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I have a post in the introductions but I think here is more appropriate. Just got back from AutoZone had them do a scan...trouble code P1246 needle lift sensor circuit range performance...explanation open or short circuit condition...probable cause Check sensor resistance or replace #3 injector with needle lift sensor. I have done a visual check and wire looks OK...there has been a splice made in two wires that look to connect a hose/tube under the injectors going to the head. How do you get the sensor connector to release? I forgot to mention that at the plug I see that there are only two wires going in, a blue and a gray. But when I inspect further down about 2 inches peel back some electrical tape there is a black wire that terminates no where and looks to be cut...any insight? Thanks for any help:pukerofl
 

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I have a post in the introductions but I think here is more appropriate. Just got back from AutoZone had them do a scan...trouble code P1246 needle lift sensor circuit range performance...explanation open or short circuit condition...probable cause Check sensor resistance or replace #3 injector with needle lift sensor. I have done a visual check and wire looks OK...there has been a splice made in two wires that look to connect a hose/tube under the injectors going to the head. How do you get the sensor connector to release? I forgot to mention that at the plug I see that there are only two wires going in, a blue and a gray. But when I inspect further down about 2 inches peel back some electrical tape there is a black wire that terminates no where and looks to be cut...any insight? Thanks for any help:pukerofl
The 2 wire splice you see is most likely the glow plug harness. If done properly, the splice should consist of 2 blue "barrel" connectors that have been heated and are now glued / shrunk to the wires.
the needle lift sensor connector is an "old type" connector with a metal locking bale. Squeeze the 2 bales together toward the connector and pull apart. !st remove the round vacuum "ball" ( two 6mm allens) and pry the connector up out of the bracket. If the sensor were Open or Short to ground or B+ the fault code should say JUST THAT.... range /performance I would replace it. Hope this helps. L
 

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The sensor itself does not release from injector #3. Resistance should be 80-120 ohm. The other post didn't mentioned the splice and electrical tape :) That is an important clue. There is OEM electrical tape and non. It's possible it was cut-spliced but since the injector #3 needle lift sensor has a plug on it, I don't see why in the world anyone would splice the line if that's what you were describing. You can see mine here:

 

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ALH engine, the black ball is the vacuum reservoir. The picture is from the injector removal article for ALH or similar engines. The circle is the plug for injector #3.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I believe your correct larrysmiths1 The splices are probably glow plug...your description is spot on. As for the injector...I think I'm going to rule out everything and find a replacement. If the sensor would pass the resistance test where else do I look? Last night I cracked the fuel line, no help...I pecked the injector with a wrench, no change. Can the injector be taken apart and cleaned? I guess the last question is if I have to get a new injector should I go ahead and get 4 .205 injectors for the added hp and torque...The Stealer wants $480 for a #3 injector. Anyone know a source for a used one?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is a picture of the wire I was talking about on the car side of the #3 injector harness...any idea why there is a clipped off black wire? What is the difference in the automatic injector and the stick injector? I have found a #3 injector out of an auto, can I just change the tip over from my stock stick injector? Thanks for your help
 

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Here is a picture of the wire I was talking about on the car side of the #3 injector harness...any idea why there is a clipped off black wire? What is the difference in the automatic injector and the stick injector? I have found a #3 injector out of an auto, can I just change the tip over from my stock stick injector? Thanks for your help
Manual vs. auto are different. However, I couldn't tell you if it's just because the nozzle is larger or if there's something else about the #3 injector. If I had to guess I'd say that it's just due to the smaller nozzles.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I've pulled the injector to prepare for replacement...my sensor measures 95.5 ohms well within range...could it just be a clogged tip? Can it be rebuilt?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
P1246 Trouble code Update...Yahoo it's out of limp mode

Got lucky, found a used #3 injector out of an auto car. With the help of the FAQ page on replacing injectors I switched out the nozzle to the one out of my 5 spd...reinstalled the new injector, crossed my fingers and turned the key...Yahoo, it started and there is no CEL or GP light blinking. Does anyone know what mechanically goes wrong with injectors? Thanks for all of your help!!!:nana2:
 
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