Hi,
my name is Per and I live in Norway. I bought my very first car in May 2010. It was an Audi A3 1.9 TDI 2000 (8L / ALH) 90 HP (114 HP after remap) with the VNT15 turbo. It had about 138000km (85000 miles) when I purched it. Now it has about 155000 km on it.
This is how my engine bay look like:
![]()
I think I have a major maintence service coming up. My Haynes 'Service and repair manual' states that timeing belt and tensioner should be replaced every 90000km for 2000 and 2001 models. The first timeingbelt was changed at 83455km, and makes the next one on about 175000km. At this rate I'm probably going to do it my self.
--------------------
'Important history':
dd/mm/yy
--------------------
04.06.07
Remap from 90 HK (210Nm) to 124 HP (270 Nm).
Garage: Calls it 'Software'
--------------------
11.02.08 111181km
Garage: Changed clutch kit
Remarks from mechanic:
1: Clutch plate was the wrong way.
2: Missing bolt in brakkett for the turbo, new bolt inserted.
--------------------
The engine performance was kind of wierd. I thought it was due to the remap.
Symptons was low performance from 1100 -> 2300 rpm, suddently lots of torq from 2300 -> 3300 rpm and almost dead from 3300 -> 3700. The car wouldnt rev past 3700-4000 rpm.
In June/August 2010 i suddently lost the 'turbo' passing a car in a uphill part of a motorway. This happened a couple of times and the common nominator was that always happened when the weather was really warm and at full throttle.
Im no car guy, so a co-worker read the fault codes:
- Changed dieselfilter, oil, oil filter and airfilter. No change. Checked that the incomming air wasnt blocked off somewhere.
- Checked and changed almost all the vacuum lines and the N75 (charge pressure control) valve. Not really any preformance gain, but I couldnt reproduce limpmode/faultcode again. Therefor I thought that the problem was fixed.
About a month later the same thing happend again. After some more reading I was down to turbo/actuator or the MAF. MAF was tested with a china-wagcom, which showed reading up to 700-750 (mg/str) while doing the '3. gear test'. Since i read somewhere that bad MAF's wouldn't do more then 550 (mg/str), I thought that it would be fine. In retrospect I should have seen that this dosnt apply when you get huge MAF (turbo pressure?) spike of almost 2500 mbar in stead of 2000 mbar.
RPM/MAF/MAP:
![]()
RPM/MAF/MAP/IQ:
![]()
RPM/MAP/DcycleMAP:
![]()
When I tried to move the turbo actuator, I could almost not move it at all. I crossed my fingers and hoped it was 'only' the actuator, but sadly it wasnt. The VNT leaver on the turbo was almost completly stuck. WD40 and penetratingoil didnt bring it back to life. Turbo was detached from the engine (of course the dam oil line was stuck and was twisted while I removed it).
This is my old actuator (full of rust), but it does move:
![]()
Her im desperately trying to exercise the actuator back into shape:
![]()
Splitted the turbo in half and layed the half with the integrated exaust manifold in diesel for 2 days. This was really enough, since the leaver came back to life. But I didnt want to take any chances, so I also cleaned the VNT mechanism with a old toothbrush. I didnt take the turbo any more apart.
Left ('OUT')
![]()
Left closeup:
![]()
VNT15 w/exhaust manifold:
![]()
Right ('INPUT'):
![]()
Right closeup:
![]()
VNT mechanism after 2 days of soaking in diesel and toothbrush cleaning:
![]()
EGR and intakemanifoild was also cleaned. It wasnt to bad, but hers how the EGR looked:
![]()
![]()
![]()
The last bolt that connect the air input manifoil to the engineblock snapped. It was the one to the upper right. I havent done anything about this yet. It will be replaced when I change the actuator.
After reasemble the car had more response in the low rpm's, but now it kind of lost a lot of the torq in the end of the mid range, and stil not able to rev past 3700-4000 rpm.
Since it was much better I kind of let it lay, since I dont want to work on the car in the cold Norwegian winther.
I recently ordered a new actuator from some cheap site, they also had a MAF that was cheap. Since the freight and tax (25% for Norway) would cost more then the item, I also ordered a MAF.
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/06A906461MAF.htm (MAF)
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/VNT15Actuator.htm (Actuator)
I installed the new MAF, and now the car revs all the way to the red line. The actuator was out-of-stock, but is on its way now.
