[MAXRPM]

I was driving on the freeway, and I raved up my jetta-alh to 21 psi, boost (VNT-15) it went into a limpmode,,EGT was ok,, Got to shop where they did the aligment, then went back to freeway, car was running great,, all of the sudden, poof, like a grenade (no runnaway) a lot of oil coming from the bottom, shut it off quickly,,at first I thought it was the timing belt,, pulled the timing belt cover off, and it was intact, (I had just changed it 5K ago) , since I do not an egr cooler anymore then as far as I could see to the rear of the engine, there was a lot of oil coming out from there, so my best guess is the turbo,,

Now i just got home an the tow truck brought the car,,, if it is the turbo, like I think it is,, which turbo do you advise me to get? I called Kerma and they sell a hammer head recon-turbo for $1100.00 and they calim is a better turbo then the 17/22,, I know the VNT17/22 is a damn good turbo and TDI parts sells it brand new for$1400.00 (no core),, what do you guys think which way I should route myself to go? as of right now,, I have pp520- RC-3, straight pipes, race pipe, and now if I get the 17/22 i will be forced to get an upgraded inlet turbo hose, like the OMI,, is there any pros or cons by upgrading the turbo?


lastly, is there any write ups to pull the turbo from this forum?, sorry i looked and could not find it,, I am mechanical incline, but i never pulled a turbo, pls advise me, any tips to pull turbo out would be appreciated, any special tools
required?

I know that without your help i would probably not dare to pull the turbo out, but with all the knowledge and advise from all members, this turbo is a cake walk, at least that is what I hope,,

Thanks again and let's go TDIs

 

[Vent5]

Ouch, sorry to hear that...

The only way to make sure is to take off the downpipe and take off the intake piping. You may see oil pooled in there. If thats the case you blew a seal. If the turbo wheel is sideways then the shaft broke.

Kerma's suggestion is right on. First figure out what power level you want, then figure out what mods you need to get there. Don't forget that if you go to even larger injectors to match the turbo you might also want an 11mm pump and bigger intercooler, so budget those too.

To pull the turbo, you just remove the intake, unbolt the exhaust manifold and the oil lines. I think there may be a few support bolts. Sorry to hear that!

 

[Guest]

Sorry dude, talking to Kerma is the best option, they will take care of you, they are very straight forward and will sell you a package instead of piece-piece since chip tuning is a very important part of turbo selection.

Don't forget to get a new oil line! They tend to spin in place and be seized up. Counterholding the union nut does nothing, and even a small bend could equal death for a new turbo, so it's worth it to get a new oil line.

You can remove the turbo from above, since you don't have an EGR cooler, just remove the intake, 3 downpipe bolts, 2 support bolts I think, and exhaust mani. An allen wrench or socket should do the trick fine. Make sure to squirt the bolts and let soak with PB Blaster to loosen them up before trying to remove htem.

 

[MAXRPM]

Oh man, thank you for the advise,,I just crawled from underneath my Jetta, and man did i almost cry,, I got all kind of pcs. on the belly pan, I looked and looked and found a hole on the side of the block, right in font of the oil cooler, by looking at the pcs. I saw many them with glue what appeared to be JB-weld,

What hurts me the most is that ever since I bought the car about 1 1/2 year ago from this guy in Nevada, i have been underneath the car upgrading it, most of the time,,, I asked the guy that sold me the Jetta about the oil pan that at the time it looked new, he said that the oil pan gasket was leaking and he decided to replace the gasket and the oil pan,, and now the engine is gone,, some people thrive ripping off people and enjoy doing that, that is ok , I will find a way to bounce back somehow, now I do not know what to do next,,I have to make a decision by next week, Thanks guys appreciated big time.. and if you ever purchase a used car be carful, I am learning that lesson right now..

 

[chittychittybangbang]

I would go with this:

http://www.kermatdi.com/servlet/-strse-26/-dsh-PD150-turbo-VNT-dsh-17-%28upgrade/Detail

with a larger intercooler. That should suit your needs pretty well.
The exhaust manifold is nuts, the intake is allen bolts.

1 support bolt that holds the block-turbo support bracket. Also the oil return line. I agree on the turbo supply line, plan on replacing it. I would rate it as medium, if you can remove the intake than you can remove the turbo.

Edit: if your tdiclub name is what I think it is, then your engine is done....bummer, I am sorry! I don't see how JB weld could hold the block...the block is cast iron and I would not try to repair it.

Do you have another car? If you plan on doing work on the car, be prepared for a lot of down time when you take into account delays. Since this is going to be an engine pull, I would look at a complete change in your setup. New short block, big turbo, kerma's cast iron manifolds, big nozzles, 11mm pump with electric lift pump, and big intercooler.

If you just want to get it working, a used block is a good choice, it should cost under $3000. Pull the engine and sell off the spare parts to make up the difference. Obviously, I would replace the timing belt and gaskets on the engine and maybe put on a new clutch/pressure plate/flywheel to account for any future mods.

You'd be surprised how easy a TDI engine pull is, but the main issue is that you need another car and a space to work. The 4 cylinder engine bay is pretty roomy and there aren't any major obstacles that I can think of. It is however, very time consuming.

 

[MAXRPM]

[1 support bolt that holds the block-turbo support bracket. Also the oil return line. I agree on the turbo supply line, plan on replacing it. I would rate it as medium, if you can remove the intake than you can remove the turbo.

Edit: if your tdiclub name is what I think it is, then your engine is done....bummer, I am sorry! I don't see how JB weld could hold the block...the block is cast iron and I would not try to repair it.

Do you have another car?



Yes I happen to have another car and it is a TDI and the big boss from my house (She)drives that car,, yes I am in the TDI club too, and also posted what happened to me today there,, I have some of the pcs. with me right now and I am going to take some pics. tomorrow, I do not know if icould post them here. I have never posted any pics in this forum, or in any forum, 1 of the pcs, has what appear to me to be JB-weld or somthing similar, but I will bring that pc. to a mechanic so he could confirm that to me.


I do not now, if all engine blocks from cars and trucks are cast Iron, but I knew this guy that he used to drive a big rig, long time ago, the engine was a big cam 350 cummins, he had a crack in the engine block, and he would use JB-weld to fix it temporarily, like every other month, he would scrape it off then he would apply JB-weld again, so it would not leak oil,, I saw him many times doing that and he used to say to me, it is a temporary fix.,, that is why by looking at that pc,now with my eyes, it looks to me like it is JB weld or something related to that.

what I am trying to convey here is that I DO NOT plan to use that method to fix my TDI,I know my engine is toast and if I am going to fix it, I am going to do it right,,

but thanks to chittybanbang and the rest of the gang for all the replies to this and I would looking forward to make the right decision about my TDI, but if any of you know an engine out there of a car that has crashed or tipped over, please let me know, happy TDing.

 

[JohnPk]

Sorry to hear about that, I think the TDI engine is cast iron, have you tried

http://www.car-part.com/ ?

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Most turbo engines are cast iron. Most engines have aluminum heads.

Some engines have aluminum blocks or magnesium blocks, even some turbo engines are aluminum but I'm pretty sure that all TDI blocks are cast iron.


Also, i did a quick search and it's possible to weld the block BUT it requires engine disassembly, you are basically looking at a full rebuild. Not worth it at all. The sorts of repairs that you can make to a cast iron block are economical only on industrial equipment and the sort.