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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The lower pulley should have a triple square screw.

My triple square spins in the hole, way too small, the next size up does not even engage, too big.

If I get an allen wrench that is close in size and spin it; it does feel like if it were the correct size it will engage.

ANY possibility being an 05.5 it does not use the triple square?

TIA-
John
 

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Yes, it should be a 10mm triple square (12 point). If you can verify that it's a 12 point, one of them should fit. Count the points, if there are 12 points it's definitely a triple square. It's sometimes called triple square because the points are even and not curved like torx.

If not, take a picture and I can see what you're talking about. Even the 2006 BEW (older generation) Beetle and Golf should also use triple square instead of allen bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, I will photograph the allen bolts and the timing belt.

It seems; the only reason that the motor mount has to come out is to remove the tensioner....correct?
Otherwise you would not have to touch it.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now that the week started, I do not have a lot of time.

However, motor mount is out, new water pump, idler installed.

Before I install the belt I want to wash down the area with carb clean.

I did try to install the belt, it is real tight.

I applaud you guys that documented your progress, I realize how much time that takes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Chipping away at it, 90 minutes at a time.

Belt is on, rotated engine, checked out

Engine mount is back on and torqued to spec.

Without question the easiest way to get the belt on is slipping the belt on with the idler removed and sliding it on with the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All back together. Seems to idle better.

Got 54mpg this morning according to readout.

Two issues both from digital readout:

"speed exceeded over 0 mph"
"check coolant"....I will check connector, temp is fine right at 190. I'll also continue to monitor coolant level.

CCBB- the puddle lamps now work when the key is turned off.

I will post the pictures tonight of the belt and allen bolts.
 

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if you ask me its easiest to get the timing belt on with the tensioner on and pinned in its fully retracted position. if everything is otherwise good, (crank lock installed, lower roller installed, cam pulley bolts loosened and tensioner installed and pinned fully retracted with the triangle pin) the belt will slip right over the water pump pulley. you can then check to see if the cam bolts are in the middle of their range and not off to one side or the other.. if so, you then can easily slip the belt back off the waterpump and adjust the cam sprocket one way or the other to get it in the center of its travel.

but thats me, and I have plenty of these PD timing belts behind me..

Congrats on getting it on and running successfully. you did know about the hole behind the fender liner for getting at the motor mount bracket, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
if you ask me its easiest to get the timing belt on with the tensioner on and pinned in its fully retracted position. if everything is otherwise good, (crank lock installed, lower roller installed, cam pulley bolts loosened and tensioner installed and pinned fully retracted with the triangle pin) the belt will slip right over the water pump pulley. you can then check to see if the cam bolts are in the middle of their range and not off to one side or the other.. if so, you then can easily slip the belt back off the waterpump and adjust the cam sprocket one way or the other to get it in the center of its travel.

but thats me, and I have plenty of these PD timing belts behind me..

Congrats on getting it on and running successfully. you did know about the hole behind the fender liner for getting at the motor mount bracket, right?
That is another good suggestion, at 230k I'll try. This one had 155k on the belt.....previous owner got real lucky.
 
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