My old actuator looks a lot like the one in movie #3 on this page: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/VNT-wastegate-adjust.htm. Im hopeing that I can reclaim even more horses when I change the actuator :nana2:
Old pars was (the MAF-can):
Bosch: 0 280 217 121
VW: 06A 906 461
Audi: 1J0 129 574 AG (02/02/00 50)
Actual sensor inside of the 'MAF-can':
F 00C 2G2 027 (081 17 1C)
The EGR system sucks. Its tempting to block this off. I used a golf peg and jammed it into the vacuumline. This works greate and dosnt produce any check engine lights. The downside to this is that the car dosnt get warm in the winther. In -20 degrees celcius (-4 F) I drove with a thick jacket, gloves and a cap. My work is a 30 minuts drive in 90 km/h, and the engine bearly reaches its optimal operating temperature (90 degrees?) before I reach my workplace. EGR seems to be woking:
![]()
Some questions:
- Any suggestions on what else I can do to round up 'escaped' horses?
- When I look for replacement parts, i almost never see 'Audi A3'. Is this car called something else in the EU/US (seems like the parts are listed as Beetle/Golf/Jetta ALH)?
- Oil consumption seems to be a bit high? Cant find any leaks, but Im guessign that the oil disapears trough the CCV (Crankcace Vent?) since there was a thin layer of oil on all tubing from after the CCV.
I did the oil change on about 144000km, this makes this oil about 11000km 'old'. I have refilled about 1 liter of oil at this point. Planned to do the changes about every 15000km.
- The MAP specified is 2000 mbar. Isnt this a bit high for the VNT15? Actual MAP peaked at almost 2500 mbar with the stuck VNT mekanisme! Since the china-vagcom died on me, I havent tested to see what the new valvues are after my 'repairs'. Hopefully this didnt shorten the lifetime of the turbo to much.
- Do anyone know a nice kit to make the car keyless (open lock by remote)?
- How can I find out what type of chip/remap that was done? Do they replace the ECU, or do they just adjust the paramters in the ECU? How about 'update' to the ECU?
This thread was made to get access to the rest/exclusive part of:
- Adjustments when I get the new VNT actuator:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f21/vnt-turbo-actuator-adjustment-part-2-a-3016/
my name is Per and I live in Norway. I bought my very first car in May 2010. It was an Audi A3 1.9 TDI 2000 (8L / ALH) 90 HP (114 HP after remap) with the VNT15 turbo. It had about 138000km (85000 miles) when I purched it. Now it has about 155000 km on it.
This is how my engine bay look like:
I think I have a major maintence service coming up. My Haynes 'Service and repair manual' states that timeing belt and tensioner should be replaced every 90000km for 2000 and 2001 models. The first timeingbelt was changed at 83455km, and makes the next one on about 175000km. At this rate I'm probably going to do it my self.
--------------------
'Important history':
dd/mm/yy
--------------------
04.06.07
Remap from 90 HK (210Nm) to 124 HP (270 Nm).
Garage: Calls it 'Software'
--------------------
11.02.08 111181km
Garage: Changed clutch kit
Remarks from mechanic:
1: Clutch plate was the wrong way.
2: Missing bolt in brakkett for the turbo, new bolt inserted.
--------------------
The engine performance was kind of wierd. I thought it was due to the remap.
Symptons was low performance from 1100 -> 2300 rpm, suddently lots of torq from 2300 -> 3300 rpm and almost dead from 3300 -> 3700. The car wouldnt rev past 3700-4000 rpm.
In June/August 2010 i suddently lost the 'turbo' passing a car in a uphill part of a motorway. This happened a couple of times and the common nominator was that always happened when the weather was really warm and at full throttle.
Im no car guy, so a co-worker read the fault codes:
HTML:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wednesday,04,August,2010,01:44:23:13446
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.0
Data version: 20100630
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 57 75 76
Mileage: 143490km/89160miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl <--- Is says AGR, but my engine is ALH. Should I worry?
Part No: 038 906 012 C
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 2803
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 06435
VCID: 102441C77A0B
1 Fault Found:
17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation
P1556 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Changed dieselfilter, oil, oil filter and airfilter. No change. Checked that the incomming air wasnt blocked off somewhere.
- Checked and changed almost all the vacuum lines and the N75 (charge pressure control) valve. Not really any preformance gain, but I couldnt reproduce limpmode/faultcode again. Therefor I thought that the problem was fixed.
