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I added some alternative brands of penetrating oil. I use PB Blaster because it comes in a spray can. I heard about ATF-Acetone so I did some more research and added some more info on penetrating oils to the basic mechanic's tips article:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/auto-mechanics-tips.htm . Other tips on freeing stuck bolts inside.

In doing research, I found that almost every internet reference to this test passed on incorrect information. Only 2 sources had the correct information, 1 of which was from the author - so I consider my info correct.

Other brands of penetrating lubricant or a homemade mix - Machinist's workshop magazine did a test of loosening rusty pins with penetrating oil in April 2007. The results are below. Each pin was electrolytically rusted into a hole. If you search the internet, you'll see references to this rusty bolt test, the test was actually done with pins stuck in holes, not bolts. The difference is that a pin has a lot less surface area to penetrate than bolt threads. In addition, the table shows Power steering fluid-Acetone instead of ATF-Acetone because PS fluid was used. Although an ATF mixture works, the author of the test actually used PS fluid (they are similar). Most websites also spread these errors, the table below is correct. The author answered questions about this article and corrected the typo here: homemachinest bulletin board.
Because of these differences, I find that PB Blaster works better than the other brands of penetrating oil and eats rust. I haven't tried ATF-Acetone but I hear it works great and is cheap too. These oils penetrate better if you let them sit and tap them with a hammer. I would also keep Acetone off rubber or plastics. Most, if not all of these are flammable.

Penetrating oil------------Average load (lbs)
None---------------------------516
WD-40--------------------------238
PB Blaster----------------------214
Liquid Wrench-----------------127
Kano Kroil-----------------------106
Power steering fluid-Acetone---53
 

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Yes, penetrating lubricants are helped by tapping with a hammer too. I think it loosens the rust and helps it work itself in.

PS, the acetone is probably a thinner to help the oil move.
 

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used to always use wd-40, then found pb-blaster.
That and liquid wrench have worked for me.

well sometimes you need the breaker bar/ torch; or the cut off wheel
 

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Well not so much on freeing rust bolts but putting a compound on them so they always come free.

My father used to work in a foundry. The problem they had is if metal is heated and cooled continously the threads become corroded just the same as exhaust threads. They found that applying a mixture of graphite and oil always made the threads easy to remove. Its easy to apply because the oil makes it a paste, the oil does burn off but it leaves the graphite behind.

He had an old VW camper 1968 and he was always fitted exhaust systems due to corrosion. He decided to buy a stainless system so it would last longer, he coated the threads with the compound. Many years later it needed changing again due to the parts that weren't stainless corroding. The nuts holding the exhaust to the cylinder head had corroded with no signs of flats on them. A light grip with mole grips and they came of and the compound could still be seen on the threads. This is a good tip if you keep cars for many many years. I've applied it to my car though the turbo nuts and bolts aren't easy to access. ;)
 

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I make up a mixture of Never-size, with ATF and synthetic 90 w gear oil to a thin paste, I have 2 inch brush and a 3/8 wide brush and use is on most everything. It even works on the wheel hubs to the disc's/brake drums and the Aluminum wheel rims to the disc it stops the corrosion and allows for better heat transfer.
If you have to assemble "O" rings that are hard to get together try a little Synthetic gear oil.
I use Move-it penetrating oil, because I got it cheap, seems to do the job, sometimes a little vibration with an air hammer does wonders.
 

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The best penertrating fluid I've found & used in the UK is " Plus Gas" . When applied overnight and with a sharp hammer "rap" on the end of the screw the following day it should loosen up most screws . If the screw / bolt is really badly corroded then the application of a small torch flame to get the screw / bolt red hot usually works.
 

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old man tricks for stuck & rusted bolts

Free stuck bolts-
tighten a bit first to crack rust seal
Heat til red then dowse with water to shock the bolt/nut connection
If you don't have an acetylene torch get a Mapp gas plumbers torch, usually hot enough- BE CAREFUL of fuel lines / wires, whatever is on the other side of what you are working on. NEVER assume a fuel tank or line is far enough away. Explosions will ruin your whole day and you ARE working on a machine old enough to rust.
 

