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Hi Guys

Akheel Here from South Africa.
I was brought to your site by the Humble Mechanic on You Tube.

I really love audi a4 b7 but I dont know when it's time to call it quits.... I have a not so brief introduction so people can understand the frustration I am going through just to avoid buying a replacement engine....so please bare with me

Against all my warnings and suggestions my wife (and I, naturally) purchased an 2007 Audi A4(B7) 2.0TDI (BRE engine) in December 2017 in a very distressed condition however I've tried my best to make it work. (When I say very distressed in SA it means trash in most other countries)

There car had 90 000 kms on the clock but the wear on the gear knob steering wheel and most used buttons was not consistent with this. I found out a year later from a friend at Audi that it was last serviced with them in 2010 with 115 000kms on the clock so I suspect the car to be in the late 200k- early 300 000 kms range.

The car had previous front damage with repairs that was questionable. To give you an idea... my wife's father is a panel beater so I'm not concerned about cosmetics I just want the car to drive properly.
So the damage I was worried about was the EGR Cooler was damaged looked like it may have been twisted with pratley steel blocking the holes that may lie beneath (haven't considered changing yet due to budget and not enough evidence suggesting I should with the symptoms I have)
Top Front engine cover that guards the cam belt was also missing.
After a brief test drive in a busy CBD I noticed lack of power and we still bought the car thinking it is just a turbo issue.

Anyways fast forward to today.
Rockers were damaged- Replaced with new
Mechanic lost a few small parts and couldn't put the engine together so had the car standing there until November last year.
Eventually put back together and the Engine wasnt starting without quick start-
Had wiring redone from reputable Audi auto Electrician due to wiring being chewed up while sitting in mechanics yard as well as previous owners damage where speaker wires were used to connect broken engine wires.
Was shown there was alot of clear-ish smoke coming from breather of tappet cover
Low Oil pressure- wire to sensor broke off.
Had a misfire on 1 injector - Replaced with working second hand injector.
Car drove in urban residential area fine until 3rd gear where went into Limp mode.
Error codes
P1260- cylinder 1 implausible signal
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected
P1264- Cylinder 2 regulation range exceeded
P0299- turbocharger underboost condition
Cant remember code- boost pressure not reached.
Took it back to auto electrician to test the first 3 errors which was most likely would be on Injector wiring loom and everything tested fine.
Once the errors are cleared the car drives okay but as soon as the boost error occurs then these other errors come up, So I decided to check the boost issue.

Removed VGT turbo 3 times since I bought the car and before vacuum was fixed as vanes kept jamming. A lot of carbon build up for very little driving.
To be fair the was a whole lot of white smoke before injector was replaced and I also adjusted the injectors screws on the Rock arms and smoke is no more.
The Turbine blades are a bit worn consistent with over boost picture from Garret turbo symptoms from their website and there is a little bit of play on the main shaft but there IS boost so not convinced to have it replaced just yet. I'm sure it can be adjusted on the actuating rod but I have tried a few times either too much or too little (I might be getting confused with the VGT if it works the same as wastegate turbos- longer rod less boost shorter rod more boost)

Seen that the BRE engine has a vacuum pipe from the tappet cover which I did not see on my car after investigating found it was broken off and the T-piece removed making just a straight connection from tandem pump to n75.
I used Q-Bond( a multi purpose solid adhesive) to joint a new plastic part for the hose to fit on from the tappet cover and ensuring that there is flow to the New T piece.
Checked vacuum lines and replaced 1 pipe due to leak.
Vacuum seems good now and actuator moving good.

SA is currently in 21day Lockdown so cant get any parts but decided to
Flush the inter cooler- found a little oil but not bad.
Removed exhaust only from the turbo to mid section as I seen that back pressure from a clogged DPF can also cause poor boost conditions.
Cleaned it out wasn't too bad, not convinced my problem was there.
Also cleaned up all the Jubilee clamps holding the boost pipes to ensure efficient grip and no leaks because of the Boost pressure not reached and put everything back together...
I also fixed the broken wire to the oil pressure sensor (error still persists) so I was thinking the next thing to do would be replace Balance shaft assembly or do the balance shaft delete with ALH geared oil pick up as per older thread on this forum just to make sure no further damage is done to engine components.

But... when I tried starting some unusual clanky noises which sounded like perhaps I haven't tied up the exhaust and there was something knocking when I tried to start it but then i noticed that my crank pulley is a bit wobbly so now I'm really worried.

When is time to call quits....
I dont have the budget to buy another engine I might end up just stripping for spares....
8431

8432
 

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9,334 Posts
Welcome to the forum.


Its nice to see you made an intro on your own. ;)

This is a new forum layout which is owned by a company 6 months ago that doesn't give a dam with loads of bugs which have been reported in the new thread. There is no TDI Wiki at the moment or original similes. It doesn't show the car spec/location.

We Are Live - Community Feedback

This has been talked about many times.

I've made a poll which no one has posted in, there are a few votes and comments.

Do you like the new forum features?

Wiki pages have been restored as of 7th December, I asked where is the link it should be on top of the main forum.

I will post those error codes if you make a new thread?
 
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