About a month later the same thing happend again. After some more reading I was down to turbo/actuator or the MAF. MAF was tested with a china-wagcom, which showed reading up to 700-750 (mg/str) while doing the '3. gear test'. Since i read somewhere that bad MAF's wouldn't do more then 550 (mg/str), I thought that it would be fine. In retrospect I should have seen that this dosnt apply when you get huge MAF (turbo pressure?) spike of almost 2500 mbar in stead of 2000 mbar.
RPM/MAF/MAP:
RPM/MAF/MAP/IQ:
RPM/MAP/DcycleMAP:
When I tried to move the turbo actuator, I could almost not move it at all. I crossed my fingers and hoped it was 'only' the actuator, but sadly it wasnt. The VNT leaver on the turbo was almost completly stuck. WD40 and penetratingoil didnt bring it back to life. Turbo was detached from the engine (of course the dam oil line was stuck and was twisted while I removed it).
This is my old actuator (full of rust), but it does move:
Her im desperately trying to exercise the actuator back into shape:
Splitted the turbo in half and layed the half with the integrated exaust manifold in diesel for 2 days. This was really enough, since the leaver came back to life. But I didnt want to take any chances, so I also cleaned the VNT mechanism with a old toothbrush. I didnt take the turbo any more apart.
Left ('OUT')
Left closeup:
VNT15 w/exhaust manifold:
Right ('INPUT'):
Right closeup:
VNT mechanism after 2 days of soaking in diesel and toothbrush cleaning:
EGR and intakemanifoild was also cleaned. It wasnt to bad, but hers how the EGR looked:
The last bolt that connect the air input manifoil to the engineblock snapped. It was the one to the upper right. I havent done anything about this yet. It will be replaced when I change the actuator.
After reasemble the car had more response in the low rpm's, but now it kind of lost a lot of the torq in the end of the mid range, and stil not able to rev past 3700-4000 rpm.
Since it was much better I kind of let it lay, since I dont want to work on the car in the cold Norwegian winther.
I recently ordered a new actuator from some cheap site, they also had a MAF that was cheap. Since the freight and tax (25% for Norway) would cost more then the item, I also ordered a MAF.
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/06A906461MAF.htm (MAF)
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/VNT15Actuator.htm (Actuator)
I installed the new MAF, and now the car revs all the way to the red line. The actuator was out-of-stock, but is on its way now.
My old actuator looks a lot like the one in movie #3 on this page: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/VNT-wastegate-adjust.htm. Im hopeing that I can reclaim even more horses when I change the actuator :nana2:
Old pars was (the MAF-can):
Bosch: 0 280 217 121
VW: 06A 906 461
Audi: 1J0 129 574 AG (02/02/00 50)
Actual sensor inside of the 'MAF-can':
F 00C 2G2 027 (081 17 1C)
The EGR system sucks. Its tempting to block this off. I used a golf peg and jammed it into the vacuumline. This works greate and dosnt produce any check engine lights. The downside to this is that the car dosnt get warm in the winther. In -20 degrees celcius (-4 F) I drove with a thick jacket, gloves and a cap. My work is a 30 minuts drive in 90 km/h, and the engine bearly reaches its optimal operating temperature (90 degrees?) before I reach my workplace. EGR seems to be woking:
Some questions:
- Any suggestions on what else I can do to round up 'escaped' horses?
- When I look for replacement parts, i almost never see 'Audi A3'. Is this car called something else in the EU/US (seems like the parts are listed as Beetle/Golf/Jetta ALH)?
- Oil consumption seems to be a bit high? Cant find any leaks, but Im guessign that the oil disapears trough the CCV (Crankcace Vent?) since there was a thin layer of oil on all tubing from after the CCV.
I did the oil change on about 144000km, this makes this oil about 11000km 'old'. I have refilled about 1 liter of oil at this point. Planned to do the changes about every 15000km.
- The MAP specified is 2000 mbar. Isnt this a bit high for the VNT15? Actual MAP peaked at almost 2500 mbar with the stuck VNT mekanisme! Since the china-vagcom died on me, I havent tested to see what the new valvues are after my 'repairs'. Hopefully this didnt shorten the lifetime of the turbo to much.
- Do anyone know a nice kit to make the car keyless (open lock by remote)?
- How can I find out what type of chip/remap that was done? Do they replace the ECU, or do they just adjust the paramters in the ECU? How about 'update' to the ECU?
This thread was made to get access to the rest/exclusive part of:
- Adjustments when I get the new VNT actuator:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f21/vnt-turbo-actuator-adjustment-part-2-a-3016/
