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Super Moderator
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209 Posts

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Super Moderator
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209 Posts
The signal timing is a big thing for the engine running at all, so I would be cautious about going in there without the lockout tool. It doesn't take much crank rotation of a crank journal that diameter to be way too far off! Just a smidge off and you could be screwed. Also rear main seals very rarely leak. I guess if I absolutely needed to be in there for the DMF I might go ahead and replace the seal too. But if the DMF seems like it could wait a while I might go with the simple bracket removal to gain access and just remove the sensor and repair that. Then again I am no spring chickn motivated to tackle bigger jobs as I used to be,. unless I have to. :)
 

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Super Moderator
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You're welcome Joe, yes sir leave threads dry and clean, If threads are lubed up with anything the bolts can over-stretch. I usually use an alternating star pattern and step up the torque value in stages as you mentioned. Mark the bolt heads and flywheel before the final 1/4 turn. That way you know. Fyi, it feels like a lot of torque on the bolts. Also, some people reuse the TTY bolts but that's a lot to ask of them. I would go with new bolts. The aluminum plate looks a little beat up but you should be able to flatten it and use it again. Its needs to be in there because it's may be a shim of sorts for the stack up etc. I'm not positive but don't leave it out for sure.

Glad to see you're replacing the DMF. Good call. The Luk is a good choice.
 
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