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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a jetta with a broken timing belt and have been slowly picking at it, the head is almost ready to come off.

I read most of the instructions on the FAQ on pulling a head, it brought up one question and I need some advise.

The FAQ said something about pulling the cam first, is this necessary or should I just pull all the head bolts and lift it off?

Would it be easier to pull the turbo before or after pulling the head? I've disconnected all the oil lines and will get the support bracket before pulling it, any advice?

Any other general advice on pulling it?

here is what 184,000 miles on a timing belt looks like:
http://stuff.jfettigmachines.com/tdi/02 jetta/tn_IMG_2421.jpg
http://stuff.jfettigmachines.com/tdi/02 jetta/tn_IMG_2405.jpg


Thanks,
Jon
 

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Wow, I thought I had wrung mine out pretty good at 120K miles (manual). Good thing I found tdiclub. Changed my attitude from "fix it when it breaks" to "fix it before it breaks". I didn't know about interference engines yet!
 

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they want you to pull the cam first because no matter where you have the cam rotated in its bearing caps, there will be at least one valve open. and that increases the chances of that valve getting bent as you wrestle the head off of the car. if you pull the cam first, the valve springs will close all of the valvesas you lift the cam off the head. this protects them during removal.

no, you do not HAVE to do it, but its not a bad idea if you want to be extra careful.. these heads get heavy and are awkward to manipulate as you remove them from the engine.. especially if you leave the intake or turbo attached while you do so.

clear as mud?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Perfect, that is clear. I'll see if I can get the turbo off easily enough before I remove the head and cam if not, it sounds like it can come with.

Thanks,
Jon
 

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they want you to pull the cam first because no matter where you have the cam rotated in its bearing caps, there will be at least one valve open. and that increases the chances of that valve getting bent as you wrestle the head off of the car. if you pull the cam first, the valve springs will close all of the valvesas you lift the cam off the head. this protects them during removal.

no, you do not HAVE to do it, but its not a bad idea if you want to be extra careful.. these heads get heavy and are awkward to manipulate as you remove them from the engine.. especially if you leave the intake or turbo attached while you do so.

clear as mud?
Your notes have been added to the writeup to be more clear, thanks!
 

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Glad I could help :)

is there a link to what I just added to? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I didn't get the head off yet, I did pull the turbo, coolant flange and other parts to make room. I need to make a hermohanger yet before I get too crazy, I'd like to use my engine hoist but it seems to settle when I need it most to hang for a period of time.

A question came up that I didn't see the answer to on the head pulling article nor the haynes manual I have.
Do I need to remove the IP sprocket to get the rear timing cover off?
Do I even need to take the rear timing cover off?

Any info would be great!

Thanks,
Jon
 

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You could have left the turbo in the car and just push it back out of the way. Just remove the intake that's what I do.

If a valve is bent to bad it will not retract in the head with the cam removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't get the head off yet, I did pull the turbo, coolant flange and other parts to make room. I need to make a hermohanger yet before I get too crazy, I'd like to use my engine hoist but it seems to settle when I need it most to hang for a period of time.

A question came up that I didn't see the answer to on the head pulling article nor the haynes manual I have.
Do I need to remove the IP sprocket to get the rear timing cover off?
Do I even need to take the rear timing cover off?

Any info would be great!

Thanks,
Jon
Anyone?

Thanks,
Jon
 

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no you do not need to pull the rear cover or the IP sprocket to pull the cylinder head. you do need to remove the two small 10mm (or is it 8mm) nuts on the front side and back side of the head that are attached to that cover. they are easy to miss and will easily crack/break the back TB cover if you forget them. you will also need to remove the cam pulley, but I figure you know that already.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update on my progress: I got the tool kit today and pulled the head. It looks like 5 valves made contact, only cylinders 1,2,3, not 4.

CCBB: here is something that should get added to your write-up:

Frank asked that the stud gets removed. The head comes out just fine with it on there if its lifted, then moved out, I almost didn't see that I needed to remove it and tried to lift it off with the tensioner and nut still on there. Luckily it was good and stuck down to the block then I realized this.

Looks like 5 valves made contact:

Cylinder 2 took it the worst:


Lifters:




Now to decide between a Franko6 rebuild and a metalman new head kit:
http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=300&categoryId=74
Likely going to frank, its going to be cheaper.

Jon
 

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Great pics! So you should remove the tensioner stud before pulling the head? What tool can you use for that? Is it because of TB damage or just for pulling the head?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
not necessarily but the tensioner definitely has to go before pulling the head.
I'm not even sure what tool to use to remove the stud, Frank had asked to remove it before I send him the head.

Jon
 

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not necessarily but the tensioner definitely has to go before pulling the head.
I'm not even sure what tool to use to remove the stud, Frank had asked to remove it before I send him the head.

Jon
Jon,

The tensioner stud can be removed from the head by using two nuts chinched together on the stud, then use an open end wrench to turn the stud out of the head. It should not be in there very tight. Removing that stud and the cam makes removal of the head 'straight up'.

Also, you can remove the turbo, but in my opinion, that is the hard way. I don't like blindly removing the exhaust nuts. There are four bolts; one holding the bottom support for the turbo and three on the down pipe, which I'll agree, aren't the most fun to remove, but with the right extensions, come off well enough.

But try about 4 different ways to take it off.. eventually, you'll settle on one.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm finishing assembly today. The head is installed and all the timing is done. I just need to put the turbo, intake, and all the other stuff that came out, back in.

One question that came to mind but I didn't see it anywhere: Do I need to run break in oil or do anything of that manner?

Thanks,
Jon
 
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