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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
this is basically my notes cleaned up a little bit on the procedure based on the Bentley manual and a plethora of online resources which may or may nor always be available.

So what I tell you is if you’re like me and you’ve been reading Service manuals and then performing the work on your vehicle and others vehicles since you were 17, then go for it, it’s pretty easy. This is my first time making a DIY. It is my first time doing a camshaftt change or Timing belt on any vehicle!
Get the alignment tools ! they really do put you in time the mark and pray method, Its a coin flip, you will be in time enough i suppose, but you can optimize you engine so why not do so? Ok my uneducated rant over.

I repeat. insert image here

You need the timing tools...the kit like $60 on amazon!

other tools needed. off memory, a breaker bar, hose clap tool , pliers work. A complete socket set 10,13,15,16 18, 19
the 19 needs to be a 12 point for crank pulley
the 18 is also a 12 point for the cam
You need 5mm and 6mm hex
Triple square 8,10, 12, 14

I used 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" drives, the 1/4 makes some things MUCH easier to reach!
you also need various extensions and ratchets ecy. Phillips and flat head screwdriver‘s.

You also obviously need all the parts and replacement fluids. also you should get the extra Oil oil filters coolant break in oil, and power steering fluid. it adds up but its all basicallyneeded.
Finally, Let me just say, if you don’t have a decent torque wrench you shouldn’t do this job!
I have two a 1/2 and a 3/4 in digital one is quinn one is craftsmen. I got them really cheap brand new or id have to borrowed one.

Ultimately, I attacked the t belt first but I’ll stop before locking the motor mount bracket and tensioner down. to change my attention to the completion and work on the cam. In retrospect as long as you have the timing belt tools you could just as well cut the cam belt, swap the cam, and then do the timing belt job. But I did not want my cam shaft sitting there all lonely and lubed up that long ; 0)

Ok enough BS time to work.

Jack up passenger side enough to remove wheel. Be safe use jackstands, you’ll be here a while.

Remove from above
*Complete Upper intercooler hose use hose pliers
Use a flat head on the Clips

*remove lower Timing belt guard. it actually comes two pieces, I thought it was one piece at first. I think it was a 10 maybe a 12

*Unscrew and relocate coolant bottle two philips hiding just underneath of it. shine a light.
I put the screw back where they were so i don't loose em.

*Unscrew and relocate power steering fluid reservoir. One bolt connects to the motor mount it’s a 5mm hex on my car. I use some tape to attach the bolt to the reservoir, and I drain the reservoir from the bottom of the engine. Then I let the reservoir hang out near the oil cooler.

*serpentine belt snd tensioner. put a 16mm Open end wrench over serp tensione and pull it toward the front of car, be careful if the wrench slips off it will hurt! The belt can now be slipped off, there is a hole to insert a pin I chose to do this, forgot a picture put anything that fits the hole and strong will make it happy.

*Remove the tandem pump 4 bolts in total,

*The two on the back are 6mm on my car the two on the front are 5mm
-they are also easier to get if you take the air box out.
That’s not mandatory for this Job, but I did remove the airbox and the turbo inlet pipe because I was doing other things while waiting for parts to arrive.

*For the pump, unhooked all the lines, and set it aside if you do that make sure you mark everything somehow so you know what goes. Or for cheap insurance. When doing big jobs that encompasses several jobs in one it is a good idea to set parts snd their bolts / hoses into different boxes to keep things easy to recall for assembly. on some jobs I use paper and put everything in ziplock bags labeled ect. It really pays off!
*****PS if you are NOT replacing the tandem pump like I did than just hang it from a bungee or somethings, also put something under it to protect the components from the dripping fuels.

Remove the following from below:

*Skid plate or heat shield

*Passenger fender liner t20

*lower intercooler from IC to turbo hose flat head

*Remove lower timing belt cover 10mm (maybe 12 i don't recall)

*Serpentine belt crank Pulley it takes a triple square be careful! don't strip em!
-I replaced mine with 12.9 reusable bolts.

