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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Just bought a 2004 Jetta Wagon TDI and love it so far.
While I don't plan on doing any performance mods yet I would like to do a few things pretty soon:

1)I need another key/fob. They are pretty cheap but I'm not sure if they have to be programmed by the dealer or if I can do it myself.

2)I need some floor mats, will check the auto parts store but open to suggestions for a set that will fit well.

3)The leather is in good shape but I am thinking of conditioning it and would like to hear opinions on what product to use.

Tbone
 

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HI Tbone,

I'm in exactly the same position myself. Just picked up a 2000 Golf TDI, and it only has the one key with the remote fob on it. A call to the dealership about getting some other keys invoked some pretty ridiculous numbers. Looking for more economical options.

I'm planning on getting one of the computer tools, probably one of the Ross-Tech units. I'm wondering if this will this allow me to program the keys myself? I'd rather spend the bucks on getting a programming tool, than the high fees to the dealership to program the keys.

I'm located in Ithaca, in central NY.
 

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redhawk, yes it will work. And if you decide you don't need the tools after you're done. you can sell them here, I'm sure someone will buy them. Probably to Tbone, lol.

1. See the mk4 key FAQ article. You can DIY but you must have the right tools.

2. I would get genuine VW or VW-monster rubber floor mats. They are pretty cheap and the peg holes fit perfectly.

3. I've heard good things about Leatherique but never tried it.
 

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Thanks, I will read that article. I guess you have to figure out how to get the keys cut (local locksmith says they don't do it) as well as the programming. I've heard you might be able to order the keys cut according to VIN number?

Just installed the Panzer Plate on it this afternoon. With any luck, it will be inspected and ready to pick up tomorrow afternoon. This will be my first diesel vehicle so I'm sure there will be a learning curve. This site has already be very valuable during the evaluation process. I'm sure there is more to learn. Thanks!

Sell tools??? People *do* that? ;-)
 

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There was a settled class action lawsuit about the keys. Now, a few locksmiths can do it but they are far and few between. VW has a list of these locksmiths on their website but I doubt they are much cheaper since they can't use generic keys. They are still using cut keys. You can order the key already cut with your VIN.
 

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You didn't ask about or mention it, but if you have the Pumpe Deus / BEW engine you might want to take a look at your camshaft and lifters.
Ignoring this issue can be both EXTREMELY costly as well as leave you at the side of the road...... in a foul mood.

I covet a wagon! Especially if it's a 5spd.

If you're in Langley, BC, you're not far from me, in Fort Lang.
 

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Looking to buy first TDi

I have a 12 year old Intrigue 3.8 l engine that is very fast 0 - 60 and am concerned about the lag from the stop position if I were to get an Audi A3 TDi wagon. My Intrigue also accelerates smoothly and fast on the highway - hop[e tha Audi does as well. My son has a TDi jetta and wants me to get the Audi TDi
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry guys, just logged in and saw all the responses. Didn't get the email notifications so probably set something wrong.

I am in Langley BC.
There are keys on eBay for about $50 which seems like a good price but I'd like to find someone locally who can program and cut them for me before I buy it. I'll have to try the dealer and see what they say.

I found castrol oil but it says 505.00, I think it is supposed to be 505.01 for the PD. That was at cdn tire.

I read the service schedule and it says to replace the timing belt at 90,000 miles and also at 100,000 miles! Obviously this is a mistake but which is correct? Probably best to do it ASAP.

I will be buying the timing belt kit(with metal w/p impeller) and also the tool kit to do it. I was looking at dieselgeek as a supplier, any recommendations?
 

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Virgin to the TDI world

Hi There,
I have just purchased a 2003 Golf GTTDI 130HP with 133k on the clockabout three weeks ago. There is a little work to be done to her but I just love it .But I have noticed in the last week that its showing signs of LIMP MODE . Now after reading the section on LIMP MODE on the the website , I brought it out for a hard drive to clear out the turbo ,which it seemed to cure that was about a week ago but yesterday it came back.
I drove it today and no sign of it but it only seems to appear when I put it into six gear at 60mph.
I was just wondering if anybody else had the same problem and how did they rectify it in the end.

Any suggestions would be helpful.
 

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I used the Castrol. I have a worn cam. I now use Mobil 1 Turbo diesel truck oil 15w-40.

The manual for my 05 golf states 505.00, which is clearly wrong. The Mob1 TDT oil is not 505-01 compliant, but if you read the oil analysis thread on this and the TDIclub site you will get an idea as to why I switched.

I changed my Timing belt at 144km, bought what I needed from DieselGeek. No regrets about that. But I know there are others on this site that swear by other sites. I suggest that you ck with the fellas here before trying some place that is not commonly used by the members. And, I think you are safe with DG.

There are extensive threads detailing the TB change, follow them carefully, because these are not cheap engines to play with.

My manual also states 90k miles and 100k miles.

How many km on yours? Which engine/trans?
 

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My belt and pulleys were fine when I changed them at 144km. If you're already doing the belt it's not much harder to do the cam&lifters at the same time. Your cam may be fine, but I'd be surprised.


These are fun little cars, great handling...front brakes on ours have lasted more than 160000KM.....which easily pays for the TB. I avg 44 - 46 mpg in town and 51 on the Coquihalla and it's an auto. Easily hits 170kph, cruises all day at 130+
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't know if I'll be doing the cam and lifters right away, did you do yours yourself?
I'll check around for a price and see how it looks.
 

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I haven't done mine yet. I rec'd advice to switch to the oil I mentioned earlier and I haven't been able to (visually) see any significant change. That doesn't mean I'm off the hook, just postponing the cam and lifter change.

The TB change wasn't too difficult, but being pretty meticulous....and I am pathetically slow, I took about 2.5 days....re-checking everything as I went. Screwing it up just wasn't an option!! My son and I figure we could do it again in about 5 hrs. But that's if we did it quick.....not 3 years later on.
I get him to pull the covers off to inspect the cam every so often and he has it down to about 5 - 10 min each way, including removing the EGR and looking for the right tools....always a challenge.
The dealer recommended the wrong Castrol 505.00 oil to me, the book specced the wrong oil and apparently there is supposed to be a decal attached to the rad support as well. All were either missing or incorrect. I don't think Castrol makes an appropriate oil.

Your cam may be fine, but it is far better to catch it early, before it destroys a good engine. IF it should wear through the lifter face, which it can do realtively quickly, it will completely destroy the engine from top to bottom as the valve gets in the way of the piston. My suggestion is to simply get yourself informed about it's condition before too many more miles go by.

I've maintained lots of vehicles, including jetskis and aircraft, but these were a new challenge for me to learn.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I bought some Rotella T6, just need to get the filters.
Looking at timing belt kits and tools, probably will order them next week(probably from Dieselgeek)

Have noticed that there is a bit of oil in the intake pipe into the engine. Not sure how the crankcase is vented, think I read that it's plumbed into the turbo inlet?

Also read about snow screens, not sure if my car has one or not.

Tbone
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, that's what I thought. Over time the oil accumulates and makes for a messy intake tract.

Do the intakes plug up from the egr and oil like the ALH? I cleaned one of those out before and it was pretty nasty.

Tbone
 
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