[chittychittybangbang]

Articles include links to parts vendors so you can quickly compare pricing and kit components and differences between what the service manual shows and what may be on your car. There is also a bolt access hole that isn't mentioned in the service manual. Water pump change is in a separate article to free up some space.

Included in part 2 is a youtube video showing tensioner action.

Part 1- removal : http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/brm-VW-Jetta-TDI-timing-belt-replacement-1.htm

Part 2- installation:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f21/2005-5-2006-vw-jetta-tdi-timing-belt-installation-3006/

Water pump change:http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a5/waterpumpBRM.htm
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/water-pump-VW-Jetta-TDI-2005-2006.htm

The BEW engine is similar, if you have a BEW engine, read this writeup and the ALH writeup and you'll be able to figure it out.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

And of course thanks to the brave volunteer who supplied the car! I have made some edits and added pics to clarify.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Not sure. What I do know is that the car I worked on was different from what the Bentley had. And the Bentley also left out some really helpful tips like the access hole for the motor mount bolt.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Much easier on the A5 body because of more room and the motor mount access hole.

The ALH timing belt has more tricky areas than most simple engines, which is why I think it gets screwed up a lot. For example, the position of the injection pump pin could be misplaced, adjusting the injection pump sprocket, making sure the camshaft sprocket is tight, etc. And the valve cover bolts often stripped or were hard to access which adds significant time. The horizontal motor mount bolts are hard to access.

The BRM timing belt uses an idiot proof crankshaft lock and the horizontal motor mount bolt has an access hole pictured in the writeup. The motor mount is also attached at different points which makes removal much easier. No need to remove the valve cover. This all speeds things up considerably. I take my time, clean the misc parts as they are removed, and take multiple pictures each step to make sure the pictures are focused and usable. If I had to do it again, I think 4 hours is realistic. I'm guessing that a guru with a car lift and power tools could do it in 2 hours.

And the timing belt itself is simpler. As long as the tools are used (and the pin goes all the way in, not halfway in) it's harder to mess up, which is good news for those who take the cars to the dealer, lol. The only tricky thing is getting the camshaft sprocket in the right spot. Like the ALH injection pump sprocket, the BRM camshaft sprocket uses ovaled holes so that it can be adjusted without moving the camshaft. If the belt is put on the way I did it, the holes can be put in the middle with ease. If the belt is put on ending with the water pump as the service manual suggests, be prepared for a fight. The oilhammer way works but I've found that removing the sprocket completely like the ALH method, kills two birds with one stone: getting the belt on with ease and positioning the sprocket within the ovaled holes.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

re:

Hi- I just registered on the site. It looks alot like the tdi forum, !
Anyway, I have a question or three on the timing belt change for my 06 Jetta TDI.

Why do we need to crank the camshaft backward upon installation, and why are there slotted holes in the cam gear?
Where does the "rig pin" go into in the cam gear? Where does it seat?
I mean, if the cam gear clamp-dn bolts and holes are slotted, what (good) does the cam gear pin hold, then? Confuzed.

No, I do not have a manual -yet.
I'm gearing up tio do this job early...I have 56K miles

I believe that the camshaft being tightened backward is to take up any slack on the right side (as you're looking at it) and put it on the side of the tensioner so that the tensioner can properly tighten the belt.

The slotted holes are to let the sprocket rotate within the range of the holes. If you watch the videos this will be more clear - the sprockets rotate a little during tensioning.

The pin through the camshaft sprocket goes into a hole. There are pics on the writeup that detail it. here they are again.

This one has the sprocket removed for illustration. As you can see, the pin holds the hub underneath the sprocket steady. The hub is bolted to the camshaft. This holds the camshaft steady. The ovaled holes on the camshaft sprocket let it rotate a little without moving the camshaft, which must stay at TDC.

