The engine is a 1.9 AHH, there is 140500 miles on it now(500 are mine).
Since these pictures I've cleaned up the engine bay, I have plenty of work to do on the interior, I'd like to do a full interior swap actually.
I need to do lots of research on performance upgrades, I'm thinking about just doing an EGR delete and a chip on the factory turbo for now then maybe do some sort of custom setup if I don't go with a VNT17/22
Great find! Thanks for the pics, can I add any of your pics to the buying guide as an interesting side note?
Do you know any history of the prior owner? IIRC you bought it from a dealer.
Since the AHH engine should be close to the AHU which has the ALH pistons. The engine should be good for up to around 200 hp. I have an article on how to fit an injection pump from ALH engines in case you have an AHU type injection pump instead of ALH type pump:http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a3b4/injection-pump-alh-swap-repair-tdi.htm . The automatic transmission ALH had larger 11mm injection pumps, which combined with a larger turbo/injectors/tuning, can make for a fast car.
Sure, thats not a problem. The engine bay is cleaner now.
I do have most of the history, if I knew someone with a carfax account I could probably get more.
The car was in the auto show along with another identical to it. Burnsville VW bought them both and sat on them till 2001(at least mine) and sold it to someone here in the metro for $24,000. I have a huge stack of receipts from this guy up to about 54000 miles, then it blanks and the previous owner added a receipt at 82,800 for the t-belt job then no more info until i got it with 140,000 miles.
Its in rough shape but I'm working on that, in the process of fixing the locks tonight I messed up the window actuator cables so I need to fix that now too.
As far as what I paid for it, not enough
This week I'll be flushing the coolant, I'll probably get a new coolant reservoir for it because this one is green(universal crap turned it green). As soon as my mechanic figures out which parts I need I'll do the t-belt. It needs a glow plug or wiring harness. EGR delete will get done(I'll fab up some plates), I'll have to look for injectors then get a tune.
I too am wondering about collector value, I want to replace the interior to make it nice for me but I might do some body work on it too if it has any collector value. Also if it does I suppose I should keep the same interior color?
This car was from a car show? How did it get sold to the dealer if it was a prototype? Is it a legal VIN number? That's certainly an interesting story.
Nice work, it'll be nice to see it coming along. Please share any pics since it'll be interesting to see the progress on such a rare car.
Interiors should be relatively cheap to find. While it's a cool car and I think it's definitely noteworthy, you have to have a market to drive the price up to make it financially worthwhile to preserve it as all original.
This car was from a car show? How did it get sold to the dealer if it was a prototype? Is it a legal VIN number? That's certainly an interesting story.
There was a story of two 1998 passat TDI that were street legal and sold. One showed up way overpriced in the classifieds and then disappeared. It's not known if this is the same car but the OP says he got a good price. VW decided not to sell them because they felt they were too noisy and slow. They brought them back for 2004 with a different engine and revised chassis/body.
I was curious what parts were on this engine:
It has the AHU injection pump (same as 1998 Jetta TDI). Different fuel injectors. The turbo is 028 145 702 hx, a garrett. It's similar to the AFN turbo.
Here's a list of timing belt parts for the AHH engine.
timing belt: 028 109 119 aa
timing belt tensioner : 028 109 243 k
timing belt tensioner self locking nut: n 900 744 01
upper "relay roller": 028 109 244
other misc parts I looked up for you:
uses AHU fuel filter . AHU is 1998 Jetta TDI engine
air filter": 058 113 843 or 8d0 113 843
water pump: 028 121 004
The crankcase breather hose always dries out or cracks and leaks. It may be worth it to replace it, it's the same part as AHU.
It looks like it also uses the same crankshaft pulley but the US Spec AHU engine had a different part number. On mk3 Jetta and Passat TDI, it dries out and makes a squeaking or chirping noise on cold starts.
028 105 243 q is the part for the crank pulley AHH engine. Here is more info on that: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a3b4/tdi-cold-chirp-noise.htm
Does anyone have a source for the water pump? So far one VW dealer told me the wrong info, another gave me the part number and a price of $171. The third, who's done work on this specific car before said they'd likely have to order it from germany, they've ordered parts for this car before and had them shipped in and it sounds like VW covered the shipping.
So far, the only parts that are unique are the water pump and t-belt tensioner(T-belt has a diff part number but is probably the same, there is an AHU belt in the car right now).
compact bracket / 1.9ltr. / 4 cylinder
water pump
/ diesel eng.: AHU,AFN,AHH, AVG
1 028121004
water pump
/
(1) 028121004 X
water pump
/
2 028121031J
pulley
/
3 N 90544201
hexagon socket head bolt with collar
M8X11 /
4 028121041F
seal
94X3,5 /
5 N 10172501
allen key head bolt (combi)
M6X22-S4-SP /
(7) 038121119B
seal
50X4 /
8 044121113
coolant thermostat
87C-102C /
(9) 048121121B
connecting socket
/
15
timing belt: 028 109 119 aa
timing belt tensioner : 028 109 243 k
timing belt tensioner self locking nut: n 900 744 01
upper "relay roller": 028 109 244
The easy way to judge collector interest - put it up on ebay. I don't think that even after 20 years the value of this car would go up though. Look at the price of old rabbits and there's your answer.
