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You will need Ross-Tech VAG-COM to verify the engine tortion value, aka timing, and adjust as required. This is also the preferred diagnostic tool for VAG issues (Volkswagen Audi Group- VAG).
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You will need Ross-Tech VAG-COM to verify the engine tortion value, aka timing, and adjust as required. This is also the preferred diagnostic tool for VAG issues (Volkswagen Audi Group- VAG).
Do you have a place you recommend to get what I need?
 

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Did you verify the camshaft or crankshaft wasn’t 180° out of clock? I know I said you used start fluid and it stumbled. This is an interference engine, things aren’t clocked correct, valves get bent. Could it be possible the camshaft timing belt pully toothed window wasn’t marked (Inside the window, pictured below) and returned to that position?

Use a browser search tool and look for: Ross-Tech.

8493
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Did you verify the camshaft or crankshaft wasn’t 180° out of clock? I know I said you used start fluid and it stumbled. This is an interference engine, things aren’t clocked correct, valves get bent. Could it be possible the camshaft timing belt pully toothed window wasn’t marked (Inside the window, pictured below) and returned to that position?

Use a browser search tool and look for: Ross-Tech.

View attachment 8493
It looked like that when I locked them in and put the belt on. I turned it over by hand multiple times to make sure nothing was hitting. I checked the marks after turning it over multiple times also.
 

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Mechanically you’re saying it checks out. Fuel wise is slow trickle, but that shouldn’t be a no start condition. However, I would be naive if I said it wasn’t the problem. So you’re left to check the computer, sensors, and electrical. Without VAG-COM, you’re quite limited. Best thing I can advise is to methodically go over the whole reassembly process, double triple check everything worked on. Don’t discount anything. Remember, your fingers don’t have eyes, you have to check where they and tools have been. Kinked hoses, broken connectors, hoses not installed in there originally location. If I seem brash, it’s not personal. Troubleshooting is a process. For me, process of elimination, if it wasn’t touched, it’s likely not the problem. If it worked before, something was influenced by a human and those need to be methodically checked, everything. You had to remove the valve cover. All those components back there, Anti-shudder valve, Turbo controls, vacuum lines etc. If everything touched checks out? Basic diesel operation. Fuel, Air, Compression. You will have to ensure the intake system checks out. From air filter through the turbo, intercooler, antishudder valve to the intake valve. Check you have compression in each cylinder (removing all the glow plugs). That’s all I can advise without a VAG-COM scan.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Mechanically you’re saying it checks out. Fuel wise is slow trickle, but that shouldn’t be a no start condition. However, I would be naive if I said it wasn’t the problem. So you’re left to check the computer, sensors, and electrical. Without VAG-COM, you’re quite limited. Best thing I can advise is to methodically go over the whole reassembly process, double triple check everything worked on. Don’t discount anything. Remember, your fingers don’t have eyes, you have to check where they and tools have been. Kinked hoses, broken connectors, hoses not installed in there originally location. If I seem brash, it’s not personal. Troubleshooting is a process. For me, process of elimination, if it wasn’t touched, it’s likely not the problem. If it worked before, something was influenced by a human and those need to be methodically checked, everything. You had to remove the valve cover. All those components back there, Anti-shudder valve, Turbo controls, vacuum lines etc. If everything touched checks out? Basic diesel operation. Fuel, Air, Compression. You will have to ensure the intake system checks out. From air filter through the turbo, intercooler, antishudder valve to the intake valve. Check you have compression in each cylinder (removing all the glow plugs). That’s all I can advise without a VAG-COM scan.
Alright thank you for the help. Ill keep working at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Mechanically you’re saying it checks out. Fuel wise is slow trickle, but that shouldn’t be a no start condition. However, I would be naive if I said it wasn’t the problem. So you’re left to check the computer, sensors, and electrical. Without VAG-COM, you’re quite limited. Best thing I can advise is to methodically go over the whole reassembly process, double triple check everything worked on. Don’t discount anything. Remember, your fingers don’t have eyes, you have to check where they and tools have been. Kinked hoses, broken connectors, hoses not installed in there originally location. If I seem brash, it’s not personal. Troubleshooting is a process. For me, process of elimination, if it wasn’t touched, it’s likely not the problem. If it worked before, something was influenced by a human and those need to be methodically checked, everything. You had to remove the valve cover. All those components back there, Anti-shudder valve, Turbo controls, vacuum lines etc. If everything touched checks out? Basic diesel operation. Fuel, Air, Compression. You will have to ensure the intake system checks out. From air filter through the turbo, intercooler, antishudder valve to the intake valve. Check you have compression in each cylinder (removing all the glow plugs). That’s all I can advise without a VAG-COM scan.
Is this what I need?
8494
8326A0DA-87DF-4641-890A-FF0B87E84208.png
 

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VAG Error Code: 19464/012296

EOBD II Error Code: P3008

Fault Location:
Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40) - Signal Limit Exceeded

Possible Cause:
Insecure rotor.
Camshaft alignment.

Possible Solutions:
Read Measuring Value Blocks (MVB).

As taken from my new Free EOBD II Error Codes software
 

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Here is the location for the hall sensor. Held in by a 10mm bolt. The sensor goes out the rubber grommet (Where the wire comes in.) You don’t have to clock the the crankshaft, or anything. Be careful not to drop the 10mm bolt into the lower timing belt cover! It will be hell to get it out.
8496
 

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If your getting fuel out of the return from the tandem pump, the part from the tank to the tandem pump is working. It doesn’t confirm the tandem pump is working. With the fuel flow, have you considered replacing the fuel filter?
 
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