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Discussion Starter #1
finally got the timing belt on and the engine running (much thanks for timing belt guide). Started it several times and ran for a few minutes each time. Put everything back together, flush and refill coolant. and then no dice on startup. tried advancing ignition pump timing. checked fuses. getting ready to redo timing but was hoping to get some other leads first. any ideas?

2002 golf - alh

thanks
 

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Oops, must've did something puting it back together or the fuel's needing primed maybe. Check the clear pipe going to the pump to see if there's plenty of fuel there.
 

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Air bubbles in the fuel line?

When you advanced injection timing, a tiny bit will move it off the chart and result in a no start due to timing. Try putting everything back to TDC and move the injection pump timing to try to get it back to where you started. Make sure you use a torque wrench on the bolts because some people have tried to do it by feel and broken the bolts.
 

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when you "put everything back together" did you happen to switch a vacuum line or two?
just throwin' things out there
:dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #6
interested in some more ideas. put everything at TDC, believe i got injection pump timing back to "basic" setting. car starts but immediately stalls. pulling code 1248. did i trash the injection pump in this process?
 

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Air bubbles in the fuel line?

When you advanced injection timing, a tiny bit will move it off the chart and result in a no start due to timing. Try putting everything back to TDC and move the injection pump timing to try to get it back to where you started. Make sure you use a torque wrench on the bolts because some people have tried to do it by feel and broken the bolts.
Good idea- I personally make good use of my smaller wrenches when it comes to bolts like these. I use a 1/4" wrench on the IP bolts- it's about 6" long- put two fingers on the wrench and pull pretty hard. It's important to have and develop a feeling for how much torque you are applying without the torque wrench. If you keep working on VWs, you'll eventually find a few bolts that the torque wrench won't fit on. This is when it's good to have an accurate 'by-feeling' idea of torque.

To understand torque-by-feel, we must simply look at the equation for torque. Ft.Lbs is an easy concept. Multiply the length of the lever arm (in ft) times the force applied to the lever arm (in lbs). So putting 1lb of force on a 5ft lever makes the same torque as putting 5lbs of force on a 1ft lever. This is why I always shorten my lever-arm for IP bolts. If I put about 36lbs on the end of my 6" wrench I'll get the desired 18ft/lbs. When tightening valve-cover bolts, don't use a rachet- use a hand driver. This will prevent you from over-tightening the bolts. You might also consider using loctite on the bolts that are famous for stripping even when previously tightened to the correct torque spec. Some light-strength high-temp loctite would be great for valve cover bolts; mid-strength (blue) loctite is a great idea on harmonic balancer bolts.

Starting off with a torque wrench is necessary to learn, but once you start getting the hang of it, tightening by feel can be very accurate.
 

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interested in some more ideas. put everything at TDC, believe i got injection pump timing back to "basic" setting. car starts but immediately stalls. pulling code 1248. did i trash the injection pump in this process?
po1248- There is a chance that you have a clogged fuel filter. When did you replace it last?

Consider re-priming the pump with positive pressure rather than vacuum. Instead of hooking up to the blue hose and sucking fuel through, hook up to the fuel input and a diesel can, and push fuel through until it squirts out the lines. I suspect that if it starts and stalls, it's having trouble getting fuel.

You will need to loosen the injector lines to get the fuel to fill up the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the reply. i tried exactly that. I had realized that I had lost the pump prime while doing the timing belt replace. could not vacuum through the pump. put in positive pressure and bled to the lines. that got it started but then stalls. I am going to grab a fuel filter today and give it a try.
 

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Boy that stinks. My fingers are crossed that you have a filter prolem. Those are a hell of a lot cheaper than injection pump problems. Just a few days ago I went to test-drive a new-to-me injection pump. It was noisy and it went kaput on the test drive. Had to wait for an hour for the tow truck to show up. (Living at a family farm house in the middle of nowhere) Hope your fix is easier than mine. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
start up was great before timing belt. i am afraid that i had been trying to start after timing belt w/o a primed pump, (thinking i had screwed up the timing). but now realizing i was out of fuel. not to mention the immobilizer kicked in just for fun. the light is now off but could it still be the immobilizer?
 

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Oh geez. Yeah, I think it may still be the immobilizer. Especially if when you try to start it it starts up easily every time, but dies right away. That's an immobilizer problem. :(
 

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When tightening valve-cover bolts, don't use a rachet- use a hand driver. This will prevent you from over-tightening the bolts. You might also consider using loctite on the bolts that are famous for stripping even when previously tightened to the correct torque spec. Some light-strength high-temp loctite would be great for valve cover bolts; mid-strength (blue) loctite is a great idea on harmonic balancer bolts.

Starting off with a torque wrench is necessary to learn, but once you start getting the hang of it, tightening by feel can be very accurate.

I agree with using a hand driver or 1/4" breaker bar to tighten the valve cover bolts..

BUT!!!

I do not agree with putting any loctite on the valve cover bolts. they tend to be super easy to strip out and hard enough to loosen when installed dry.. adding something to the threads that will make them even harder to loosen is asking for trouble..

install valve cover bolts clean & dry.. 7 ft-lb is all it takes. or just snug in a skip around the head pattern.

for the harmonic balancer bolts, these also like to strip out. and the spec of 18 ft-lb is to me just the amount of force it takes to turn the engine over with the ratchet on the allen head bolt. if you are against compression, you are at the right amount of force when the engine starts to turn as you tighten the bolt head with a typical 1.5 ft flex head 3/8" ratchet. I also install these dry as they like to strip when removing.

thats in my 2 years + of experience doing these timing belts most every weekend. FWIW.
 
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