VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Hi,
my name is Per and I live in Norway. I bought my very first car in May 2010. It was an Audi A3 1.9 TDI 2000 (8L / ALH) 90 HP (114 HP after remap) with the VNT15 turbo. It had about 138000km (85000 miles) when I purched it. Now it has about 155000 km on it.

This is how my engine bay look like:


I think I have a major maintence service coming up. My Haynes 'Service and repair manual' states that timeing belt and tensioner should be replaced every 90000km for 2000 and 2001 models. The first timeingbelt was changed at 83455km, and makes the next one on about 175000km. At this rate I'm probably going to do it my self.

--------------------
'Important history':
dd/mm/yy
--------------------
04.06.07
Remap from 90 HK (210Nm) to 124 HP (270 Nm).
Garage: Calls it 'Software'
--------------------
11.02.08 111181km
Garage: Changed clutch kit
Remarks from mechanic:
1: Clutch plate was the wrong way.
2: Missing bolt in brakkett for the turbo, new bolt inserted.
--------------------

The engine performance was kind of wierd. I thought it was due to the remap.
Symptons was low performance from 1100 -> 2300 rpm, suddently lots of torq from 2300 -> 3300 rpm and almost dead from 3300 -> 3700. The car wouldnt rev past 3700-4000 rpm.

In June/August 2010 i suddently lost the 'turbo' passing a car in a uphill part of a motorway. This happened a couple of times and the common nominator was that always happened when the weather was really warm and at full throttle.

Im no car guy, so a co-worker read the fault codes:
HTML:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wednesday,04,August,2010,01:44:23:13446
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.0
Data version: 20100630
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 57 75 76
   Mileage: 143490km/89160miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl <--- Is says AGR, but my engine is ALH. Should I worry?
   Part No: 038 906 012 C
   Component:  1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG  2803  
   Coding: 00002
   Shop #: WSC 06435  
   VCID: 102441C77A0B

1 Fault Found:
17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation 
            P1556 - 35-10 -  -  - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

- Changed dieselfilter, oil, oil filter and airfilter. No change. Checked that the incomming air wasnt blocked off somewhere.
- Checked and changed almost all the vacuum lines and the N75 (charge pressure control) valve. Not really any preformance gain, but I couldnt reproduce limpmode/faultcode again. Therefor I thought that the problem was fixed.


About a month later the same thing happend again. After some more reading I was down to turbo/actuator or the MAF. MAF was tested with a china-wagcom, which showed reading up to 700-750 (mg/str) while doing the '3. gear test'. Since i read somewhere that bad MAF's wouldn't do more then 550 (mg/str), I thought that it would be fine. In retrospect I should have seen that this dosnt apply when you get huge MAF (turbo pressure?) spike of almost 2500 mbar in stead of 2000 mbar.

RPM/MAF/MAP:


RPM/MAF/MAP/IQ:


RPM/MAP/DcycleMAP:


When I tried to move the turbo actuator, I could almost not move it at all. I crossed my fingers and hoped it was 'only' the actuator, but sadly it wasnt. The VNT leaver on the turbo was almost completly stuck. WD40 and penetratingoil didnt bring it back to life. Turbo was detached from the engine (of course the dam oil line was stuck and was twisted while I removed it).

This is my old actuator (full of rust), but it does move:


Her im desperately trying to exercise the actuator back into shape:


Splitted the turbo in half and layed the half with the integrated exaust manifold in diesel for 2 days. This was really enough, since the leaver came back to life. But I didnt want to take any chances, so I also cleaned the VNT mechanism with a old toothbrush. I didnt take the turbo any more apart.

Left ('OUT')


Left closeup:


VNT15 w/exhaust manifold:


Right ('INPUT'):


Right closeup:


VNT mechanism after 2 days of soaking in diesel and toothbrush cleaning:



EGR and intakemanifoild was also cleaned. It wasnt to bad, but hers how the EGR looked:




The last bolt that connect the air input manifoil to the engineblock snapped. It was the one to the upper right. I havent done anything about this yet. It will be replaced when I change the actuator.
After reasemble the car had more response in the low rpm's, but now it kind of lost a lot of the torq in the end of the mid range, and stil not able to rev past 3700-4000 rpm.

Since it was much better I kind of let it lay, since I dont want to work on the car in the cold Norwegian winther.

I recently ordered a new actuator from some cheap site, they also had a MAF that was cheap. Since the freight and tax (25% for Norway) would cost more then the item, I also ordered a MAF.
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/06A906461MAF.htm (MAF)
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/VNT15Actuator.htm (Actuator)

I installed the new MAF, and now the car revs all the way to the red line. The actuator was out-of-stock, but is on its way now.
My old actuator looks a lot like the one in movie #3 on this page: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/VNT-wastegate-adjust.htm. Im hopeing that I can reclaim even more horses when I change the actuator :nana2:

Old pars was (the MAF-can):
Bosch: 0 280 217 121
VW: 06A 906 461
Audi: 1J0 129 574 AG (02/02/00 50)

Actual sensor inside of the 'MAF-can':
F 00C 2G2 027 (081 17 1C)


The EGR system sucks. Its tempting to block this off. I used a golf peg and jammed it into the vacuumline. This works greate and dosnt produce any check engine lights. The downside to this is that the car dosnt get warm in the winther. In -20 degrees celcius (-4 F) I drove with a thick jacket, gloves and a cap. My work is a 30 minuts drive in 90 km/h, and the engine bearly reaches its optimal operating temperature (90 degrees?) before I reach my workplace. EGR seems to be woking:


Some questions:
- Any suggestions on what else I can do to round up 'escaped' horses?

