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Drove from Phoenix to San Diego 2 months ago with AC on high the whole way. Right before getting into SD, driving up from below sea level to over 4000 feet, right before getting to the top of mountain, turbo cut off. I lost like 40-60 % of my power. Was cruising between 80-85 MPH the whole way.
This is the first time this has happened. Got home, used can air to blow out the connection on the MAF, Cleaned MAF with Cleaner spray, let dry and changed the oil. Took the car out, back to normal.So I figured car went into Limp Mode from something overheating ect. But no CEL or fualt codes stored.
Drove out to Phoenix and back again 1 week ago, no issues. 2 Days later while taking my lunch brake at work, I noticed turbo felt like it had no boost. Let the car cool down, drove home from work, no boost. Drove again the next day to work, cycled the ignition over and over, still no full boost.
Had my wife cycle the ignition while I was underneath the car to see if the Actuator was cycling/moving, no movement what so ever. Did a simple Vag-com scan, no fault codes. Unplugged the MAF just to rule that out, no change in turbo boost. I do not have a boost gauge, but the turbo is not whistling like it normally does.
So I either have a bad N75 or Bad Actuator. I don't have a vacuum pump to test vacuums, but will try and pick that up today and hook it up to the hose going into the actuator and see if its rusted stuck. I did lubricate the actuator and manually moved it back and forth, took the car for a spin, still no change.
Car still runs fine, I can drive to 80-85MPH on flat, 70MPH on hills max. It is hard to get to red line in gear. No smoke. Also have Vag-Com that I have done an Auto Scan but no Fault code come up, don't know much about using the software yet.....
Could also be a bad hose, but my gut felling says Actuator or N75. Stock Turbo, Stock Hoses and N75 ect. I do not think car is going into Limp Mode, No fault codes show when scanning Engine when off.
Car is tuned, and when turbo was working normal and driving hard, I blew some black smoke which is normal on my setup, now with the loss of power, no smoke at all. Just wanted to include that.
I also removed the N75, and tested with 12V and some wire, and I do get a clicking sound response from inside, so it seems to be working just fine.
I did noticed when moving the actuator it was pretty hard to get it to move back and forth. How much pressure do you need to apply with your finger to get it to move downward when underneath the vehicle? Also, I blew air in the inlets off all 3 areas on the N75, and it seems to not blocked my any means, some inlets I hear the same noise when I connect 12v to the connector. Normal for N75, but not normal for Actuator?
Since I have a tune and upgraded injectors and blow a little more soot, (I know, I need to get my injectors balanced too) could the soot (black smoke) be clogging my turbo up? I run the car hard, and normally shift over 3K daily to work and back home. Ordered a Mightyvac to test the Actuator next week. Mightyvac will be here by 7th, will update if I need to replace the Actuator.
I tried the Italian tune today. Ran hard high RPMS, nothing. Tried again after lunch, Got my first CEL on 3rd day, low boost to turbo.
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 BD
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G520SG 2507
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
1 Fault Found:
17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation
P1556 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Took the Actuator off. Seems to be in good shape, but is very hard to move the rod back and forth. I ordered a new one today, 2 day air. I figure this stock turbo had almost 200K on it on stock actuator, might as well replace it.
The lever on the turbo that controls the movement of the vanes moves very easy and freely now that I took the Actuator off. So that's a good sign! No issues with sticky vanes. N75 connected to a 12v shows it works properly. But no Vacuum test on hoses till I get my mightyvac. I should have this car back running like she should by the end of the week. Will keep ya posted, any tips would greatly be appreciated!
This is the first time this has happened. Got home, used can air to blow out the connection on the MAF, Cleaned MAF with Cleaner spray, let dry and changed the oil. Took the car out, back to normal.So I figured car went into Limp Mode from something overheating ect. But no CEL or fualt codes stored.
Drove out to Phoenix and back again 1 week ago, no issues. 2 Days later while taking my lunch brake at work, I noticed turbo felt like it had no boost. Let the car cool down, drove home from work, no boost. Drove again the next day to work, cycled the ignition over and over, still no full boost.
Had my wife cycle the ignition while I was underneath the car to see if the Actuator was cycling/moving, no movement what so ever. Did a simple Vag-com scan, no fault codes. Unplugged the MAF just to rule that out, no change in turbo boost. I do not have a boost gauge, but the turbo is not whistling like it normally does.
So I either have a bad N75 or Bad Actuator. I don't have a vacuum pump to test vacuums, but will try and pick that up today and hook it up to the hose going into the actuator and see if its rusted stuck. I did lubricate the actuator and manually moved it back and forth, took the car for a spin, still no change.
Car still runs fine, I can drive to 80-85MPH on flat, 70MPH on hills max. It is hard to get to red line in gear. No smoke. Also have Vag-Com that I have done an Auto Scan but no Fault code come up, don't know much about using the software yet.....
Could also be a bad hose, but my gut felling says Actuator or N75. Stock Turbo, Stock Hoses and N75 ect. I do not think car is going into Limp Mode, No fault codes show when scanning Engine when off.
Car is tuned, and when turbo was working normal and driving hard, I blew some black smoke which is normal on my setup, now with the loss of power, no smoke at all. Just wanted to include that.
I also removed the N75, and tested with 12V and some wire, and I do get a clicking sound response from inside, so it seems to be working just fine.
I did noticed when moving the actuator it was pretty hard to get it to move back and forth. How much pressure do you need to apply with your finger to get it to move downward when underneath the vehicle? Also, I blew air in the inlets off all 3 areas on the N75, and it seems to not blocked my any means, some inlets I hear the same noise when I connect 12v to the connector. Normal for N75, but not normal for Actuator?
Since I have a tune and upgraded injectors and blow a little more soot, (I know, I need to get my injectors balanced too) could the soot (black smoke) be clogging my turbo up? I run the car hard, and normally shift over 3K daily to work and back home. Ordered a Mightyvac to test the Actuator next week. Mightyvac will be here by 7th, will update if I need to replace the Actuator.
I tried the Italian tune today. Ran hard high RPMS, nothing. Tried again after lunch, Got my first CEL on 3rd day, low boost to turbo.
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 BD
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G520SG 2507
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
1 Fault Found:
17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation
P1556 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Took the Actuator off. Seems to be in good shape, but is very hard to move the rod back and forth. I ordered a new one today, 2 day air. I figure this stock turbo had almost 200K on it on stock actuator, might as well replace it.
The lever on the turbo that controls the movement of the vanes moves very easy and freely now that I took the Actuator off. So that's a good sign! No issues with sticky vanes. N75 connected to a 12v shows it works properly. But no Vacuum test on hoses till I get my mightyvac. I should have this car back running like she should by the end of the week. Will keep ya posted, any tips would greatly be appreciated!


