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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hey guys,

I am in the process of adding OEM Bi-Xenon's and OEM fog lights to my 2010 Jetta Sedan. I have all the necessary items to do the swap and already installed the Hi-Line CECM. My only hang up is I can not find the correct VW repair wire to add to the body harness from pins A25 (left fog), C25 (right fog) and C49 (right bi-xenon shutter). It's the second largest pin size on the board (there are 4 different sizes, so if 1 being the smallest and 4 being the largest, I need size 3).

Here is a pic of the pins, I need the one for pin 11 (for example):



Here is the terminal I need:



If anyone has this part number I would greatly appreciate the info!

Thanks in advance,
Nick
 

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FYI, I don't know the CECM coding for the HID on 2010. Someone on the vortex found that the pins and headlight wiring were the same on the mk6 golf as the mk5 headlights so I would think they were the same but the problem is the coding. You should turn the DRL off because the DRL run the lights at partial power and may damage the ballasts. I just added this screenshot for the HID shutter to the HID installation article.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/General_Purpose/Electrical/Connectors/

Here is a listing of common repair wires. I would bet ECS tuning would know, if you find out, can you please share the part number wiring for the fog lights? I just bought a harness retrofit kit for the foglights so I don't know the part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
FYI, I don't know the CECM coding for the HID on 2010. Someone on the vortex found that the pins and headlight wiring were the same on the mk6 golf as the mk5 headlights so I would think they were the same but the problem is the coding. You should turn the DRL off because the DRL run the lights at partial power and may damage the ballasts.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/General_Purpose/Electrical/Connectors/

Here is a listing of common repair wires. I would bet ECS tuning would know, if you find out, can you please share the part number wiring for the fog lights? I just bought a harness retrofit kit for the foglights so I don't know the part number.
I have the coding and all that information squared away just waiting on figuring out these damn wires. I plan on creating an official write up for the whole process to upgrade the 2010 Jetta MK5 (with MK6 central electronics) once I get the whole project complete. Including OEM Bi-Xenon's, front fogs, and rear fog, euro switch, all wiring, part numbers as well as the Hi-line CECM replacement (with what worked in my car anyway).

I already have the bi-xenons installed in my car and just checked "bi-xenon with shutters installed" and the low beams work correct however the hi-beam shutters clearly won't work until they are wired (hence why I need the repair wires) and since american coding does not allow bi-xenon and the halogen hi-beams to be activated simultaneously I have no hi-beams. I have disabled DRL's although it's not necessary...they work fine once set to "bi-xenon with shutters installed" was checked. This worked both on my original low-line CECM as well as the Hi-line CECM. I also just recently came across a trick to have the Xenon lows and halogen highs for those who may not be interested in replacing the CECM yet still running OEM Bi-Xenons (clearly no BI-xenon support or OEM like fog install) but will get them up an running without all sorts of wiring and swapping steps involved. I'll post that shortly.

Now, how did you find that that's the correct wire for pin A25/C25/C11...? I find that that's a .5mm wire where I believe it should be a 1.0mm.
 

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If you don't modify anything with VCDS, do the low beams function correctly and the high beams are halogen? On the 2009 and earlier, that is how the HID worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you don't modify anything with VCDS, do the low beams function correctly and the high beams are halogen? On the 2009 and earlier, that is how the HID worked.
No. If you just get the 10-12 pin adaptors and install the lights with no VCDS mods at all, the xenons will give you a strobe light show (fast flickering) with low beams active (whether they're DRL's or actual lows). Once the coding is set to "Bi-Xenon with shutter installed" the xenon low beams work perfect however if they are on at all, no halogen hi-beams. If the lows are off, the halogen "flash to pass" hi-beams work...unless you perform the coding mod in my other thread :p

Also, in the 2010 there is no codng option for "xenon without shutter installed."
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to update... I found the wire! It's 000-979-151E. According to maloosheck 000-979-242E is also correct with a larger (2.0mm wire).
 

