Hello people,
I am the new owner of a 2005.5 jetta tdi 4 door, 1.9 PD BRM, 5 speed, heated pleather, heated mirrors, 6 disc in dash, good sound system (tweeters, mid-ranges & woofers in front doors), rain sensing wipers, full MFD (i believe this is accurate), etc., etc. The only thing I do not understand about this vehicle is why it has all of the creature comforts you can expect, but it has steel wheels.
I bought the car from a dealership in Western PA(something I DO NOT plan on doing again anytime in the near future) with 125,000 miles on it. The car had a pretty detailed carfox (9,000ish mile OCI, regular computer system checks, tire rotations, etc.). I haggled with the dealership to get a timing belt kit installed, oil change, fuel filters, air filter, and new brakes and rotors (went to service to ensure that they actually did all the components of the timing belt change). I walked out the door ten grand poorer.
The issues I have with the car and the buying experience:
1. The car was missing a hubcap- The dealership said they would look for one for me, but said they can only order in sets of 4 (Snake oil, I presume), so they couldn't guarantee I would get the 4th. I am currently missing one hubcap.
2. The car has only one key, which starts the car, but it does not do anything else (remotely unlock the doors, trunk, alarm). I missed this issue when I was writing up a list of demands for the dealership, and after the agreement and an argument about the key, they only said they can give me a dealer discount on re-programming (if this is all it needs), or a new key at cost, cutting and programming at a dealer discounted rate.
3. I was hoping to inspect the camshaft while the timing belt was being done, but I did not read the article here about BRM PD timing belt change beforehand.. I assumed that the valve cover would be removed, and I was incorrect. I have read tons about the camshaft lobe wear, and have watched a few videos that display the tell-tale noises of a failing camshaft. I will constantly listen for any similar noises on my car until I have time to inspect under the valve cover myself.
My big issue is the key. I tried to replace the battery, but this was not the solution. I have read mixed information about what my situation is:
I have read that if the key starts the car, then both parts are programmed correctly to the car (FOB and IMMO chip). COntrary to this, I have read that the FOB might need programmed, but the key will start the car if just the IMMO chip is programmed correctly.
Hoping for the latter, I have done some reading about DIY programming, but all the threads I find seem to be tailored to programming a second key (putting the one that works in the ignition, new one in the door...)
Yesterday I talked to a VW tech here in western PA (different dealership than where I shopped). He told me that if the car starts and remains running, then BOTH parts of the key are programmed correctly, but the FOB is faulty. He then read me some numbers for a new key ($100 for key, $40 for programming). I have found key fobs online for around $15, but I'm not sure that I want to go that route (in case I get the wrong frequency fob, or something else that wont work with my car).
Does anybody have any advice?
Jon
I am the new owner of a 2005.5 jetta tdi 4 door, 1.9 PD BRM, 5 speed, heated pleather, heated mirrors, 6 disc in dash, good sound system (tweeters, mid-ranges & woofers in front doors), rain sensing wipers, full MFD (i believe this is accurate), etc., etc. The only thing I do not understand about this vehicle is why it has all of the creature comforts you can expect, but it has steel wheels.
I bought the car from a dealership in Western PA(something I DO NOT plan on doing again anytime in the near future) with 125,000 miles on it. The car had a pretty detailed carfox (9,000ish mile OCI, regular computer system checks, tire rotations, etc.). I haggled with the dealership to get a timing belt kit installed, oil change, fuel filters, air filter, and new brakes and rotors (went to service to ensure that they actually did all the components of the timing belt change). I walked out the door ten grand poorer.
The issues I have with the car and the buying experience:
1. The car was missing a hubcap- The dealership said they would look for one for me, but said they can only order in sets of 4 (Snake oil, I presume), so they couldn't guarantee I would get the 4th. I am currently missing one hubcap.
2. The car has only one key, which starts the car, but it does not do anything else (remotely unlock the doors, trunk, alarm). I missed this issue when I was writing up a list of demands for the dealership, and after the agreement and an argument about the key, they only said they can give me a dealer discount on re-programming (if this is all it needs), or a new key at cost, cutting and programming at a dealer discounted rate.
3. I was hoping to inspect the camshaft while the timing belt was being done, but I did not read the article here about BRM PD timing belt change beforehand.. I assumed that the valve cover would be removed, and I was incorrect. I have read tons about the camshaft lobe wear, and have watched a few videos that display the tell-tale noises of a failing camshaft. I will constantly listen for any similar noises on my car until I have time to inspect under the valve cover myself.
My big issue is the key. I tried to replace the battery, but this was not the solution. I have read mixed information about what my situation is:
I have read that if the key starts the car, then both parts are programmed correctly to the car (FOB and IMMO chip). COntrary to this, I have read that the FOB might need programmed, but the key will start the car if just the IMMO chip is programmed correctly.
Hoping for the latter, I have done some reading about DIY programming, but all the threads I find seem to be tailored to programming a second key (putting the one that works in the ignition, new one in the door...)
Yesterday I talked to a VW tech here in western PA (different dealership than where I shopped). He told me that if the car starts and remains running, then BOTH parts of the key are programmed correctly, but the FOB is faulty. He then read me some numbers for a new key ($100 for key, $40 for programming). I have found key fobs online for around $15, but I'm not sure that I want to go that route (in case I get the wrong frequency fob, or something else that wont work with my car).
Does anybody have any advice?
Jon
