The lifter on my 2005.5 Jetta TDI is worn and I am trying to figure out the best approach. Replace the cam and lifters or replace the whole head? I am worried that my wife drove it for a couple miles while the lifter was worn completly through and that might have damaged the valves.
New Member with Lifter wear on 2005.5 PD
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Surely if anything the valve wouldn't open as much with a worn lifter so would be less likely to suffer any damage? That's my logic but I could be missing something lol. If you have a look through the cam wear faq though it should help.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/camshaft-inspection-replace-vw-tdi.htm
welcometomyturbodies
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/camshaft-inspection-replace-vw-tdi.htm
welcometomyturbodies
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I can't say if your valves are damaged but most people get by with just a new cam/lifters/bearings. Make sure to inspect the lifter bore and the valve but it should be OK. I rent the 2 special cam tools upon request if you need them.
I assume it was only about 12 miles since she said that the car lost power on her way to work and it was making a sound like it had an exhaust leak. I had it towed to the dealership and they said I needed a whole new head. I brought it home and took the valve cover off and saw the worn lifter. But what worries me is the loss of power and the exhaust leak sound it is making. I am worried that I do need a new head. Is there a way to check compression through the glow plug port? I don't want to spend more then I have to since it is 6 years old with 160K on it. The dealer wanted $5600 to repair it.
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Take a look through the FAQ for the article on compression tester specs for the VW TDI engine. Based on your guesses it's worth buying a cheap compression tester to at least do a quick check.
So I finally got around to replacing the cam shaft, lifters and bearings. I have been busy with work and trying to get hay in around the rain.
I followed the directions on this site very carefully since it was the first time I have messed with the timing belt and/or cam shaft. The directions are fantastic!! I put it back together and when I tried to start it, it ran for 2-3 seconds and then died. I searched out some threads and it seems like it ran off the fuel that was remaining between the injectors and pump for those couple of seconds. I bled the the tandem pump by opening the plug between the 2 - 5mm bolts on the pump, turning the key on about 5 times without starting. I then tried to turn the engine over with the plug still loose. Fuel definetly came out. I then tightened the plug and tried to start again, no luck. I checked to make sure the lift pump was working by disconnecting the supply line at the fuel filter, and it is working fine. I disconnected the tandem pump return line at the fuel filter and used my mighty might to pull fuel through. Lots of air came out. I vacuumed about a 1/2 cup of fuel and air bubbles came out the entire time. I hooked the line back up and it still would not start. I am now going to pull fuel through the return line with the mighty mite again until I don't see air anymore.
It seems to me, I probably reassembled everything okay if it ran for a few seconds. And yes, I did manually turn the cam pulley 2 complete revolutions to make sure there was no collision of the valves and pistons. A friend of mine at work has a VAG COM set-up that will allow me to look at timing and such, but I won't get that until tomorrow.
Is there a better way to bleed the pump then the mighty might?
Any other suggestions on what I might check?
I followed the directions on this site very carefully since it was the first time I have messed with the timing belt and/or cam shaft. The directions are fantastic!! I put it back together and when I tried to start it, it ran for 2-3 seconds and then died. I searched out some threads and it seems like it ran off the fuel that was remaining between the injectors and pump for those couple of seconds. I bled the the tandem pump by opening the plug between the 2 - 5mm bolts on the pump, turning the key on about 5 times without starting. I then tried to turn the engine over with the plug still loose. Fuel definetly came out. I then tightened the plug and tried to start again, no luck. I checked to make sure the lift pump was working by disconnecting the supply line at the fuel filter, and it is working fine. I disconnected the tandem pump return line at the fuel filter and used my mighty might to pull fuel through. Lots of air came out. I vacuumed about a 1/2 cup of fuel and air bubbles came out the entire time. I hooked the line back up and it still would not start. I am now going to pull fuel through the return line with the mighty mite again until I don't see air anymore.
It seems to me, I probably reassembled everything okay if it ran for a few seconds. And yes, I did manually turn the cam pulley 2 complete revolutions to make sure there was no collision of the valves and pistons. A friend of mine at work has a VAG COM set-up that will allow me to look at timing and such, but I won't get that until tomorrow.
Is there a better way to bleed the pump then the mighty might?
Any other suggestions on what I might check?
Issue Resolved!!
Not sure what did it but I bled the pump again, pulled a vacuum on the return line and reset the ECU fault codes (I read somewhere that you might have to do this). Everything is working great.
Thanks everyone for all the help!
Not sure what did it but I bled the pump again, pulled a vacuum on the return line and reset the ECU fault codes (I read somewhere that you might have to do this). Everything is working great.
Thanks everyone for all the help!
wow this sounds just like mine.. shop has my car still now 1 week, and just found the issue ... Lifters has a whole in it... so they need to replace lifters, cam, bearings... after reading the $5,600 I started to crap myself.... my guys says 1,680 to get it done... this shop is the best in town.
all you need is a complete set that comes w/ the camsaft ,lifters bearings and new bolts you can get a good deal at www.idparts.com and don't worrie I drove my for over 1000 miles w/ the same problem. And I checked all the valve,pistons,oil pan everyting was fine and clean of metal shavings.
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