*Drain oil and coolant make sure and remove the lower rad hose and let it drain to get as much coolant out as possible.

I start with the nipple on the radiator and then the Lower rad hose.

Put car in TDC you can mark it but again just get the tools! your car will run better and you can better advance or retard it with accuracy as desired later. Statical tolerance is cool adhere to it!!
Also you need the cam counter hold tool and both the crank snd cam lock. IMO Without them your off time by a small amount. I guess it can be corrected later...

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Support the engine cuz soon the motor Mount is coming off.
On that note, as annoying as it it, I can’t imagine doing this job without a proper engine support. I did use a jack underneath , but that was just cheap insurance for an old used Harbor freight tool.

Now I wanna get most of the timing belt job done.

Next crack the 18mm bolt on the cam sprocket. Don’t remove it tho. (can be don'e later if you have the cam hold tool)

Loosteon the motor Mount bolts make sure the motor is properly supported before removing it all the way.

Now the 3 bolts that hold the motor Mount bracket to the body are 16mm (see tangent a few lines down)

just lift the engine and get the two upper bolts then droop. You need an extension for one.
You have to droop the motor to get the lower one off.

loosten the tensioner bolt I think it was a 15mm
remove the roller i think it was a 14mm
use a 6mm to relive tension on the tensioner (to the left)
Slip the belt off.

Tangent about the bracket mentioned above, For me The tensioner had to come out to fully remove the bracket. same with installation. I was told to put the belt on with the tensioner and bracket as one unit. That really helped.

Most say to work around the Mount that’s it’s a PIA. Truth! but I removed it because you need to know how to work around it. this took a while to figure out,

if you take the rest of the lower turbo pipe off you can get it all the way out a little bit easier. if you leave it in, you can rest in out of the way while you work. When you get in there youll see. this is one of the hardest parts of the job haha it can break a small piece of plait and it got sthrough the center of the belt, annoying a sit gets i say!

To reiterate, the motor mont engine bracket does not have to come out , but it was easier for me to take that thing out and put it in like 10 times with the tensioner with old parts belt included before completing the job so I knew exactly how to do it. For of like practicing for an exam or performance.

At the end of the day when you put it back in you pretty much have to put it in at the same time as the tensioner and the timing belt. It’s tricky but easy once you figure out the puzzle. it took a bit of time. Take breaks.

Ok, so remove the water pump thermostat (There will be a mess so be prepared with bucket and towls. The water pump can be pried out a flat head, lean the shaft on the alternator and the head behind the water pump Pulley and press send them jiggle from the other side. You’ll get it pop. I think the slot on the other side is for a dowl to go in and help press the pump out. To get it back in just use criss cross pattern it sucks itself In.
the thermostat is a PIA cuz the bottom 10mm is hard to get at. You can use a 6mm hex too. I had to use 1/4 drive with extension and wobblies to get these out, combination of 10mmand 6mm. honestly this part annoyed me almost as much as the motor mount and was one of the hardest parts of the job. and I was scared of the cam hahaha
this is a good place to stop and eat watch video of the processes your about to do!

Now lets turn out attendant to the cam removal and installation.
Next, Remove the cam sprocket completely. the 18mm an stay in place but the 13mm have to go.

Remove the cam sprocket holder, it just pulls of with the cam puller tool I have (I did have to assemble it its kind cheap but works well once you figure it out) I seen where you can use a drift snd get it off from the back too.

IOnce the cover is off move all Obstacles and follow the manuals directions. For camshaft removal removal. also more the tools i mentioned are shown, camshaft counter hold and camshaft puller.
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This is s good Time to Google “TDI bew rocker arm oil passage gallery” and be afraid your new cam won't get proper lube

Before removing the rocker arms
it’s a good idea to loosen the jam nuts on the injectors for a later step.

