VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Hi all, i just bought my first VW (06 jetta 1.9 TDI w/DSG) a few weeks ago w/114k.

When i bought my car i thought the transmission wasnt as it should be but ive heard DSGs take getting used to. Well i brought it in to the dealer for free inspection and they claim my DMF was failing (did notice the noise after knowing what to listen for even though it wasnt as bad as some here have had and car had slight free rev at lower rpm, also trans leaking. I didnt notice much if any leaking when i took of the bottom skid cover when i changed oil. I figured from reading around that the DMF should get changed out sooner than later so i tackled it yesterday with a DMF i bought from Aaron @ Boraparts.com.

Bad news - it seems worse than it ever has...
At first the car seemed fine pulling it out of the garage but then when i tried to drive away the tranny didnt want to shift smoothly until high revs and between shifting in/out of gears (mainly 2nd and 3rd) there is a grinding/vibrating sound and car doesnt feel like it has much power, keeps cutting out at about 2000rpm like a severe hiccup. At first i thought it was just the ECU relearning as it appeared to get better as i was shifting into sport and tiptronic and back to drive few times and then running good (about 5 miles of driving after fresh DMF replace), still seemed little under powered but didnt want to be pushing so maybe it was just me not givin it gas but was shifting good. Parked for a while and then it started to do the sever hiccup again next time i drove, and is still but it only seems to do it when its coldest (most noticeable even though it seems like its still weaker when warm..taking longer than norm to get up to speed) I did loose small amount of tranny fluid (1/6liter) at very very most, tried to remove the 3 bolts that held on the tranny cooler but they were all stripped from a previous job so i attempted to remove one of the hoses pinched but still lost little bit, pluged with finger and replaced hose. What i did notice about leaking trans fluid (prob what dealership noticed) was it looked as though there was little wetness around trans filter housing as maybe bad seal but know i cant check fluid and prob shouldnt replace filter either without changing fluid all together, never has been a puddle.

Engine light came on but it was just for MAF and since cleared code. I did notice when i took the flywheel out of the packaging (new, LuK oem upgraded DMF) before installing that it had some play in it when rotating it, i would say about an inch but figured that was fine as it was new and threw it in, the one i took out had about half that but figured it was grinding/binding inside?? Reading around after it sounds as though 10mm max play is allowed, maybe the new one was less than an inch but for sure more than 10mm. Do you have any idea what might be my issue, bad new flywheel, loss of tranny fluid, something else??? Any input would be great.

Also i was thinking i should change the trany fluid but need a Vag-com or VCDS to perform, is there anyone that has one that could mail me one and ill mail back or borrow if theres anyone in the area, i live in north branch minnesota and cant afford one as i blew all my spare money on the DMF and wifes pissed i made car worse after spending $$.

Im mechanically inclined for the most part, mech. engineer and always grew up working on motors and small engines but this is way way over my head and am frustrated but open for any ideas..

EDIT: the first time check engine light came on i had it scanned and it read P0101 - Mass air flow vol..., and P0299 - unidentified fuel and air metering error from generic reader. cleared codes and rescanned after wiggling MAF connection and got P0102 for mass or vol airflow circuit low input, cleared all errors and check engine light just came back on after about 3 start-stops totaling about 30 miles.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks all for reading.
Josh
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
Is it possible that something was removed or disconnected and not put back?

Bucking around 2000 rpm is normally a major boost leak like a hose that popped off. Do you feel as if the problem with the engine or transmission?

A tiny bit of lost fluid shouldn't cause that.

Is it possible that you have a defect part? Maybe but not as likely.

What other work was done on the car at the same time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I disconnected the MAF and car ran good, no severe hiccup and no rpm jump when shifting (when the grinding/virbation noise was noticed).
I needed to shift using tiptronic though as D would rev high before shifting and it seems i might be in limp mode?-low power. Shifting seems really smooth in tiptronic and now just seems problem with MAF?
I plan to do a trans fluid/filter change within a week and clean MAF and reconnect prob tonight after work to see if this helps.
-----------------------------------------------
I took car out for lunch and car was shifting in D just fine, i did hear what seemed like a leak in a hose, inspected and it looked as though my lower intercooler hose was not fully connected. as i was in parking lot i didnt have tools to remover lower skid cover but will reattach when i get home and clean MAF.
I noticed the hissing/leak up to about 2000rpm after that it was like a sudden burst of power above the 2000 rpm mark
EDIT: no other work was done at that time - airfilter, oil, oil filter and fuel filter were replaced a week prior.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
So are you home yet? IMHO, the loose hose does sound plausible but I've never disconnected the MAF to test for a major boost leak. Please let us know if disconnecting the MAF causes the engine to run smoothly w/the leak!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Alright, home and think car is back to normal. The loose intercooler hose below the airbox was out of its socket and i connected in and cleaned MAF sensor w/CNC cleaner and car works great. I didnt have cruise control earlier and after this, cruise is working again too, shifting smooth and when it should. Thanks chitty for the help/recommendations, next step change trans fluid and ill be set for a while, till TB service is needed, or camshaft :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I used the procedure from tdiclub.com to change the trans fluid and filter in a DSG transmission. I saved over approx. $250 as compared to the VW dealership. The trans fluid costs about $15.53/liter and you'll need 5 liters. That's approx. $82.30. You also need the filter. I had to get that from the dealer. You can make your own filler tube too and save at least another $190 with parts I bought from Lowes and Home Depot. The procedure from the dealer was quoted at $350.

I have the same problem with the dual mass flywheel(dmf) rattling. How hard was it to remove the transmission to remove the dmf and can you give me a procedure list and tools required to do this? Thanks.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top