New to forums.trying to install timing belt /water pump on my 04 Jetta 1.9 TDI. Have own shop but never changed a TDI timing belt before. Have tools from Metalnerd.....all set to go, just like to make sure I have all my info first. Any tips ?google it
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welcometomyturbodies
I think it's mostly just double checking as you go because it's fairly common to miss something and wonder why the car isn't running as well as it was before the belt change.
Non pd
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/a4-ALH-TDI-engine-index.htm
and pd
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/a4-pumpe-tdi-bew-index.htm
I think it's mostly just double checking as you go because it's fairly common to miss something and wonder why the car isn't running as well as it was before the belt change.
Non pd
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/a4-ALH-TDI-engine-index.htm
and pd
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/a4-pumpe-tdi-bew-index.htm
Hey Courtenay!
There are tutorials on this site, just check everything as you go, take your time, and rotate the crank two full turns to be certain that you have the cam/crank timing interference - free. Make sure you clean all surfaces before mating the new pump and don't expect the belt to slip on too easily. If you are a PD - BEW engine, then loosening the three cam pulley bolts made all the difference getting the belt on.
Also, be careful to support the engine (higher than seems appropriate) and extremely well when removing the 18mm motor mount bolts or you WILL damage the aluminum threads. Be certain that the mounts are parallel, so no twisting/bending of the bolt is occurring as they are removed. Don't ask why I'm emphasizing this!!
So, have fun, post if you have issues come up.
There are tutorials on this site, just check everything as you go, take your time, and rotate the crank two full turns to be certain that you have the cam/crank timing interference - free. Make sure you clean all surfaces before mating the new pump and don't expect the belt to slip on too easily. If you are a PD - BEW engine, then loosening the three cam pulley bolts made all the difference getting the belt on.
Also, be careful to support the engine (higher than seems appropriate) and extremely well when removing the 18mm motor mount bolts or you WILL damage the aluminum threads. Be certain that the mounts are parallel, so no twisting/bending of the bolt is occurring as they are removed. Don't ask why I'm emphasizing this!!
So, have fun, post if you have issues come up.
an update: All went well, if not slowly. Metalnerd tool kit, timing belt kit and water pump, and a few hours and all was good to go. Oil, filter and antifreeze flush , and a test drive. Didn't feel like it had enough top end so a quick check revealed the intercooler pipe had slipped off a connector. Reset the clip and reinstalled , and all was good. Now, anyone know if there is a kit for the intercooler pipe o-ring's and clips? They seem a little sloppy at 130K. GREAT SITE, I'm sure I'll lots more great info off of it.
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I haven't seen a kit but that would be a dealer item. If you do a boost leak test and it passes, no need to replace the clips for no reason. As mentioned in the writeup, if you meant the upper intercooler-intake manifold pipe, its clips wear down and the part number is in the writeup.
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