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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hi, 'been working away at a few deletes and upgrades to our 2003 Wagon (ALH). i have a cleaned intake and have deleted the EGR and ASV.

with all of that room and before i bolt up the intake and race pipe, i am replacing the stock Garrett VNT15 with the 17 (our 15 calved at 375k km - actuator failed)

two questions, as i wait for PB Blaster to help me out with those exhaust manifold and down pipe nuts :)

1. the VNT15 boost hose headed to the intercooler exits the compressor section differently than for the 17. the 17 boost exit is in-line with the rotational axis of the turbo and not radial like the 15. can i simply slice the 90 off of the boost hose and mate that to the adapter i have ?

2. with the EGR and ASV deletes, i now have a much simpler vacuum hose set-up, but what about the electrical connections to the changeover valve and the EGR solenoid N18 ?

many thanks in advance
K.I.S.S.
 

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no help for the connections although i deleted my egr on tune and just left them in place and non functional. probably should have removed but i wanted to be able to return it to stock. i had to delete mine when the pipes to it started leaking. My ASV is still functional since i feared taking away the runaway protection it might offer. but egr just there but blanked off on both sides and bypassed.
as to the turbo, you should be able to carefully slice off the hose and get it to fit. i did it on my wifes new beetle 50 k ago since there were no upgraded pipes for the beetle without custom assembly. at the time i was already nervous about altering the car and just made the old hose work ( it was my first tdi and turbo and i was nervous) . it ran fine till now. see my other post lol. i have what i think is a boost leak but cant track it down. one of the spots i found bad was that part of the hose i had "trimmed" where it met the clamp. however i used a bad clamp which later perusal of a turbo book has shown me to be the incorrect type. my plan is to eventually redo my boost line with tougher stuff and use a piece set to connect and eliminate all the old boost lines.
you may consider upgrading with some turbo specific bends and joints but the old line lasted 50 k trimmed on mine and may have only failed due to using cheap clamps.
currently i would just be greatful to find the problem on mine which i believe is a leak.
 

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sounds like a bew turbo going on a alh... am i correct? aka smart actuator/boost pipe set up...

no need to plug in smart actuator wires.. thats a bew thing

get a bew 04 jetta lower boost hose between turbo and the pancake pipe...

LAST AND MOST SHITTY PART the power steering line is in the way of the boost pipe... a bew goes 90* straight up to top of shock tower vs a alh that twists and goes by the fram rail.. changing this line is no fun.. but stock is in the way and NOT easy to bend as i tried.. then i put the bew line on..

i put a guys vnt 17 from his 04 bew that got totaled into his 03 alh wagon.. and what i found in the swap.. i had the correct hoses/lines from the totaled car
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks speedy223 and crsmp5… most appreciate your experiences:
- re ASV delete and overspeed: i have an aircraft-style covered switch wired into the cockpit that will shut off the fuel pump (see photo - fuel pump shut-off solenoid just under the banjo bolt)
inj_pump.jpg

- yep, Garrett VNT17 (with the BEW feedback) going into an ALH to replace the stock VNT15,.. so ya, i realize that there's nothing to plug into the actuator feedback connector.
- with the EGR delete, i read elsewhere that the N18 EGR solenoid stays connected electrically, but of course the vac lines are to be plugged
- WHAT ABOUT THE CHANGEOVER VALVE that used to be connected to the ASV ?
- thanks on the suggestion to get a BEW 04 Jetta lower boost hose !!
- re power steering pipe :bangshead
 

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no clue on your deletes... but be wary of capping hoses off.. to cap off the air inlet will prevent the vnt system from working properly... i myself would not worry bout capping them off due to this...

no clue to what asv is or the change over valve

if you decide bend line method.. do not crimp it.. its the return for the power steering rack to bottle so if you make it restrictive it may cause a leak or worse blown rack.. the guy i did it for is kinda anal and would approve my effort to change the line.. :p but completly different in how it routs
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks, crsmp5. ya, i won't mess with the supply side of the vacuum system.
ASV = Anti-Shudder-Valve. It reduces engine shudder on shutdown. The vacuum hoses to the ASV from its change over valve and to the EGR from the N18 solenoid have no where to go when one deletes the ASV and EGR.
again. appreciate the heads up on the power steering return line.
my other anticipated issue is the bracket that supports the turbocharger … got to roll her up on the ramps, remove the Panzer Plate and have a look see from below

intake is off and i made a blanking plate to cover the head; tomorrow the turbo comes off :)
 
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