VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2004 TDI, 5 spd. There now is a shudder or vibration when accelerating above 2500 RPM. There is 124K miles on the car. I did find my wife ridding the clutch a few times. She did take a trip through the Chicago stop and go highway for about 2 hours. Prior to this trip the car was fine. I am thinking the pilot bushing is being warn out of round due to the ridding of the clutch. Am I on the right track?
Thanks,
Ed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
It could also be a bad flywheel. The flywheels are dual mass and sometimes the dampener fails. See here for more details: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/clutch-kit-FAQ-VW-Audi.htm

I don't believe your car has a pilot bushing. One is shown in the parts catalog but I'm pretty sure there is none. I looked just in case and don't know why it's shown. Of note is that there's no part number for the bushing....I don't think they have one.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The clutch is not slipping. The peddle feels good. When you give it more throttle you get a vibration or a shudder type vibration above about 3k rpm. It vibration is not consistent each day. Sometimes it is almost normal. Other days it is quite significant.

So reading through all of the clutch info. I must have a dual mass flywheel. Can this be rebuilt or does this need to be replaced? Do I go back to this dual mass flywheel or to a "normal" flywheel?

Then when apart do I replace all of the other clutch parts even if they are good? Then upgrade to a higher torque clutch?

Thanks,
Ed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
Well at least your wife doesn't have to take the blame, blame VW :D

Ruling out another problem, I would replace it with a single mass flywheel. It will need a matching clutch kit. Your old parts won't fit and the flywheel can't be rebuilt. I've driven both and the SMF does rattle more but you don't really hear it unless you're at a drive-through or right up against a building. It won't harm anything and clutch engagement is smoother. The corrado G60 flywheel (4 cylinder flywheel from a vw corrado, the bolt holes have to line up) and VR6 clutch kit is a minor upgrade that will accommodate basic power upgrades and is cheap. Pedal resistance will actually go down slightly due to the pressure plate.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
More details: The car has no unusual vibration until warmed up. The repeatable vibration can be seen on the steering wheel. While at 60 mph and 3k rpm, pressing down the "gas" pedal the vibrations increase while pressing slow or fast on the gas pedal. The speed can be increased slowly without too much extra vibrations by downshifting. (history: the wife did smoke, by slipping the clutch, my built 403 ci 74 Ford F250 extra heavy duty clutch and pilot bushing while pulling out another truck stuck in the mud some years ago)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Conflicting Symptoms (Steering Wheel Vibrations?)

A vibration in the steering wheel suggests CV joints. I would rule out the CV joints by doing some low speed tests. From a dead stop, crank the wheel over to the mechanical stops and then back off a 1/2-inch so as not to overheat the steering system. Then do a low speed circle with the wheel hard over and listen for clicking or popping, which is the symptom of an excessively worn CV joint. Repeat the test in forward and reverse, hard left and hard right.

I have seen, but unfortunately do not have photos to share, of engine compartments that were demolished by a CV joint failure at freeway speeds: punched holes in the engine block, knocked the starter off the bell housing...

A slipping clutch 'may' create some torque steer that is noticeable at the wheel, but torque steer is normally only noticeable under hard acceleration events.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The cv joints are checked out good. I am thinking that it is not the flywheel, the idle had been GREAT!

Car has not been used much. Now I believe that it may be the EGR circuit. The car ran fine till warm. The previous post I put down the wrong rpm, it was 2K RPM at 60 MPH.

Now the car has been smoking black when pressing even a little on the accelerator, at any RPM.

Today, on the way home from work, it ran poorly from the start (new change in performance). The car smoked black without it warmed up. The CEL came on, with my reader I received two codes that I cannot find anywhere C063A and C0065.

Can someone point me to the codes?

Ed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
These codes were checked with the Flashzilla. I checked them with my OBDII and it listed two codes,
P0101 was listed twice.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
P0101

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16485/P0101/000257

Possible Symptoms


  • Loss of Power
  • Erratic Idle
Possible Causes


  • Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) faulty
  • Air Leak(s) after Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
  • Intake Air Filter dirty/faulty
  • Ground Spots corroded or Paint Residue
  • Wiring and/or Connections from/to Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) faulty
Possible Solutions


  • Check Intake Air Filter
  • Check Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
  • Check Ground Spots
  • Check Wiring and/or Connections from/to Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
May have found source of problem

I went through the vacuum lines yesterday. I found no leaks. I have a hand pump and used it on the individual items and they all worked smoothly with no leaks.

While under the car I found soot at the EGR tube, the tube appears gold in color, with a bellows portion at the bottom of the intake manifold. I took out the air cleaner and found soot near the air inlet from the engine compartment. The air cleaner was new just 7 weeks ago.

The DTC that I read with my OBDII was P0101 which is the Mass Air Flow sensor. What I have read about the MAF is that it will totally mess up the way the engine runs.

A friend suggested getting a EGR delete kit vs. a new exhaust tube. They thought it may be less costly. Where can I get one of these?

Does the CRC MAF cleaner work?

I was unable to unplug the MAF, it appears to have a one way tab on it that will break off if I try harder to remove it. Any tricks to unplugging the MAF?

Thank you all for all of your help!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,902 Posts
MAf cleaner won't hurt but it doesn't always work.

To plug the MAF, press the clip out and it releases a hook. Sometimes the hook catches so push the plug in before pulling it out.

To delete the EGR you need an ECU reflash first or else the CEL will be on and in the PD engines, the car won't run right. The earlier cars you could block it off and the only problem would be the higher emissions and CEL.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Update to TDI

Got into the VW dealer today for diagnostics. The MAF was acting up (expected from the soot), they changed out the MAF and the EGR tube that was cracked.

They stated the car ran much better however there still seems to be a miss in the engine. They are keeping the car overnight to perform more troubleshooting tomorrow when it is cold. They have kept me posted during the day for their progress. They are having difficulty trouble shooting the individual injectors on this BEW PD engine. They are doing all of the troubleshooting under their $73.80 diagnostic fee. I thought that was very nice for all of the time they have into it. They did charge $130 to change out the tube along with the MAF which did not seem too bad.

I will let you know on the fix, when it is found.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Update 6/28/11

Dealer found the EGR valve was sticking. Cost to replace $631.95. They said that they could not clean it.

Will be picking up the car today and cleaning the EGR valve myself.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
EGR

Removed and cleaned the EGR valve tonight. Did not look too bad, nothing like the pictures that I have seen on line. I did clean up what was there. Did polish up the valve stem. The valve did not stick. Put the EGR back in, still running poorly, smoking away when the accelerator pedal is pressed.

Ordered new EGR off Ebay, $330. Much less that the $429 the dealer wanted.

I will give an update when I replace it with the new one. For now she will be parked.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
EGR Replaced

Hi,

Got the new EGR valve, replaced the EGR, the car is still running rough, smoking black. Then changed out the fuel filter. No change in performance.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Fasteddie
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Found Problem

Pulled the valve cover off today. The forth cam lobe is worn out, the top of the lifter is worn through. Starting to shop for parts and tools.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Sound of the engine

Hi,

The engine did not sound anything like the videos of the troubled TDIs. The car idle is very good. The car starts out fine. Then under a greater load, the engine misses.

I will send pictures after the engine is repaired.

Still shopping for parts.

Thanks,

Ed
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top