VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched this site for a long time keeping an eye out for just the perfect situation but couldnt find anything. So I figured I should start a thread, Ive got a 2004 Golf with virtually no power, Like a lot of uson here.Its a 1.9 TDI BEW I believe, 250k Auto, hatchback) Anytime before 190* it wont go over 25mph (every time never resets apon restart). Once it gets to opp temp it has virtually no power, its a month of Sundays to get to 55mph. There is a CEL for "no communication to ABS module" but thats a recent problem and it has had a bad ABS unit for a long time. (I recently put a new one on, but now it wont communicate to reprogram Code 18057 Databus Drivetrain missing message from ABS) So thats another problem all together (although I wouldnt mind some help with that also)..

As far as the ultra low power goes. I have a Autel Maxisys scanner and every thing looks normal..
*Boots actual vs specified is almost exactly the same, max's out about 20PSI
*I have Removed CAT (no difference)
*I checked the intake with a camera scope, its only about 5-8% clogged. Its has just a small amount of soot throughout.
*The electronic throttle flapper is working fine (fully opens and closes)
*I checked the EGR dashpot vacuum valves, all working fine
*Turbo vanes working smoothly both by hand and vacuum
*Swapped N75 no difference
*Turbo has a small amount of play though not much and spins freely
*Changed intercooler Original had a crack (did have some oil though not what I would consider a ton)
*Changed fuel filter (took the old one and drained it back out through intake side, was only nominally dirty)
*Has a good amount of vacuum stored in the lines when I dissconnect the line, I can hear it whoosh
*Normal amount of smoke nothing out of the ordinary
*I can hear the turbo spooling up sounds good
*Normal cranking sound (no easy crank cylinders as in non with low compression)
*New Mass airflow
*No difference with air cleaner lifted (free flow)
*No blow fueses
*I pulled the metal lines for the EGR they looked really clean as well
*Turbo temp pretty normal 474.8F at 1800 after driving up and down some hills
*Turbo Hoses firmly clicked in place
*Idles smooth

It does have a small leak in the exhaust manifold but its not all that big yet. Still hold pressure well enough.
I was also wondering about the "Atmospheric, Pressure" it reads 999.6 at all times. I am wondering if this may may have something to do with it?
It seems to be building boost just fine but has no power when you pull out. I see the cyl deviation at
at 900 Rpms (at 190" temp is)
Cyl 1.... -1.06
Cyl 2.... -0.42
Cyl 3.... 0.38
Cyl 4.... 1.11
at 2982 Rpms
Cyl 1.... -64
Cyl 2.... -24
Cyl 3.... -46
Cyl 4.... -47
I've looked but couldnt really find much on the Deviation, whats good and whats bad, or a tleast what the spec is or even if it would give it ultra low pwer without a CEL.
So... Thats the story of my turd. I am about to push it off a cliff into a river. So any help would be great~!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I've searched this site for a long time keeping an eye out for just the perfect situation but couldnt find anything. So I figured I should start a thread, Ive got a 2004 Golf with virtually no power, Like a lot of uson here.Its a 1.9 TDI BEW I believe, 250k Auto, hatchback) Anytime before 190* it wont go over 25mph (every time never resets apon restart). Once it gets to opp temp it has virtually no power, its a month of Sundays to get to 55mph. There is a CEL for "no communication to ABS module" but thats a recent problem and it has had a bad ABS unit for a long time. (I recently put a new one on, but now it wont communicate to reprogram Code 18057 Databus Drivetrain missing message from ABS) So thats another problem all together (although I wouldnt mind some help with that also)..

As far as the ultra low power goes. I have a Autel Maxisys scanner and every thing looks normal..
*Boots actual vs specified is almost exactly the same, max's out about 20PSI
*I have Removed CAT (no difference)
*I checked the intake with a camera scope, its only about 5-8% clogged. Its has just a small amount of soot throughout.
*The electronic throttle flapper is working fine (fully opens and closes)
*I checked the EGR dashpot vacuum valves, all working fine
*Turbo vanes working smoothly both by hand and vacuum
*Swapped N75 no difference
*Turbo has a small amount of play though not much and spins freely
*Changed intercooler Original had a crack (did have some oil though not what I would consider a ton)
*Changed fuel filter (took the old one and drained it back out through intake side, was only nominally dirty)
*Has a good amount of vacuum stored in the lines when I dissconnect the line, I can hear it whoosh
*Normal amount of smoke nothing out of the ordinary
*I can hear the turbo spooling up sounds good
*Normal cranking sound (no easy crank cylinders as in non with low compression)
*New Mass airflow
*No difference with air cleaner lifted (free flow)
*No blow fueses
*I pulled the metal lines for the EGR they looked really clean as well
*Turbo temp pretty normal 474.8F at 1800 after driving up and down some hills
*Turbo Hoses firmly clicked in place
*Idles smooth

