[jmorley00]

Hi, I just bough a 2005.5 jetta (1k) 5 speed manual at an auto auction. It has 220K miles on it and very little history. Since it had very little history I had the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat replaced. The shop that replaced the timing belt also recommended after looking at the vehicle to replace the EGR cooler, o2 sensor, fuel filter, and oil / oil filter. The car ran pretty good for about a month, but has started going into limp mode and is blowing black smoke out the back like crazy. The symptoms have come on very gradually. First it was occasional limp mode. I would feel a slight stutter usually when going down hill. I typically wouldn't think anything of it until I tried going up a hill and would have no power. Turning the car off and then back on again brought back power. Over the last month it has gotten progressively worse and goes into limp mode all the time. Recently, in addition to the limp mode the car is blowing massive amounts of black smoke. I also have trouble at times getting the RPMS over 2k. If I am successful in getting more than 2K rpms this is when it blows the black smoke. The car usual accelerates pretty well after this and the turbo will kick in. Since I am tired of paying a shop all my $$ I have started going through the Limp mode and low power DYI list and I have purchased the vagcom cable from ross tech. I get two fault codes on the vagcom, 000305 - Oxygen (lambda) sensor b1 s1: signal too low - Intermittent, and 001027 EGR Valve (N18) malfunction - Intermittent. I have unplugged the MAF and it seems to run a little better without the MAF, but still not great. The screen shots of the vagcom maf test are different than what I have in my version of the vagcom so I am still working on that test.

I have very little experience with this type of thing, but I am hoping to learn.

Any help that you all can provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Possible failures: leaking turbo seals, does it blow smoke when running normally?

Boost leak is usual cause of stuttering or bucking at a certain rpm w/smoke. You haven't mentioned if you checked all the vacuum lines.

The intake valve and EGR valve run off electric motors, it's possible for the gears to strip.

Camshaft wear is a common problem on these engines, I wouldnt' be surprised if your car had it by this mileage but it doesn't come and go. See this article on more: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/camshaft-inspection-replace-vw-tdi.htm

It's also possible the o2 sensor is worn. It shouldn't cause limp mode though as it's directly for regulating EGR, not fueling like in a gas car.

 

[jmorley00]

Thanks for your reply. Yes, it blows smoke all the time now. I am in the process of getting the parts needed to to the vacuum test. I hope to get this done this weekend. In doing a visual inspection I did find a ton of oil on the backside of the engine where the according pipe just down stream of the MAF connects to the engine block. I can't really see back there, but my hand was covered in oil from feeling around back there. Could this be a sign of the problem? Also, I replaced the o2 sensor a few months ago. Thanks again.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

It could also be a loose valve cover bolts. They don't take much torque but snug them up, if they're loose you found your problem regarding the oil leak.

 

[jmorley00]

So I discovered that the accordion hose that connected to the engine block, the one I mentioned earlier that had all the oil around it, didn't have a clamp on it. It was just stuck on the engine block connection but not secured. So, I went to the local hardware store and bought a clamp. Seems to have made a big difference. Took the car on a test drive with the MAF unplugged (still trouble shooting it) and for the short distance I drove no limp mode and after the initial blow out of black smoke no further black smoke. Question regarding the MAF testing. In the FAQ is states to use the vagcom and go to Engine >> Meas Block >> Group 3, which has MAF actual and MAF requested. My version of the VAGCOM doesn't say maf actual, maf requested. It's egr actual and egr requested. Is this the same thing? Group 11 has MAF actual, but not MAF requested? Thanks.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Same thing, your car is a newer one, the pics shown were an older software version and ALH engine.

:thumbsup finding the hose clamp

 

[jmorley00]

Follow up question

Hi quick follow up question. I removed the intake pipe mentioned about, the one with the MAF on it, and I noticed a metal accordion pipe below it that feeds back into the air filter box. This metal pipe has some holes in it and its not clamped down. Should this pipe be clamped down?

Thanks

 

[chittychittybangbang]

No, it just sits there and will not come off. It's for the cold air intake bypass valve if the cold air snorkel is clogged.

 

[jmorley00]

So, I finally go my boost leak tester and I hooked it up. To start I wanted to be cautious so only put in 3 PSI and it helt pretty well. Then I remembered I forgot to take the oil fill cap off. So, i removed it and then tried the test again. After removing the cap it will not hold any pressure. If I put my hand over the oil fill hole I can feel lots of pressure. I then cranked the engine for a few mins as I saw mentioned in another thread and repeated the test. Still no pressure with the oil fill cap off. What could be going on?

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Either a valve is partially open (not likely since you already cranked engine) or the crank case vent hose is still open. You can close the oil fill cap. The reason for opening it is only if you also block off the CCV hoses. This prevents the crankcase from being pressurized.

However, if you have a turbo car, especially a diesel, there is already noticeable pressure in there are 5 psi is not going to blow out anything. I have edited the boost leak test article to make this more clear. Non turbo cars can do funny things when doing this type of test and of course, user error from someone giving it too much boost could blow out an oil seal.

 

[jmorley00]

Well, I finished boost leak testing and I was able to find one leak that I tightened up, however, the limp mode issues still persist. I finally broke down and took the car to the "Trusted TDI mechanics (as listed on tdiclub.com) and they are telling me that the turbo waste-gate actuator rod is mis-calibrated causing an overboost problem, which is causing the limp mode / black smoke. They can't actually see the rod so they can't tell me if it can be re-callibrated or if it needs to be replaced (the entire turbo that is). I have a couple of questions for the forum.

1. Does this sound like it could cause the problems I described?
2. Is it worth it to try and have it re-callibrated knowing there is a chance that after testing the recalibration I may not fix the issue and I will then have to replace the turbo? The shop gave me 50/50 odds of it working? (Quote for the recalibration = 400ish and for the turbo replacement 1600ish).
3. Are there any other options / workarounds to fixing this problem?
4. What skill level is needed to replace the turbo?

Thanks again.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

1. Possible, I'm not 100% sure but the smart sensor should tell the car's computer where the vane position is assuming the rod is positioned correctly.
2. Can't say.
3. The usual causes are in the article. If you find a new cause, please post a follow up so that it can help others. You already have VCDS so you could try adjusting the rod yourself. Here are some things on replacement rod, technically VW does not sell these.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f5/2004-bew-limp-mode-boost-issue-6175/

4. Not too much but it depends on your mechanical ability and if there are any complications like an exhaust stud breaking off Then your day gets worse. There is a writeup for older engine but none for BRM so if you do it, please consider taking step by step pics so that it will not only help others but qualify for the writeup contest w/prize!