Fine tuning is a good idea, but not absolutely necessary if you fine tune the proceduredoes the camshaft timing need to be fine tuned with computer after timing belt change
From my earlier post.
You Don't really need the complete tool kit. Just the crank lock and you can lock the cam with a letter "A" sized drill.
You don't really need the tensioner lock either, even though some tensioners come with it.
What I do is to slide the tensioner away from the head and then put the belt on the crank, water pump and tensioner and then put the sprocket inside the belt.
Then put the sprocket in place and slide the tensioner to within about 1/4 inch away from the head. If the bolt holes are about in the middle of the slot, put 1 bolt in to hold the sprocket loosely in place, line up the tab and push the tensioner against the head and put the tensioner nut on finger tight.
Install the other 2 sprocket bolt and make sure all 3 are finger tight and then loosened about 1/8 of a turn. tension the belt and lock down the tensioner and tighten the 3 bolts snug but not torqued yet.
What I do next will set your timing very accurately.
What you just did was compensated for belt stretch. I did my BRM this way twice because the new cam seal leaked the first time and I got a Torsion (cam to crank timing) value of -1 the first time and zero the second time. Very accurate indeed........
- Remove the cam and crank lock
- Turn the engine 2 revolutions till the crank lock is a slip fit.
- Loosen the 3 bolts on the cam
- Turn the cam center bolt (slightly) for a slip fit on the cam lock
- Re-adjust the belt tension if required. (it will be off)
- Snug the 3 cam bolts
- Make sure both locks still have a slip fit and remove them
- Turn the engine 2 more revolutions till the crank tool is a slip fit.
- If the cam tool is still a slip fit, remove the lock tools and torque the 3 cam bolts and the tensioner