If you're only at 56k, there is no rush. The factory recommendation on the timing belt is 100k miles. You can check it at 70-80k for obvious wear. If you want to change it early, 85-90k miles is early enough.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

The crankshaft lock's arrow will only be correct and fit at TDC. I will add a note specifically saying this. done!

The pin does go through the sprocket boss into a hole in the cyl head. This holds the camshaft at TDC. The sprocket must have the slots so that the sprocket can rotate (with camshaft locked at TDC) to let the tensioner apply tension evenly across the belt. If you didn't use the pin the camshaft would move as you tighten the belt.

The engine must be supported because you remove the pass side engine mount. You must remove the mount to remove the stuff on the side of the engine.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

The service manual doesn't say to remove the camshaft sprocket but I do and it goes on loose and easy. Make sure the belt isn't getting caught somewhere or twisted. Make sure you have the right belt and right parts. Read part 2 of the writeup and it should help

 

[chittychittybangbang]

no prob, i hope you find a shady spot to work...it must be 100 degrees in texas now.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

do i need the timing belt removel kit for $120 form disel geek, or is there a cheper way.

I rent the tools but they are currently out as of this writing. You really do need the crank tool, it is required.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

You Don't really need the complete tool kit. Just the crank lock and you can lock the cam with a letter "A" sized drill.
............

Just to be clear for anyone else reading this, you are right, you only need the crank lock and any pin equivalent in diameter to the VW pin. The dimensions are listed in the writeup.

The technique is what is important and is listed in the writeup.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

You need T10100, 50 is for the older engines, they are different. the 50 sprocket is for a round crank sprocket, 100 is for an oval crank sprocket, and the arrows are in different locations.

Read the FAQ, it shows the blue sprocket tool in use. Technically you don't need it, you could sub it since its purpose is to take the slack out of the water pump side of the belt. I show its use because that's what the manual says to do.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Look at the pictures. There are no marks on the sprocket, eyeball the ovaled bolt holes. The bolts should be in the middle. When you tension the belt, it should move so that tension is spread evenly, then you tighten the bolts.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Im in the process of doing the timing belt change myself. I got all the specialty tools and the metalnerd crank shaft tool (the second gold one pictured in the how to).

My problem (so far) is that when I get the cam pin in place I cant get the crank pin to line up. if I put the pin into the block the holes are off by one hole. By that I mean the smaller holes that the bolts wont go through line up with the bolt holes on the crank shaft. I even turned the cam shaft all the way around while pushing the lock pin the entire 360 degrees of rotation o see if there was a second hole it would line up with.

On the crank shaft the "crown" cut out points at the throttle body. Comparing it to the pics in the how to it seems like its not pointing in the same position.

its an 06 BRM Jetta Engine.

Can you take a pic just so there's no confusion? if not sure how to post pic : http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f23/how-post-pictures-videos-files-pic-vid-rules-1044/

If it's a tiny hair off, it's OK because it means the belt has drifted slightly. just remove belt and reset cam-crank to TDC positions. But the crank tool should look like in the pics. Regardless of your crank or tool, both t10050 and t10100 still have the crank sprocket at same positions, just the tools have hte arrows in diff spots and one sprocket is oval, one is circular.

Here's a pic of the metalnerd too used on a t10050 type sprocket (yours should be a t10100 type)

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Chitty,

I read most of your installation blog. Very detailed. My brother-in-law are seriously debating the changeover of the timing belt and water pump on a BRM. The big question is do we need a computer to reprogram the injection?

We read this last night and now are in fear that we wont be able to get it all done...

Thanks.

Reprogram what injection? Read all of the instructions, not "most" and you'll get it

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Thanks, I'm away for a few day at the race track. When I get back I will check out and post the code.

it's a BRM.

I've never heard of one having the older style but the manual says early build might. Personally I think it's a manual error but I could be wrong...but there are a few significant mistakes in that expensive manual!

 

[chittychittybangbang]

if lock tools both went in fine after turning engine over a few times back to TDC it should be very close, definitely OK to drive. Worth checking with VCDS afterwards though.