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Hello,
Gene here & new to the VW World. Actually for my son just out of the military, helped him pick up a 2000 Jetta for a more gas mileage friendly transportation while he gets back on his feet. I'm the one in the family that does most of the wrenching so you'll most likely see more of me than him.

1st issue we have with this Jetta is it came with is the immoblizer I believe. The car came used 3rd owner and the SKC code is long gone. We got one working key although it started the car fine none of the key fobb buttons worked. Being ignorant at the time of purchase regarding the key & immobilizer my 1st though was no problem, I'll pick up another remote & program it myself. Welp that wasn't the case. So a couple days later when my son was cleaning out the car he found another key fob that appeared to be new but neither the key blade or remote portions worked, but it looked new and was the newer type with the hard keyhain loop vs our original round button style.

So anyways, before we got a chance to get another key from the local dealer, we got this bright idea of switching key blades so the working blade was installed on the newer remote. 1/2 hour later, naturally son comes in "Car Won't Start". After seeing for myself and researching here I learned we screwed up and returned the blade to the remote with the correct immobilizer chip. Then we try again and still the car starts then quits while the immobilizer lit on the dash flashes. At that point I figure we damaged he chip while swapping blades (I did use appropriate punch and light taps with a hammer to remove the roll pin). I disassemble the key and find the chip still intact with glass not broken.

So now it this point I am stuck. VW dealer is 1 hour away. I would have to drag the car to the dealer? But I don't have the SKC# for new keys? Can the dealer even do anything? Hurts to see them jam my son with the cost too.

Any and all comments are greatly appreciated.

Gene
 

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Sounds like the only safe bet for your son is a valet key. They are foolproof. :nana2: Get yourself access to a Bentleys service manual, the paperback kind... it will show you how to program the keyfobs, something about turning on the ignition for 10 seconds with another key in the door lock will program the keybfob remote portions only.

The Immobilizer is another complete issue, in itself, 2000 is I believe Immo II. You'll need all the keys for the car present to set that up... so always keep blades of keys matched to keyfobs, which of course you want the chips also matched so Immobilizer II works.

To set it up, get the skc code, you most likely will need to buy or get access to VAG Tacho. Do a google search, buy the cable and software, and you should be golden. If you have or can pull and get the SKC code, you can do keys with VCDS software and cable. My SKC code is written down now, and sits in a safe, in case I ever need access to it, since I have VCDS cable and software.

VW's like this, really should not be messed with doing mix and match of hodge podge parts when it comes to igniton keys and key fobs, chips and immobilizers... Get a valet key, use only valet keys, and be done with it, it's far, far, far less expense and headaches than spending $250 to $300 at a VW dealership to get a new key fob, get a blade cut, then have to get them all reprogrammed at the same time.

You will find out shortly how expensive a TDI is to maintain, and why sellers run them into the ground with not doing basic repair or maintenance. Sloppy 1st owners and buying 2nd or 3rd hand, with all kinds of missing keys, keyfobs, routine maintenance, etc, turns them into money pits, fast.


Since you just bought this car, please, verify with service receipts when the last time the timing belt, water pump, rollers, tensioner, coolant and one time use bolts were replaced. VW is funny, they use a lot of one time, torque to yield bolts in their designs, that need to be replaced every time. Failure to do the timing belt in prescribed mileage can and will lead to catastrophic failure, especially when young men get behind the wheel, drive like mad men, and floor it just to "see what it'll do". The results are massive damage to the head, sometimes the whole motor is turned to junk, pistons crack, bore gets gouged by crushed /cracked valves, cylinder head is junk too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick response and since I got REALLY GOOD NEWS! I actually got it to work. Not sure which procedure did the trick but I figured I would pass on my experience. As posted previously I had put the blade back on the original key fob with the original Immobilizer and still had the car start then die with the immobilizer dash light lit. After posting my problem, I then disassembled the key fob to expose the chip. It looked in tact with the glass not broken. Even though the starter spun the motor good I connected a battery charger to the battery and let it charge for a while at 2 amps. Because the chip looked to be glued inplace and to avoid breaking the chip I left it in place. After a hour of charging I held the exposed chip side of the key fob against the ring around the key hole in the steering column. When I turned the ignition on I watched the immobilizer light go out almost immediately and I started the car! That was one happy moment! I also remember reading here in my research a statement that the immobilizer's range is 1" when in the key fob & 3" when outside of the key fob. I have started the car before with an almost dead battery with no problem so I'm not sure which thing I did had most effect.

I put everything back together and all is well. Even though hes got his car back to drive he'll be headed down to the dealer tomorrow for a valet key at least.

Thanks Again,
Gene
 

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Gene,

Still, very very important, verify when the timing belt and all the other goodies I mentioned were last completely changed out. You do NOT want to cut corners or milk the timing belt "for a little while longer" if you can not verify when it was last done, what the mileage was, etc... Doing an R & R on a timing belt kit, and water pump, complete, is cheap insurance, compared to a failed belt on a zero interference cylinder head and the attendant bill to fix it.

If you don't have a receipt with the odometer reading, find a TDI guru and get that done.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, and with regard to the timing belt & water pump, yes they were actually just replaced last month by the previous owner (so he says).

Thanks Again,
Gene
 
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