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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I lifted rear wheels one by one just to try new jack, and noticed that both wheel do not spin freely. I could turn each one with just a couple of fingers, but there was obvious resistance and metal-on-metal scratching sound. I can not say for sure, but it looked like braking pad was touching the rotor in both cases. All other cars I had never had this.
Notes:
No, parking brake was not applied (I know that it is safety issue, but how else I would find it out).
Yes, I read about “rear caliper self adjustersâ€￾, but not sure is that would cause it.
Is it normal/expected? Please, you opinions.
Thanks
 

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Common problem. it's not the adjusters. from the manual:

brake hard 3 times, apply parking brake 3 times and release. At each caliper measure the distance between the little arm the cable hooks into and the stop that it comes up against when the E-brake is released. The dimension should not fall short of 1MM or exceed 3MMs. It should not drag but a little sound and touching is normal.

The easy way to adjust the cable is to dremel the rear access hole instead of removing the center console like so; i forget who took these pictures but i had them saved , you turn a nut inside and it adjusts the handle.





 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank a lot!!!
I have done what was recommended and will check results over the weekend.
 

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If replacing pads and rotor do you tighten or loose?

If i just replaced the pads and rotors do I tighten or loosen the adjustment nut if the pads are in contact and wheels don't spin freely(one in console)?

The "Bently" indicates to tighten but if this tightens the e brake then wont this make the pad contact even more?
 

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Pump the brake 3 times hard and pull the parking brake hard 3 times. Then adjust the nut.

If you tighten the nut it'll make pad contact more, if you loosen the nut it'll make pad contact less. But after you do the rear brakes you pressed back the brake piston so the position is reset. If it's fine after doing the brakes I would leave it alone.
 
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