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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am looking for troubleshooting advice. I recently replace the turbo vane actuator due to a failure to hold vacuum and vehicle was in limp mode. Now that all the injectors have been reinstalled in the same position as they were removed, I tried to prime the fuel system by activating the fuel pump on several attempts up to 60 seconds each attempt. I could not get the car to start. The car was stored for two years in a cool dry warehouse. I believe the fuel should still be good. I decided to take it to the VW dealership to have them troubleshoot the starting issue. I do suspected immediately that the dealership is trying to pad their wallets when I first go a call about needing new glow plugs. The glow plugs were never touched. Now I received a call where the dealership is informing me that there is a fuel pressure issue and they will need to redo the entire fuel system. A cost of at least six thousand dollars. I am now returning to the dealership to have my car towed back home so I can try to troubleshoot the problem myself. I do believe that the dealership is honest and I need to verify the fuel pressure issue myself. When I used VCDS, I did hear the pump operate but I was not able to get any readings as to the actual pressure. I am wondering if there is still air in the fuel system.
Any links and suggestions would be appreciated that will help me resolve this problem.
 

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First posts normally go in introductions else you could get a free fix and we never see you again!!!

Forum Rules and Guidelines

If you have VCDS what error codes are coming back after an AutoScan and checking systems out?

Any problems search TDI Wiki as that covers write ups and forum posts.

Please add 2010 to your car spec then we won't get confused?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks, I am new to posting. I have not yet used the VCDS for scanning the pressure. I did find some suggestions to first check the system using a vacuum pump to view how easy it is to draw fuel first starting from the outlet of the fuel filter and working the way down if fuel does not flow easily towards the fuel tank pump. The diesel fuel is a little more than two years old but the car was stored in a cool dry environment so I believe that the issue should not be that the fuel is gumming up the lines and pumps. I think I will try this step first. I can hear the pump when I was using VCDS to prime the system. The dealership only diagnosed that there was 0 bar pressure using the software.


Not but no least, my name is David and I have had this vehicle since 2010. I am trying to get the car running so that it can be returned on the VW via the buy back program. I really enjoyed using the car up to the point where I had a failure of the Turbo Vane actuator in 2016. I then put the car in storage waiting for VW to finalize the terms of the buy back. The car remained in storage for too long and since the deadline was approaching, I replace the actuator several weeks ago. Had I known two years ago from this forum the procedure was as simple as removing the valve cover, I would have repaired the vehicle along time ago and I probably would not now be having an issue according to VW of zero pressure. I hope the fix will be straight forward once I diagnose the issue. The dealership did very little diagnosis and recommended replacement of the entire fuel delivery system at a cost of more than 6 grand.
Warm regards to all of the members of this forum.
 

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It sounds like you only want to fix this problem so you can return this Jetta on the buy back scheme.

If you have VCDS then search Ross-Tech forum. If you want to post a question about your problem then you need to register your cable with Ross-Tech. If you don't and they find you have a pirate cable you will be black flagged and be moved into the all of shame.

You post a question along with a full AutoScan, whether there are any error codes or not. There is more useful system info in there, how the car is equipped and configured.
 

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Was there any stabilizer or anti-microbial additive in the fuel when it was stored? Even with those added diesel is really only good for a year when stored under the best conditions. If it was me I would drain that fuel and try it again with fresh.
 

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Sounds like an issue I'm having. 06. TDI NO START. I'm not a mechanic. Just don't give up. Keep chipping away at the stone, we are on the right path. Good luck.
 

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If you need to verify, glow plugs it's an easy procedure get a test light put the cable on the positive side the battery remove the plug wire and touch directly to the plug glow plug if it's good you will get a light do all four. To check if your getting a sensor to your glow plug plug a test light in to the ground side battery touch the wir connector to wire turn the key switch on you should get a light your verifying you have a functioning glow plug and then verifying that you're getting a read from the ECU to the glow plug kill two birds with one stone eliminate glow plug is a possible issue
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thank you for the tip on performing these simple steps. Here is what I have discovered with just testing the #1 glow plug. When the clamp is connect to the positive terminal and the test light is applied to the outer ring of the plug, the test lamp lights up. However when I switch the position of the test lamp clamp to the ground and I turn on the key and test the center pole of the plug, the light does light up but very dim, I can hear a contact shut off soon after and I do not get any more power. I assume this is one issue that needs to be resolved. Am I hearing the contact noise from the ECU? I assume the ECU is located near the firewall of my vehicle. As far as as the interior dash lights are concerned the glow plug symbol does go out within a second or so of switching on the ignition. I did not see any error codes when scanning the car about an issue with the glow plugs. I would like to try with my VOM to actually measure the current but it seems that the contacts disengage too early to get a reading. I think I may be getting closer to resolving what appears to be a glow plug problem and I hope that once this is resolved, that the car will start. Thank you for your advice and any further help would be greatly appreciated. David


Follow up from post above: At this point I do not believe I have a glow plug issue. I was able to check with borrowed VCDS that there is a zero bar reading after the HPFP although when I loosened one of the fuel feeds to the injector, there was a little bit of pressure inside. Now I am scratching my head as to how I can determine the cause of little to no pressure. There were no metal shavings found in the fuel filter and there was no prior indication that there was a failing component when the car was last driven some 29 months ago other than the fact the VNT became defective and was recently changed. No error codes indicating a possible malfunction of any fuel sensor on the common rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hooray, hooray! I resolved the issue. Car now starts. Although I primed the system more than three times by running both the Auxiliary pump and tank pump, there was apparently air still in the common fuel rail. This time I loosened the nut on the metal fuel line going to the injector on cylinder #4 and ran the electric pumps letting fuel spill out of the fuel rail. I reconnected the fitting and after less than 5 seconds of cranking the engine, the motor ran after more than two years of sitting. I am so happy! Now I can complain to the dealership who charged me a $175.00 diagnostic fee, telling me it would cost a minimum of $6000 to purge the fuel system and resolve the no start situation. BTW: I informed them when I brought in the vehicle that there may be air in the system.
 

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Usually, anything you tell a dealer they will completely ignore. They would much rather just start replacing parts on your dime. They were wrongfully assuming your HPFP crapped it's self and the fix for that is replacement of the entire fuel system, about $6,000 to $8,000. If you had let them proceed, they would have replaced a wheel barrel full of good parts and your car would still have not run with the possibility of additional damage from parts not being installed correctly.

Definitely go back and ask for a refund of the diagnosis fee since there diagnosis was so completely wrong. If they are honest like you said, then they must be just plain old imbeciles that have no business under a hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was fortunate enough to find a pdf. from VW that gives all the information about the 2.0 litre diesel motor that I have. I would have been better off with a factory manual. I was surprised that the information that I came across on this and other sites giving instructions about priming the fuel system using VCDS never one mentioned having to loosen up one of the injector feeder lines to purge air from the system. It mentioned that it may take up to three minutes of running the pumps to prime. In other words the recommendation was to cycle the pumps three times up to 60 seconds. I guess that some of the fuel during this procedure would return via the fuel filter and back to the tank where the air would be purged. As far as the various controls on the common rail and on the High Pressure Fuel Pump, everything is explained in the pdf. by VW that was intended as a training manual. On my HPFP there are two electrically controlled items, a temperature sensor and a metering valve that is connected to the pump with two torx screws. There are two additional sensors or valves on either side of the common fuel rail. It was necessary to use VCDS software to determine my actual pressure that prompted me to again loosen the line to see if fuel was actual passing through the HPFP while operating the tank pump and auxiliary fuel pump.
I would have been much more prepared to follow a path for diagnosing my no start issues if I had a manual to go by.
 
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