*Mark the rocker arms I marked The passenger side with a P and the driver side with a D for a pump dece lol
*Mark the bearing caps 1-5 #1 being close to the timing belt. Mine were all engraved except #4 I marked them all anyway.
*so now loosen caps 5, 1, snd then 3 now loosen 2 snd 4. with the appropriate triple square bit.
--- As a note be careful here and hold you and LOW on the socket and bit so you don't accidnetly drop something in the head. later when the arrived, I stuffed the head with shop towls so nothing could do this.

*Once loose follow inside outside pattern and watch the cam lift up out of the engine. (there is a phot from the Bentley below that shows this i marked it with a ##)
now Pull the caps snd cam out.
*Remove the lower bearing shells, keep em In order for inspection purposes.
*Remove cam followers keeping them in order for inspection.

*Clean all surfaces very well

*Install new lifters use super sucky lube.

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*slide the bearing into the upper bearing cap with some more lube. I made sure and get the bearings flush to the surface on both sides.it probably matters a little
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*Set cam in (observe TDC via Bentley.)
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I covered it in the driven assambly lube. It is far superior at adhering than anything currently available to me. I slathered the lifters and camshaft with driven
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*Grease caps and cam mating surfaces

*Install lower bearing cap

## First check manual again and be positive of Where to put the RTV.
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Get started with 2 and 4 just a little then 3,1,5 and follow the pattern slowly watch the cam drop. Observe TQ specs! I used the updated reusable bolts from cascade germain. Per frank06
60 in lbs strike cap with rubber mallet
120in lbs strike cap again
150 in lbs strike
I was very meticulous about this. I actually did 60, 100, 120,140, then 150 striking between each set.

ALSO had to back everything off so learn from my mistake, put cam seal on just before tightening the bolts so it will seat all the way. The manual calls for this part to be pressed on snd off.
* The orientation of the seal is so the flat part faces the cam sprocket I did not see this anywhere. Installation is simple, just slide it on till it stops and then get the old one and use it with a socket to press it in well.
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  • cam sprocket holder is 100NM you need the counter hold tool for this part if you wish to do it now like I did other wise it should have been removed before the timing belt was as mentioned above.
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    Install timing belt-
    The manual says to leave the water pump pulley for last so I did. (However the first thing I did was install the water pump and TQ those nuts down. First clean the area where the seal sits.) I hope these images help .
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    removal is opposite of installation ;)
  • Timing belt installation
  • the belt half way on the crank pulley. No image sorry
  • Then Route the belt up over the side water pump and Let the belt hang. Turn your attention to the motor mount engine block bracket snd the TB tensioner as one function.
  • You have to kind of rotate it out of the way while at the same time pulling the timing belt with the timing camshaft sprocket as well as the tensioner into place.
  • Make sure to get the tensioner tab lined up in the hole on the inner belt cover! See above Bentley shows this. it’s pretty clear once your in there just remember to do it!
  • Once you get all this crap in its respective place (it’s a pita go slow and take breaks) get the tensioner nut started
  • The tensioner can be tricky here this video helps what I’m tryint to explain a lot!
  • then turn the tensioner unit left with a 6mm ball end or other tool
  • Turn till gently until it stops.
  • Then insert the tensioner lock tool ( my cascade kit did not have one, so I made one with a carter pin)
  • now you can turn the tensioner back to the right till it gently stops. Tighten the tensioner nut just a enough so the tensioner is not tryint to spin back left. remove the tensioner lock pin.
  • At this point the belt can be wrestled into place.
  • Make sure the cam is still perfectly in TDC. I i triple check the cam is in TDC for cylinder number one with my lock tool. Then remove the tool. it makes it fool proof as the tool lines the camshaft sprocket mount to the cylinder head, and it only fits the cam one way. again get the tool.
  • 3 bolts in the cam sprocket should be about center
  • Once the belt is about half way on the cam sprocket , the tensioner and the crank pulley you can reach down and pull the timing belt over the water pump as the Bentley suggests.
  • I did the water pump part of the belt last
  • I started with the belt half on crank and tensioner,
  • Then I did the cam sprocket also half way on (get it lined up with the crown facing up. and the crank pin is able to almost fit.
  • that motor mount bracket is a PAI here, but as noted when removing it, you can kinda slap it all up as one unit.
  • now reach down and grab the water pump section. Muscle it up,
  • now go back to the crank pulley and slide it all the way on the belt as well as the water pump, and cam.
  • Once the belt is on everything ensure it is not gonna rub on anything.
  • Then go ahead and loosen the tension nut just a hair so it can rotate again. there will be some tension added. Smile
  • Next, Get your 6 mm Allen key back out and put the arrow in the window for the tensioner. And snug the bolt.
  • I stop here and check everything over.
  • Again go slow and check your work !
  • That’s how I pass! If I can do this so can you !I
  • as noted I played around with all this a lot with my old cam belt and components. It was MUCH easier with an old belt , duh stretch, still getting the basics down was wise for me. Kinda like a little school in my garage.
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  • Anyway, get cam lock tool in place
  • Get the crank lock tool in place.
  • Tighten three bolts on cam sprocket 25NM (off memory double check)
  • Remove lock tools.
  • Rotate engine from crank 2x and the cam should be in TDC still
  • My pin dropped right in for me and I knew I did something right cuz it normally a bit challenging you have to rock it a bit to get it in. the same was true for the crank, but your gonna have to read this far to know that!
  • Install tandem pump. I used 1/4 drive tools here again makes it a little easier.
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  • install serp belt tensioner
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    I Make sure the injectors are installed properly cuz I wanna upgrade mine next :devilish:
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    this is how you set the lash, study this, google 1.9tdi pd lash adjustment. this was harder than the timing belt for me cuz there is more grey area. any time you change the cam the rockers need to be adjusted. you could break injector components if this part is done wrong it is VITAL. lash is a silly term cuz the nipple always touches the plunger and there is no visible lash! it is all internal.
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    *install rocker arms (remember to loosen the old lash settings first so you don’t damage the injector nipples) this is debatable , you cold just mark them, but I had a damaged nipple cause me grief so the wear pattern does not align properly. I’ll take the extra steps.