It does have a small leak in the exhaust manifold but its not all that big yet. Still hold pressure well enough.
I was also wondering about the "Atmospheric, Pressure" it reads 999.6 at all times. I am wondering if this may may have something to do with it?
It seems to be building boost just fine but has no power when you pull out. I see the cyl deviation at
at 900 Rpms (at 190" temp is)
Cyl 1.... -1.06
Cyl 2.... -0.42
Cyl 3.... 0.38
Cyl 4.... 1.11
at 2982 Rpms
Cyl 1.... -64
Cyl 2.... -24
Cyl 3.... -46
Cyl 4.... -47
I've looked but couldnt really find much on the Deviation, whats good and whats bad, or a tleast what the spec is or even if it would give it ultra low pwer without a CEL.
So... Thats the story of my turd. I am about to push it off a cliff into a river. So any help would be great~!
Based on your comments above, a few things to look at;
Have the battery CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) tested. NAPA or others will do this for free.
Check the wiring harness connections located on the firewall below the windshield. Remove the plastic tray which covers this area to gain access. On occasion, there can be poor connectivity and simply removing and replacing the connectors will help. It would also be a good idea to clean the connections with some electrical contact cleaner while you have them apart.
Check the quality of the fuel in your tank, is it fresh? It would be a good idea to add a bottle of Power Service fuel supplement to the tank while you are at it.
Check the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor.
Check the lift pump (in the fuel tank, access hatch is under the rear seat) operation. When you turn the key to "on" position, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds. It also has a built in filter screen which could become clogged.

Let us know how you get on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
91 Posts
Total Pressure = Atmospheric pressure + boost pressure. The ecu looks at total pressure to determine if you're at the max boost. If the ecu can't communicate with the sensors to determine either, or get a number within set limits, it go into default safe mode, limp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Howdy all, I've had the DPF light on my scramble for as far back as week (I was intended to take it on the motorway to clear) however today the shine attachment and motor administration light likewise came on (sparkle plugs are blazing, the other 2 are strong), since these came on the vehicle is presently in limp mode. I took it to my nearby carport who affirmed the mistake code was "recovery length", he attempted to clear it yet couldn't do as such. I was prescribed to get the DPF eliminated and cleaned which will settle the mistakes at an expense of £380 in addition to VAT. Is this right and will this settle the issues at present being capable? Any counsel would be abundantly valued.



nox
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
91 Posts
Ok. Stab in the dark, maybe dim grey...

Ignore below the ***, missed where you said required boost matched actual boost. Maybe it will help somebody else, though.

For diesels it's all about fuel. More fuel, more go fast! So for you maybe look at injectors, fuel pump... see low power thread?!

Couple of random things. Check air filter and snow filter if you have one. My snow filter was full of bugs pine needles, gravel dirt. You need air too!

I just replaced my 10mm fuel pump with 11mm and, yeah last 10% of pedal noticeably more power. Monday I get bigger injectors installed. You already have 11mm with auto trans, I believe. There is a 12mm available. Upgrading should give more volume, more pressure, better atomization of fuel. Just more money!!!

Good luck

*
You said it seemed like adequate vacuum, you had a "woosh." Trouble is vacuum is a tricky thing. It might hold vacuum up to a certain point but leaks down to an inHg where it holds again. It HAS to have no leaks! You need to put a a vacuum guage in line to check it. A plastic tee and a short piece of hose is maybe 5 bucks, quid, w/e at your local auto parts store.

You need close to 28"Hg. And it needs to hold it for a time. If your mitymac or engine vacuum pump can get close to that, your probably ok. If you're in the low 20's, no good.

2nd - For me, my car tripped CEL limp mode over-boost constantly because the turbo was just plain worn out. The internal cam that pushes a ring that rotates the vanes was worn off as was the ring. So it just couldn't adjust properly to stop overboost.

When I bought a used engine with its own turbo, my problems went away.

For you if for whatever reason - low vacuum, turbo cam that won't turn adequately, sooty turbo that binds the vanes... You could be getting low boost.

Have you seen the low power, limp mode thread with very detailed instructions?

Best wishes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I'd pull the intake manifold and clean it out. Mine had similar issues, slow rev, wouldn't go over 50mph, wouldn't rev past 3800. Pulled the intake manifold and cleaned it out. Probably 3 cups of soot came out. The intake manifold may look "fine" but if the swirl flaps have soot build up and don't move freely, your engine is only pulling 2/3 or less of the air it needs. I ripped the swirl flaps out when I cleaned the manifold and it helped fixed all of those problems.

However after everything, the car started having hard starts. I couldn't figure it out, but I chalked it up to the fact that the last time I fueled up was in November. I drove it till it was almost empty, filled up fresh fuel and now it starts/runs so much quieter.

Clean intake mani, get some fresh fuel.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top