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2006 Jetta TDI BRM DSG. I just replaced my factory rear pads at 81k miles. Everything was perfect until then.
Now I'm experiencing rear brake problems. First trip with the fresh pads down I-70 in Colo got the rear brakes so hot that they were smoking by the time my wife made it down to Silverthorne. Since then I have adjusted the park brake so that the calipers reset all the way to the arm stops, flushed the entire system with new brake fluid, and reset each rear caliper piston 5 times with bleeder valve open - in order to clean out as many contaminant particles as possible. Both rear wheels spin almost freely with just slight pad to rotor friction. Both wheels have the same resistance, the same temperature after driving, and same amount of brake pad wear - both new and old.
I am still having problems though. It seems as if the rear brakes are doing about 90% of the braking judging by the temperature of the wheel hubs after a normal drive. I can lay my fingers on either of the front wheel hubs, but I can just barely touch both of the rear wheel hubs to avoid getting burned badly. Also, the rear brake pads have 3k miles on them and are 50% worn - not good! I don't need to mention where most of that pad material is. I have read a lot about people saying that there is a rear brake bias on these cars. I know that there is EBD on it for the ESP so it is possible that the car can in fact bias individual brakes. Physics tells us that front brakes do most of the stopping on a vehicle. Our eyes tell us that the front brakes do most of the stopping on a vehicle because of the larger and vented rotor. Even if the there was a rear bias for light braking; it was completely transparent to me before I changed my own rear brake pads because I never had any squeaking or an inch thick blanket of brake dust on my rear wheels.
I'm stumped. And I'd love to know exactly how the rear calipers work with the self adjusting pistons and integral park brake. I did see a lot of both black and white particles in the brown brake fluid when flushing. A lot of particles were seen when reseting the pistons which I thought was a good sign that things were getting cleaned up a bit. But still problems...
Are there special procedures that I'm not performing or performing well? I have heard about pumping brakes 3 times, then applying the parking brake 3 times. Until someone can explain the exact functions this procedure performs on the calipers, I'll remain curious if not skeptical. I have read about some people having premature rear brake pad wear on their vehicles of various ages, otherwise I would point my finger at two faulty calipers.
But on the other hand, my rear brakes never behaved so badly until I changed the pads. This is making me wonder what I did to cause this? If anybody has any suggestions or ideas, I'd love to hear them! Thanks.
Now I'm experiencing rear brake problems. First trip with the fresh pads down I-70 in Colo got the rear brakes so hot that they were smoking by the time my wife made it down to Silverthorne. Since then I have adjusted the park brake so that the calipers reset all the way to the arm stops, flushed the entire system with new brake fluid, and reset each rear caliper piston 5 times with bleeder valve open - in order to clean out as many contaminant particles as possible. Both rear wheels spin almost freely with just slight pad to rotor friction. Both wheels have the same resistance, the same temperature after driving, and same amount of brake pad wear - both new and old.
I am still having problems though. It seems as if the rear brakes are doing about 90% of the braking judging by the temperature of the wheel hubs after a normal drive. I can lay my fingers on either of the front wheel hubs, but I can just barely touch both of the rear wheel hubs to avoid getting burned badly. Also, the rear brake pads have 3k miles on them and are 50% worn - not good! I don't need to mention where most of that pad material is. I have read a lot about people saying that there is a rear brake bias on these cars. I know that there is EBD on it for the ESP so it is possible that the car can in fact bias individual brakes. Physics tells us that front brakes do most of the stopping on a vehicle. Our eyes tell us that the front brakes do most of the stopping on a vehicle because of the larger and vented rotor. Even if the there was a rear bias for light braking; it was completely transparent to me before I changed my own rear brake pads because I never had any squeaking or an inch thick blanket of brake dust on my rear wheels.
I'm stumped. And I'd love to know exactly how the rear calipers work with the self adjusting pistons and integral park brake. I did see a lot of both black and white particles in the brown brake fluid when flushing. A lot of particles were seen when reseting the pistons which I thought was a good sign that things were getting cleaned up a bit. But still problems...
Are there special procedures that I'm not performing or performing well? I have heard about pumping brakes 3 times, then applying the parking brake 3 times. Until someone can explain the exact functions this procedure performs on the calipers, I'll remain curious if not skeptical. I have read about some people having premature rear brake pad wear on their vehicles of various ages, otherwise I would point my finger at two faulty calipers.
But on the other hand, my rear brakes never behaved so badly until I changed the pads. This is making me wonder what I did to cause this? If anybody has any suggestions or ideas, I'd love to hear them! Thanks.
