuator installed and connected, the n75 electrical input connector is in a high voltage state, 11.35 v consistently (I know it operates on cycles, bear with me) which is keeping the n75 in a near fully open state resulting in 15" vac constantly applied thru the n75 to the actuator. So even at an idle, 800 rpms or so, I always and immediatly get 15 inches of vac, with no variation based on throttle position. Obviously this isnt correct... right...?

My question: What I have just discovered today after poring through the interwebs AGAIN is somehow I missed a blurb of info at this link:
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vnt-turbo-actuator-testing-and-replacement-mk5-mk6-tdi-engine/
under section "VNT actuator replacement parts" where it states "VW and Borg Warner do not sell any direct fit actuators for BRM engines. However, you can make a custom bracket to use the CBEA/CJAA actuator. It will work fine on a BRM engine but you must have a specific chip tune for it to work like the OEM actuator."
On the idparts website for the CJAA actuator that they sell under FAQ it states: "There is an actuator range test cycle that you can run on VCDS. You will need to run that test and adjust the arm screw on the actuator until it fits within the range." (No disrespect to idparts for quoting them as they have been SUPER helpful with parts.)

So heres all of the background info.

Can someone PLEASE tell me what to do here? How do i reset my actuator range test cycle? Can I set them to OEM specs for the original actuator?

Oh, one more thing, haha funny story, I dont have a VCDS of my own. And because of the extensive-ish reading Ive done here I know more about the VCDS system than my local tech. Basically I need a paint-by-numbers procedure to bring to my tech in order to get my TDI back on the street.

Thank you in advance and thank you all for being my go-to site for the last two years Ive owned and LOVED my TDI.
 

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With the CJAA actuator
CJAA is an engine code.

Manufacturer: VW, Date(s) Used: 06/2009-07/2014, Model: Jetta, Engine Code: CJAA, 103Kw, 140PS, 2.0 Ltr, 4 Cyls, Remarks: Canada ("CDN"), USA ("USA") North American Region (NAR): Turbocharged Direct Injection Common Rail (TDI-CR)

Manufacturer: VW, Date(s) Used: 01/2005-04/2007, Model: Jetta, Engine Code: BRM, 74Kw, 103PS, 1.9 Ltr, 4 Cyls, Remarks: Canada ("CDN"), USA ("USA") North American Region (NAR): Turbocharged Direct Injection Pumpe Düse (TDI-PD) Timing belt

You can search Ross-Tech forum. If you have a genuine VCDS cable that register it online VCDS Dongle Registration then you can join the Ross-Tech forum and post a question about your problems with a full AutoScan attached.
 

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Evermore, did you ever figure out the issue using the 2.0 actuator on the BRM? I installed the id parts 2.0 actuator on a 2006 BRM and I cannot meet the specifications. I did run the charge pressure control test in basic settings. Engine ran up to 1400 rpms and cycled on and off the N75 valve. Off duty cycle was 9.9% and on was 90.3%. I used a multimeter and checked the signal wire voltage (pin 2). Its set at 0.74 volts full vacuum applied with hand pump and no vacuum voltage is a 3.02. The specification I've found online for the 2.0 actuator is 0.65-0.85 vacuum applied lever on stop screw and no vacuum 3.30-3.90 volts. I can only meet one parameter, I cannot set the rod length to achieve both values within range. I already called id parts, some help, but i know more then them at this point. I'm not setting an boost related codes, but graphing actual vs desired boost. Its overboosting at times 400 or 500 mbar at times. Usually lugging around 1700 rpms in 6th (dsg car), the actual boost will be 300-500mbar above desired. Also, if cuise control is set, actual boost will go up around 1800mbar when 1400ish is commanded, then actual will return to desired and will oscillate roughly ever 10 seconds going above desired boost spiking and coming back down to desired boost. I've checked and rechecked N75 valve, vacuum hoses, engine at idle has 25in hg. I have a buddy with a good used factory brm actuator, I'm going to remove the id parts actuator and try the oem actuator.
 
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