    This procedure is a bit wonky in the Bentley as well so thankfully we have experience to follow again! It to me a moment to understand the eye ball method. Shown below

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  • I looked at this after scratching my butt one last time and it clicked!
  • Once i realized the intake manifold Lines up almost perfectly with the intake lobe it’s simple
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    Look close snd see my yellow marks how they line up with the manifold?just make sure that cam lobe lines up with the rocker armor the injector your adjusting.
  • Boom eyeball method simplified for morons like me ! :)
  • Now for the work!
  • I use an 18mm angle wrench like this one. The angle allows an easier fit.
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  • using a 6mm hex or Allen head key loosen the lash adjuster
  • Rotate the engine till you find your chosen starting point. The firing order is 1243. Just be positive the intake lobe is facing upwards on the injector your adjusting. It needs to be able to bottom out!
  • So with the prior condition met for any given cylinder spin the 6mm key to the right with socket wrench
  • It will spin
  • You will see the spring compress
  • Once the spring is fully compressed you will know.the wrench will tell you to stop
  • See the 4th injector below , all are set this is fully compressed.
  • It will become more clear when you do it. Everyone says tighten it till it stops, if you try hand tight like I did you’ll be WAY off snd ruin everything! I can be too gentle cuz im afraid to break shit.
  • Anyway , the springs do tighten up greatly snd THEN stop only IF you removed the adjustment ball. I wish I had pics or videos of this part. there can be some confusion here. I just know you have to tighten them more than I thought but not too much and it is because I loosened the lash adjustment balls first to prevent damage. I won't skip this next time either. but it did take a day away from me to figure out.
  • you do need to compress the spring.
  • Side note setting the lash is annoying w/o a helper. you CAN barley rotate the engine with the car on the ground with a ratchet 19mm 12 point.
  • also DO NOT USE THE CAM to rotate unless the belt is NOT connected.