The easy way to judge collector interest - put it up on ebay. I don't think that even after 20 years the value of this car would go up though. Look at the price of old rabbits and there's your answer.
I was looking at that line, as well as others, I replaced 2 that wouldn't stay on their hose barbs anymore, that one is next. Its actually in tact still, the outside isn't and its likely kinked a little. I took it for a spin today after the EGR delete and it felt really good.
I'll copy and paste a few here and there.
starting here:
I learned a thing or three. After struggling to get my door open again, I crawled in from the passenger side, disassembled the door then popped it open. turns out I could have gotten it open real quick from the outside.
This is how I had the cable hooked up, its too tight, it acted like someone was pulling on the handle while unlocking the door.
This is what it should look like(maybe a hair tighter)
Next, when pulling out or putting the lock cylinder in, try not to knock this piece out like I did.
it rotates with a little screw in the end that allows the lock cylinder to be installed or removed.
I pulled the lock out of the passenger side and put it in the drivers side(someone put a new lock in the drivers side to fix the door latch/lock) and found that there was metal in the way making it only work on the passenger side. There is an easy fix for that.
The door latch just needed to come apart, re-align some levers and put it back together, after the blunders above it appears to work!
I also got my new door installed, the car is starting to look good! those nasty dents really made it look bad.
The back glass is tinted darker than the rest, I'll either swap it or tint the rest to match.
I also did my fourth flush, the 3rd one was still green(supposedly he used green "universal" antifreeze").
well, I decided to do the EGR Delete because I got bored today, I'm glad I did. I haven't tested it yet because all the auto parts stores were closed by the time I got far enough into it to realize that I need to tie those two coolant lines together rather than swap the hose to the block, the one on the block is ~25mm and the EGR cooler are 20mm.
Tomorrow I'll get an elbow or U to tie those together so I can test it out and see if it goes into limp mode.
In the process of doing all of this work, I cleaned up the air box real good, the snow screen was even nastier than I thought, it was probably 50% clogged, even though I sucked all the gunk out of it, the screen itself was clogged.
I also found that the turbo bolts onto the exhaust, I thought the exhaust manifold and the turbine housing on these were 1 piece? Mine has three bolts, it actually looks like a VNT1749VA from a B5.5 will bolt right up.
Here are a few pics:
Coolant has been flushed and now there is G12 in there, all it needs is a timing job and its ready to go.
After stopping at every auto parts store and hardware store in town, none even have a 7/8" hose barb, I made a straight thru 20mm union, I'll chop the hose from the heater core and splice it into the hose that goes to the block. I ran the car without the EGR and it worked great, I had to use the EGR cooler to tie the coolant lines together but will put this guy in soon.
not sure if I'll anodize it yet, I'll see if there is a batch going out tomorrow.
Sure, its not the prettiest setup, I fabbed up the plates in about half an hour for that one.
The one thing that I've seen missing from any other info that I've found on the subject is what to do with the coolant lines.
I have that picture without the text if you want it.
Mine is a bit different than most, the kits I've seen come with a coolant line to replace. I might do a little more looking to try to find the proper hose, they made this engine without a watercooled EGR.
Against my better judgment(needs timing job), I took the TDI for a spin to a friends place. its about a 24 mile trip each way, taking it easy(not ridiculous) I was able to pull off 53.4MPG on the way home, through two cities, probably 3/4 hwy miles.
Just thought I had to report these results
I think I could get 55+ on a longer 55-60mph trip.
I also found that 3 of my 4 glow plugs are bad.. high or infinite resistance.
How did I miss this one? Epic post. Yeah, don't risk the engine if your'e not sure about the TB. How did you calculate the mpg? Scangauge works but the best way is with pen and paper. Bad GP are common but it could be the wiring harness too.
How did I miss this one? Epic post. Yeah, don't risk the engine if your'e not sure about the TB. How did you calculate the mpg? Scangauge works but the best way is with pen and paper. Bad GP are common but it could be the wiring harness too.
Hi everyone, I am after some advice if possible please. I recently changed the camshaft on my wife’s pd150 ARL Golf after it had worn through a lifter. During the job a few things went wrong, one of the spring caps on an injector came away (the lip on the cap broke away, possibly the first time...
Hey guys,
Just wondering if anyone can provide help getting the clip onto the intercooler where it goes to the intake. Is there a trick to this? Need special tools? Do I have to remove the headlight?
Regards,
Aaron
Hi guys,
I'm in the middle of an install of a crankshaft seal and camshaft seal.
I just noticed that the seals do not come with installation sleeves.
Does anyone have the speciality tool
T10053
for the Crank and the camshaft
Oil seal driver -10-203 tool?
If I could borrow it...
Hey folks,
So I watched a few videos, and started in on this timing belt/water pump swap. I took everything out, including the mid motor mount (the one with 3x 16mm bolts that attach to the engine). Messed with the pulleys and water pump and tensioner, and FINALLY got the timing belt on (was...
I took apart the antena base on my MK4 TDI, it is corroded to death. My question is, do I have to purchase the OEM antena base or can I make it work somehow with a cheaper aftermarket one? I know the OEM part has an amplifier built in, are there aftermarket ampifiers which I can plug in next to...
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