Well the project keeps growing - some would call it 'mission creep'. After deciding I would try a modified bearing design I sent my cam caps away to be modified to accept the modified bearing, I also sent my cam and followers away for inspection - pictures are okay, but putting them in a guru's hands seemed to be a good idea. The cam was slightly worn - may even get a core credit, but the followers, while not really dished out, looked like the nitride had been slapped off of it. The guru tells me it is likely that those harder than diamond chips are in the crank case and may have been sucked up the oil pump which may have damaged the pump. So after I get the car mostly reassembled, I get to take the crank case off and inspect the oil pump. Need to check the DIY section for those proceedures - Maybe I will get the car done by October?
Project is on hold until I recieve a 'calibrated' torque wrench - chitys disqust for H..F.. quality tools got me doubting my old no name torque wrench.
Thanks alot chity
The worst is over, which was drilling a new oiling hole in the head. jaw drops
Sears always has torque wrenches. I wouldn't use a Harbor Freight torque wrench on the engine....maybe they're OK for the wheels but I agree, it's not worth saving $50 on a wrench when it could cause $2000 in damage to the head.
Well - it is a done deal. 400 miles into the break-in on the new cam. Between this forum and another forum made the job easy with lots of support and info. I will add just a few observations. 1) Joe Gibbs break in oil has a 'unique' odor - it almost smells burnt right out of the container. And really stinks once it is warm. 2) The first 5 minutes of run time on an engine with lots of new parts is a noisy affair. I thought I had made a big mistake someplace on the reassembly. After about 5 minutes, it was smooth as silk. Got lucky on the cam timing of 0.0 torsion value on the first adjustment attempt! Now maybe I am good for another 80K miles or more.
Mine sounded no different with the new cam. Did you check that the camshaft rotated smoothly with no binding from the camshaft caps? Franko6 and I have discussed this at length and the caps are sometimes slightly crooked during installation. This will cause even resistance when turning the camshaft. There is some resistance from the valve springs but it feels different. If someone didn't check for this and tightened the cam bearing caps, the bearings would immediately be worn down from being forced into shape while the engine runs. There is a note in the camshaft replacement article about this.
Of course, it's also very possible that you're just not used to listening to the engine with the cover off and hood open and like me, are paranoid that you did something wrong! Hope you enjoy and see if the colt cam makes any difference!
Chitty - I believe the sound was probably the followers pumping up - franko6 thought the same thing. I did do the 'knock the snot' out of the cam caps. The cam turned quite easily before I put the injector pumps on. I rolled the bottom of the engine back a 1/4 turn so that I could spin the cam around. franko6 thought that I may have also had injector pins abit to tight. I wonder if the timing retarded to -3.2 may have made it noisier? But you are right, I have never had all the engine covers off and a block of wood holding the throttle at 2500 rpm while standing by the car hearing every little noise. I also took the oil pump apart, I wonder if that may have delay the oil reaching the top of the engine. It is amazing how much oil does not drain out of that engine until you start taking things apart.
Do you think I should take a cam cap off over the week end to take a peek? I would probably do #1 since it had the oil modification. Or would you recommend a different cap?
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