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Just to update... I found the wire! It's 000-979-151E. According to maloosheck 000-979-242E is also correct with a larger (2.0mm wire).
I just PMed you on vwwortex, posting my question here in case anyone else can answer before you get your PMs (I am in the middle of ordering stuff right now):

By looking at the connectors C48 and C49 seem to be of different size and based on your above quoted note, one of the wires is 000-979-151E, what should be the other one? 000-979-025E or 000-979-131E?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just PMed you on vwwortex, posting my question here in case anyone else can answer before you get your PMs (I am in the middle of ordering stuff right now):

By looking at the connectors C48 and C49 seem to be of different size and based on your above quoted note, one of the wires is 000-979-151E, what should be the other one? 000-979-025E or 000-979-131E?
Sorry for the delayed response! The 000-979-151E is used for both front fog lights and one Xenon. I have to go through my notes again when I get home, but it looks as though the 000-979-131 E is incorrect.
 

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Sorry for the delayed response! The 000-979-151E is used for both front fog lights and one Xenon. I have to go through my notes again when I get home, but it looks as though the 000-979-131 E is incorrect.
Thanks,

One more question, when tightening the three screws on the headlight assembly, is there a specific order in which those screws should be tightened in order to make sure they align properly and sit properly without putting too much strain on one of the tabs?

I am thinking that the bottom two screws should be tightened first to make sure they are leveled horizontally while the headlight is sitting freeley then the top should be tightened but wouldn't that pull that light up a little and put strains on the tabs?

Or does the top tab needs to be touching the body by holding the headlight upwards then the bottom two screes need to be tightened?

Just looking for a logical way of doing this if there is any?
 

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Good question, once you take the headlight assembly out you'll see that the bottom 2 screw anchors are really screws themselves which can be adjusted. Make sure to adjust them to the same depth as the old headlight. Also when putting the bumper back on, check to make sure the headlight isn't rubbing. The top one is floating.

Therefore, I suggest putting all screws in loosely and tightening the bottom 2 first since the top one has some give.
 

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Sorry for the delayed response! The 000-979-151E is used for both front fog lights and one Xenon. I have to go through my notes again when I get home, but it looks as though the 000-979-131 E is incorrect.
Nick,

With trial and error, I found out which wires are correct for the shutters.

000-979-025 (for the smaller PIN)

AND

000-979-151 (for the larger PIN)

131 is doesn't fit either PIN.

Also, no need to buy the "E" version, buy the "A" which is what I bought, E is gold plated and is expensive($25 in Toronto) whereas "A" was $12.

so the correct wires I would buy if I had to do this in future are:

000-979-025 E or A
000-979-151 E or A

That is for the CECM 5K0 937 087 C ZOX with OEM MK5 HIDs

Maybe you can update that info you your DIY unless you need further confirmation from other sources.

Also another TIP regarding wiring:

this is how it should be done:

1) Punch a hole in the rubber gasket from inside the car
2) Push one wire out from inside the car
3) Grab the wire from outside
4) Tape the other wire(s) from inside the car and pull all of them out a little bit
5) at this time, attach the repair wires near the CECM and apply heat of using shrink tubing, once done then pull the wires out leaving only the desired length inside the car (it will be difficult to attached repair wires properly if you already pull the wires out all the way and then decided to attach the repair wires)
4) Put the wires in the split loom under the hood, put cloth tape where the split loom meets the rubber gasket at the firewall
6) Now do what you need to under the hood.


I didn't do it correctly and ended up with some extra wire near the CECM that I had to roll up and tape, if I was to make it too short then I wasn't able to get the heat gun in the car properly for the butt plugs (which is what I used instead of sodering and shrink tubing) above instructions should avoid that error.

I used butt plugs to connect the wires with the repair wires, used heat gun then used the OEM cloth tape near the CECM to wrap the repair wires and the joins.

Hope my experience helps other.
 

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Good question, once you take the headlight assembly out you'll see that the bottom 2 screw anchors are really screws themselves which can be adjusted. Make sure to adjust them to the same depth as the old headlight. Also when putting the bumper back on, check to make sure the headlight isn't rubbing. The top one is floating.

Therefore, I suggest putting all screws in loosely and tightening the bottom 2 first since the top one has some give.
Thanks.

That's what I ended up doing:

1) Adjust bottom two screws to make sure headlights aim straight (mine aim a little bit towards the center of the car, I just couldn't make them aim straight ahead, maybe that's just how they are made)

2) let the lights sit then snug tight bottom two screws, at this point I had to move the headlights towards the center of the car so that they are not rubbing with the fender

3) I then tightened the top screw but the lights were vibrating when the car was started and idel so I pushed the light towards the front a little bit at the top from behind then re-tightened the top screw. that took care of the vibrating beam

4) tightened the bottom two screws fully and put the bumber back on

Everything seems to be working ok so far.
 
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