  • priming can be done by cycling the key on and off snd letting the lift pump work
  • (you can check the injector seas for leaks now too if you have the cam cap off still.)
  • you have to do more than this if the tandem pump was completely removed or replaced like mine
  • To prime used vCDS engine group 35 I think chitty says no less than 6 times, I did it a dozen. I want my new tandem pump lube well.
  • Priming can snd SHOULD be done With an hand pump or VCDS
  • it took a long time to start after words I was a little worried at first, but I knew the air was trapped in my lines as my tandem pump was brand new. I think the injectors were probably drying too cuz the car had been sitting for about 2 weeks at this point,

  • Prime oil filter by dumping oil on it. I added some zppd plus and my left over engin Assembly oil.
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  • tighten the oil filter housing down
  • put the cam cap on
  • triple check everything, rotation area, that all hoses are connected with spring clamps ect
  • fire it up!!!
  • run the engine for 20-30 minutes at 1800-2800 rpm.
  • dump oil change filter
  • not sure if ill drive 500 miles and change or 1000.
  • that basically completes my half assed DIY.
  • I mostly did this because I haven’t seen one place that has The procedures for both the camshaft and timing belt at the same time, with the exception of this great video.
    Given that cam failure is such a common occurrence on the pump Duce engines snd s good time to check or change it is when doing s timing bet, I figured this will probably help somebody out one day.
    If nothing else it will help me do it again in the future lol

End notes
  • I did not start out with this in mind, but halfway through I thought it’s a good idea.
    There is plenty I left out, but it shoold be all the important steps covered here. If you can’t figure the simpler stuff out in the beginning without reading every DIY your skills are porbbaly NOT up to par for this Job. Still I’d encourage you that you CAN do it, find every DIY organize em better than I did. After that it’s just a matter of working slow snd double check everything you see. All the big parts are covered.

  • While doing this job I also decided to swap all the fuel hoses cuz one was leaking. I flushed the power steering, changed the thermostat and housing.I took the opportunity with sn empty coolant system to design a block heater. I did my thermostat and the thermostat housing, I installed a new coolant bottle with new coolant lines. I cleaned up the PRIOR EGR delete. I actually found a hose with a bout a quarter is Nick at it from chafing, that sucker was gonna leave me stranded with a catastrophic failure! I finished cleaning up my custom built HID retrofit (yup I’m proud of that lol) I also spent a lot of time cleanin the engine bay. I pinged the oil gallery passages, replaced injector number 3’s nipple because it was discovered to be broken, I replaced the motor Mounts. I cleaned up the triple inlet pipe in the intercooler pipes. Check the turbo for shaft play and drained much of the oil out of the inner cooler as I could with the turkey baster. I did the valve cover gasket as well. I want to replace the seals on the IC but I think I’m a do the bigger FMIC with ALH upper pipe and 1.8t lower pipe.

  • All in all it took me about 2 weeks in the comfort of my home garage.nice quarantine time haha Covid is a game. it was a lot of work , but as noted I did many other little things along the way that really slowed me down. One thing I’ll say, is working all day and having to cook for yourself and clean up dishes snd a garage sucks lol! Sure is nice when other people feed me. I’m gratefully blessed
    I would also like to give a shot out to cascade germain for giving me this stage 2 cam and all sorts of extras with the kit!
    Also a HUGE thanks day & night rebuild for answering my annoying perfectionist questions! Thanks josh! Thank you mike for the manual I still owe you cash for that!
    Last but not least Darrell , thanks tools, the engine hoist, and your plethora of general knowledge thanks brother!


11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
running great cold and hot ! KW drops to 1 when warm. Use the tools ! I’ve had to make zero adjustment.
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Warm, IQ and diversion look good.
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So far I’ve driven 67 miles snd the gauge is still on full. I remember l/hr at idle should be a small number , any comments on that? Thanks !
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