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Discussion Starter #1
My beloved 2014 JSW with 177K miles was running fine until this evening, when I had sudden power loss accompanied with high pitch sound that looked like emergency vehicle siren from far away. And blinking glow plug light. was able to pull into nearby shopping mall. The engine would turn but would die within a second or two. Please see VCDS scan below. The car has had clogged DPF and bad lower coolant hose with sensor, which I replaced but never reset error codes. So I think first two codes are related to DPF and coolant sensor. I wonder if primary culprit is turbo or HPFP. Shouldn't the car run in limp mode even with no boost from turbo?

Mass Air / Rev.: 430.0 mg/str
Temperature: 89.1°C

001674 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit
P068A - 000 - Opens Too Early - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 0.00 V
Hex Value: 0xFF00
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Temperature: -90.0°C

054282 - Terminal 30
U140A - 000 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 10.72 V
Temperature: -90.0°C
Temperature: -90.0°C
Pressure: 0.0 mbar
Torque: 0.0 Nm

000175 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1
P00AF - 000 - Stuck
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 283854 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2019.03.21
Time: 17:51:26

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 35.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Load: 9.8 %
Lambda: 52.1 %
Pressure: 992.2 mbar
Temperature: 15.3°C

Readiness: 1 4 0 0 0
 

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8,969 Posts
VAG Error Code: 001674/4629

EOBD II Error Code: P068A

Fault Location:
Engine Control Module (ECM) Power Relay Load Circuit - De-Energized Performance too Early/Opens too Early

Possible Cause:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)(K83) active.

Fuse(s).
Ignition Switch faulty.
Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Power Supply Relay (J271/J317) faulty.
Power Supply Relay (J271/J317) faulty.

Possible Solutions:
Check/Replace Fuse(s).
Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Power Supply Relay (J271/J317).
Check/Replace Power Supply Relay (J271/J317).

Note: A weak Battery may set this fault code. Insure the Battery voltage is at least 11.5v.

VAG Error Code: 721408/17262/28656/18689/054282/0067

EOBD II Error Code: U140A

Fault Location:
Terminal 30 - Open Circuit
Possible Cause:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)(K83) active.

Wiring/Connector(s).

Possible Solutions:
Check/Replace all faulty Wiring/Connector(s).
Read Measuring Value Blocks (MVB).

VAG Error Code: 000175/13011/9126/9127

EOBD II Error Code: P00AF

Fault Location:
Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 - Stuck

Possible Cause:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)(K83) active.
Glow Plug light flashing.
Reduced engine performance.

Defective Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75).
Vacuum leak or low vacuum.
Variable Nozzle Turbo (VNT) sticking or seized.
Turbocharger Actuator Position Sensor (G581).

Possible Solutions:
Verify Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) is working to design, use Output Testing.
Verify vacuum lines are good, check engine vacuum at idle.
Test Variable Nozzle Turbo (VNT) and Turbocharger Actuator Position Sensor (G581), apply vacuum to Variable Nozzle Turbo (VNT) and watch Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 120.4.
Engine off, no vacuum 120.4 should read about 3.5V.
Engine Off, apply 17 Inches of mercury, 120.4 should drop to about 7V.
Engine at idle, 120.4 should read about 7V.
If 120.4 voltage doesn't alter, Variable Nozzle Turbo (VNT) may be seized or Turbocharger Actuator Position Sensor (G581) failed.

Special Notes:
On some TDI engines, the Vacuum Diaphragm/Charge Pressure Actuator Position Sensor (G581) unit can be purchased as a separate part from dealer.
2.0L CR TDI owners may find this thread helpful.
009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit P2563

As taken from my new Free EOBD II Error Codes software
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Keith. Got to the intake side of the turbo. The impeller appears to be broken off the shaft (or the shaft is broken), as it seems nothing holding it in place and it is loose inside. Please have a look at photo below. Please note the car was not even running in limp mode, it wasn't running at all.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/6h3xf3
 

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8,969 Posts
It looks live you need a turbo overall. What is the mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
177,000 miles. Maintained regularly. Never had issues with turbo. I wonder what might have caused this; blocked oil supply line, foreign object in the intake side or something else? I noticed the nut on the impeller has . moved away from impeller.
 

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The reason why it won't run at all is because your turbo shaft has sheared. The turbine wheel probably moved into the housing, completely blocking exhaust flow. There's no limp mode when the exhaust is blocked, it won't run at all. This happened to my 2010 JSW @220k miles. No clue why it happened. When I took the turbo apart, the bearings looked ok, no oil starvation. Maybe fatigue?
 

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The reason why it won't run at all is because your turbo shaft has sheared.
Technically it should still start, the turbo doesn't kick in until it starts. Even with a broken shaft it will still draw enough air in.
 

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That's what I was thinking initially as well. But when I tore down the turbo, i found that the sheared half of the shaft with the exhaust turbine wheel had slid out of the bearing and past the VNT vanes in the exhaust housing. The bore of the exhaust housing, when it cooled, had a shrink-fit effect on the turbine wheel and formed a perfect seal. Zero exhaust was getting thru. It was bizarre. I tried to knock out the shaft and wheel with a sledge and it wouldn't budge. I'll try to find a pic.
 

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I had the exact same symptoms as the OP. A brief siren sound with complete power loss, and flashing glow plug light. I initially thought something fuel related was the problem, but had no metal shavings. Turning it over, I'd get a cylinder firing once or twice like it wanted to start, but then nothing. My nut on the impeller wheel was loose as well, but not sure if that was the reason why. I couldn't find any foreign object damage on the impeller wheel, except where it was rubbing on the housing after the shaft sheared. Is this a common mode of failure for this turbo?
 
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