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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I am wondering if anyone can help. I have put a new clutch in my Audi A6 while I was on I did the Duel mass flywheel and the clutch slave cylinder replaced the brake fluid (as it shares a tank with the clutch slave cylinder) and blead the brakes and the new slave cylinder. When the car runs at idol it sounds like a squeeky/ grinding mettle on mettle noise when dipping the clutch and putting it in gear the noise remains but gears do select and wheels turn. The clutch peddle doesn't feel like it's doing anything untill half way pressed down. I must have done something wrong but any suggestions are welcome. many thanks. Hear is a vidio of this problem
in this vidio i put the car into gear the wheels don't turn while the car is in nutural
 

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First posts normally go in introductions else you could get a free fix and we never see you again!!!

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You made 2 post the same I've merged both and deleted the other one.

If you have fitted a new DMF and you still have a rattle as the video shows. You need to check the camshaft as they rattle.

Any problems search TDI Wiki as that covers write ups and forum posts.

You don't need to bleed the brakes when you fit a new clutch slave cylinder, only the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm sorry I hadn't realised I had posted twice and in the wrong place. Thank you for murging the threads and outing this in the right place. The clutch was just slipping when I changed it no noises so is it possible I have damaged the camshaft? I had read on another forum to change the fluid if fitting s new slave cylinder and as the car shares a fluid reservoir with the brakes I blead both just to change the fluid many thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It could be that seatman I'm going to try get the box off tomorrow see what I can see ☺ many thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi all, thank you to everyone who has given replays so far. I have got the gearbox off again but need to remove the exhaust to drop it down and look inside property (I'm not sure how I managed this last time without removing the exhaust) anyway I slid the camera in and took a picture to try and check which way round the clutch plate is and took this picture. Is it me or does the crank shaft look cracked? I'll try get the gearbox out tomorrow and take better pictures (I'm working 12 hour shifts so not much time after work) thanx for reading
 

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The clutch plate will only fit one way. New clutch plates are marked flywheel side. If you fit it the wrong way it won't go flush with the flywheel.

Any problems search TDI Wiki as that covers write ups and forum posts.
 

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How much should the springs be adjusted on the flywheel after fitting the clutch? Hear are some pictures of the clutch now the gearbox is back off
The springs aren't adjustable on a diaphragm clutch pressure plate they are set when they are assembled. You just tighten them evenly after centring the friction/centre plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Keith UK, thats how I fitted it, I just wasn't sure the springs looked right and was wondering if the part could be faulty or something.

Seatman that might be the cause, I see a shiny line around the back of the flywheel, this is looking through the starter motor gap. Unfortunately I don't remember if this was there before I fitted the part. The Dual mass flywheel seems to have a lot of rocking movement in and out is this normal? I have only ever fitted clutches to solid flywheels in the past so I'm new to the Dual mass. I'm thinking if removing the clutch and flywheel to inspect more, if I do this do I need to re new the flywheel bolts again?

Many thanx everyone.
 

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I would definitely fit one, finding it is just knowing what the hell it's actually called lol.

I often find part numbers through Google then I can just use the number at the dealer. They're not always on the ball.
 

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ETKA calls it a spacer ring. I need to know the exact year as a 55 plate is September 2005 - February 2006. What is the engine code?

2005 Audi A6/S6/Avant Quattro 2.0 TDI shows a couple of plates which aren't cheap - 01X 103 551 - £151.64
That is the same part number for 2006.

There are a few spacer plates some 5.5mm some 6.0mm. There is one that's an half plate 06B 103 551 G - £13.62

What that part is called has been talked about on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi mine is December 2005 that plate looks identical. I don't have the engine number on me at the moment. That was really helpful though as o have now looked at pictures of this part and there is a slit near the starter motor at manufacture. I was not sure if this slit had been put in by someone in the past or if it happened during the damage. I have straighned the plate and cleaned it all up, if the same thing happens again I will use that part number to order a new one but hopefully now it's straight and I have taken more care fitting the tranny and starter motor, the problem will be qured. I'm still working 12, hour days but mannaged to get the tranny on last night so get a few hours done on it tonight hopefully . Many thanx everyones help us much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's a very useful website thank you. I managed to straighten the plate and it's working well now thank you everyone for help and support. I had issues bleading the hydrolics but I got a vacume bleeder and used the pressure blesser that goes on the master cylinder at the same time. I'd recommend the vacume bleder as not only did it work well but it's much easier and tidier too especially getting to the slave cylinder as it's in a alkward place to get a pipe and a jar. I also got a leek on a mettle pipe that goes into the block when I removed it there was a brittle rubber seal, I replaced this with three o rings to make the size up of the one seal as Audi only sell the seal with the pipe and said it could take months to get in stock. It seems to have fixed my leek so I thoght I'd share my method incase it can help others
 

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That's a very useful website thank you. I managed to straighten the plate and it's working well now thank you everyone for help and support. I had issues bleading the hydrolics but I got a vacume bleeder and used the pressure blesser that goes on the master cylinder at the same time. I'd recommend the vacume bleder as not only did it work well but it's much easier and tidier too especially getting to the slave cylinder as it's in a alkward place to get a pipe and a jar. I also got a leek on a mettle pipe that goes into the block when I removed it there was a brittle rubber seal, I replaced this with three o rings to make the size up of the one seal as Audi only sell the seal with the pipe and said it could take months to get in stock. It seems to have fixed my leek so I thoght I'd share my method incase it can help others

For most o rings if you can measure the thickness and diameter you can generally find them in packs online for cheap.
 
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