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Well not so much on freeing rust bolts but putting a compound on them so they always come free.

My father used to work in a foundry. The problem they had is if metal is heated and cooled continously the threads become corroded just the same as exhaust threads. They found that applying a mixture of graphite and oil always made the threads easy to remove. Its easy to apply because the oil makes it a paste, the oil does burn off but it leaves the graphite behind.

He had an old VW camper 1968 and he was always fitted exhaust systems due to corrosion. He decided to buy a stainless system so it would last longer, he coated the threads with the compound. Many years later it needed changing again due to the parts that weren't stainless corroding. The nuts holding the exhaust to the cylinder head had corroded with no signs of flats on them. A light grip with moile grips and they came of and the compound could still be seen on the threads. This is a good tip if you keep cars for many many years. I've applied it to my car though the turbo nuts and bolts aren't easy to access. ;)
i used to work next to a machine shop that specialized in rehabbing rendering plant equipment (they cook animals into goo to make stuff with it, was a NASTY place) the old machinist that worked there gave me a pint of a silvery black goo in an unmarked can, i know its not never seize, i think it was a mix of graphite, lead and some kind of grease, he told me it was his "special stuff" and if i ever planned on taking somethings apart use it, at the time i was working on heavy equipment, trash trucks, bulldozers, track hoes, pans ect all dirty disgusting things. every thing i ever put it on came right apart with out issue, now i use it very sparingly on break drums bearing hubs and the backs of alloy wheels, every wheel i have ever put it on fell right off, my other mechanic refuses to use it and is constantly having to beat on wheels to get them to come off, it doesn't take much just a few dabs with an acid brush and a smear around.

as for penetrating oil i use PB blaster and a product called zep 45 the 45 doesn't work nearly as well as it used to they took out the 1.1.1 that made it creep.
i also use a lot of wd40, mainly because its "paint safe" and wont attack rubber or plastic like PB, i spray it on bare metal if im not going to be able to prime it right away to prevent flash rust because it washes off easily and evaporates and leaves a nice film on things . i also spray all of my nuts and bolts with it before reassembly, a lot of body bolts like to rust they also cut there own threads so lube helps things go back together easier...

oh and i HATE the smell of PB lol... not to mention it burns like heck if you get it in an open wound .

one of my favorite is my smiths torch with a 0 tip on it, i can make a needle point flame with it and heat almost anything i need to with out starting too many fires.
 

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The Fezman, it's probably made from the stuff he scraped off the rendering equipment, literally elbow grease...errr... hoof grease? I saw an episode of Dirty Jobs where he put basically a whole cow into the grinder. Not some place you want to fall into.
 

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The Fezman, it's probably made from the stuff he scraped off the rendering equipment, literally elbow grease...errr... hoof grease? I saw an episode of Dirty Jobs where he put basically a whole cow into the grinder. Not some place you want to fall into.
i think your right, its some kind of animal fat because it wont wash off with thinner, what was cooler than that grinder on dirty jobs was the gigantic container the machine shop had that was full of liquid lye, they would soak the equipment in it before working on it. they also had a lathe that had a chuck on it that was about 3ft in diameter and had a bed that was every bit of 20ft long, every time i saw it i was amazed, it was so huge when they closed up shop they just left it there it was assembled in place
 

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penetrating oil

I'll give another vote for PB Blaster. It seems to work pretty good. If you can put heat to it, then that is a big plus. The secret sauce mentioned earlier sounds like it would work good, I always coat everything with antiseize when I tear anything apart anymore. It sure makes life alot easier down the road as the neighbor kid who bought my 85 chevy k30 found out whenver he did any work on it, he would remark how easy it was. I said it wasy easy for YOU.
 
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