The sensor mounts into the rear main seal housing. According to this video you "should" be able to remove the oil filter bracket to gain access to removing the CPS and proceed to replace or solder repair what you are needing to. Hope the video helps. If you find things are configured differently may need to do a little more digging. Let me know.
The signal timing is a big thing for the engine running at all, so I would be cautious about going in there without the lockout tool. It doesn't take much crank rotation of a crank journal that diameter to be way too far off! Just a smidge off and you could be screwed. Also rear main seals very rarely leak. I guess if I absolutely needed to be in there for the DMF I might go ahead and replace the seal too. But if the DMF seems like it could wait a while I might go with the simple bracket removal to gain access and just remove the sensor and repair that. Then again I am no spring chickn motivated to tackle bigger jobs as I used to be,. unless I have to.
You're welcome Joe, yes sir leave threads dry and clean, If threads are lubed up with anything the bolts can over-stretch. I usually use an alternating star pattern and step up the torque value in stages as you mentioned. Mark the bolt heads and flywheel before the final 1/4 turn. That way you know. Fyi, it feels like a lot of torque on the bolts. Also, some people reuse the TTY bolts but that's a lot to ask of them. I would go with new bolts. The aluminum plate looks a little beat up but you should be able to flatten it and use it again. Its needs to be in there because it's may be a shim of sorts for the stack up etc. I'm not positive but don't leave it out for sure.
Glad to see you're replacing the DMF. Good call. The Luk is a good choice.
VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum
A forum community dedicated to Audi, Volkswagen, Porsche, and all turbo diesel owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, TDI, maintenance, and more!