- When I look for replacement parts, i almost never see 'Audi A3'. Is this car called something else in the EU/US (seems like the parts are listed as Beetle/Golf/Jetta ALH)?

- Oil consumption seems to be a bit high? Cant find any leaks, but Im guessign that the oil disapears trough the CCV (Crankcace Vent?) since there was a thin layer of oil on all tubing from after the CCV.
I did the oil change on about 144000km, this makes this oil about 11000km 'old'. I have refilled about 1 liter of oil at this point. Planned to do the changes about every 15000km.

- The MAP specified is 2000 mbar. Isnt this a bit high for the VNT15? Actual MAP peaked at almost 2500 mbar with the stuck VNT mekanisme! Since the china-vagcom died on me, I havent tested to see what the new valvues are after my 'repairs'. Hopefully this didnt shorten the lifetime of the turbo to much.

- Do anyone know a nice kit to make the car keyless (open lock by remote)?

- How can I find out what type of chip/remap that was done? Do they replace the ECU, or do they just adjust the paramters in the ECU? How about 'update' to the ECU?




This thread was made to get access to the rest/exclusive part of:

- Adjustments when I get the new VNT actuator:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f21/vnt-turbo-actuator-adjustment-part-2-a-3016/
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
Wow, what detail, it's really helpful! First, hans diesel parts is a seller of known low quality parts. I would be suspicious of anything that that vendor sells. He has a bunch of clone websites to spam search results.

for replacement parts, use ALH engine Beetle/Golf/Jetta. They use the same exact ALH engine as you.

You have a chip so the MAP specified can be off. Some chips tweak this setting in their tune. For a model year 2000 they might put a physical chip inside the ECU or retune it. Newer year models they can just retune it.

Your Audi does not have a keyless entry? I thought this was a standard feature by then. If not, I would think it's difficult but I don't know for sure.

Also, post moved to mk4 section since it's the same as those cars.
welcometomyturbodies
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,942 Posts
You must have remote locking on that car surely, I have the Seat Cordoba of the same age and it has it and your car is posher than mine lol:D

That is a very detailed post though, some of the ecu's from that age just take a straight map but others like mine are awkward and require a chip, I got round this by installing bigger nozzles instead, I get a very noticable gain. You need to use vagcom/vcds or sometimes there's a label on the ecu which tells you the model/type, mines a msa15, I'd be interested to know what ecu you have.

As for your wierd power, I had this sort of thing before I ended up with limp mode, the turbo would just come and go as I was accelerating but I took it all apart and cleaned it all, I also replaced all the vacuum lines regardless of how they looked and thatb seems to have cured my car but I have awastegate turbo so it's a bit easier to sort out.:)

welcometomyturbodies
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
It was supposed to be an introduction thread. I wanted to see tips about replacing/adusting the new actuator. Guess it grew out of proportions when I started to add picures from my phone :D

In reguards to 'Hans' I would say that I wouldnt but something important for there, at least someting that requires hours to change. If the MAF breaks, I can stil swap my old back in minutes. The same for the actuator.

My problem is that many sites dosnt ship to Norway. The few that does isnt cheap. Often the shipping is more then the parts. If the parts cost over 200 NOK (about 35$) then you have to pay 25% tax on the total price (price of part + shipping).

When I get my new china-cable, I will make some more graphs to see how the MAF/MAP is doing.

---- Edit ----
The car has 'central locking'. And two ordenery keys. I guess theres a RFID chip inside, since I get the 'yellow car + yellow key' light when I turn the key to ON.

This is only the picture of one of them, since the other one is at my parents house. Both are 'near' identical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
No luck on having the remote locking pump

You must have remote locking on that car surely, I have the Seat Cordoba of the same age and it has it and your car is posher than mine lol:D

That is a very detailed post though, some of the ecu's from that age just take a straight map but others like mine are awkward and require a chip, I got round this by installing bigger nozzles instead, I get a very noticable gain. You need to use vagcom/vcds or sometimes there's a label on the ecu which tells you the model/type, mines a msa15, I'd be interested to know what ecu you have.

As for your wierd power, I had this sort of thing before I ended up with limp mode, the turbo would just come and go as I was accelerating but I took it all apart and cleaned it all, I also replaced all the vacuum lines regardless of how they looked and thatb seems to have cured my car but I have awastegate turbo so it's a bit easier to sort out.:)

welcometomyturbodies
Guess the first owner was a cheap'o that didnt want to pay for anything extra. I'm now pretty sure that my car dosnt have remote locking.

I opened the booth and got a hold of the 'locking pump'. Its location was behide the left panel, at the bottom against the back brakelight. It was wrapped in some kind of foam and was secured by a strip tie Even though my pump only has central locking, you also have version with alarm and remote locking.
My pump is: '8L0 862 257 L / 8L0862257L' (you can get this partnumber with vagcom / vcds):

HTML:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks        Labels: 8D0-862-257.lbl
   Part No: 8L0 862 257 L
   Component: ZV-Pumpe            D11  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 06435  
   VCID: 3E78CF7F101F

End   ---------------------------------------------------------------------
This site list it as only central locking. It also list a lot of other pumps. Hope this helps someone else in my shoes. You might be so lucky that you have the right pump!
http://www.digakom.com/katalog.php?TYP_SORT=A&KAT_SORT=8L0%85

Now I have to decide if I want to change the locking pump with one that has remote locking (and alarm?) OR just buy an universal remote locking kit. :dunno

--- Edit: ---




Etka list 8L0 862 257 L / 8L0862257L as dropped with 'please use 8L0 862 257 G / 8L0862257G as replacement'. This pump has RF and alarm. Hopefully you can enable those functions with some ECU 'adjustments' :laugh:
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top