[chittychittybangbang]

In each subforum there's a "Post new Thread" button. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f9/how-join-forum-post-replies-new-topics-126/ See here for more tips on how to use the forum and here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/faq.php I have moved this post to be in a new thread.

Is the anti-shudder valve open? Go to the intake cleaning article and you can see the EGR/intake manifold flap lever that looks like a throttle. Is it closing when you try to start? Maybe you switched a vacuum line or wire?

It's possible that the timing is off. When the mechanic checks the timing, what tool does he use? It should be a vagcom (VCDS) or clone. The computer reads the injection pump timing but it's possible that the camshaft timing is off. Use the timing belt to move the flywheel, injection pump, and camshaft back to TDC. With the timing belt on and tensioned, the index tools should all fit. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/ALH-engine-timing-belt-change-VW-Jetta-TDI-1.htm Here is the procedure. If they don't, something is off. It's possible for the injection pump tool to be a hair off but if the timing is good then it's OK.

When you replaced the head, did you use the correct hole gasket? There are 1-4 punch holes on the gasket and if you get the wrong one the compression will be off. Have you done a compression test?

Fuel cut off solenoid clicks when you turn the key on? The default state is off. When you turn the key on it gets energized and lets fuel go by.

How did you decide to pull Fuse 34? It's "Engine control elements", 10 amp. Someone named MoGolf figured out what fuse 34 powers, I added some description below:

Cold start injector (N108, the knob at the bottom of the injection pump)
Waste gate bypass regulator valve (N75, the turbo control solenoid)
Change over valve (N239, anti shudder valve control solenoid)
EGR vacuum regulator valve (N18, controls the EGR)
Mass air flow sensor (G70, senses airflow)

It's possible there's a problem with the cold start injector or the anti-shudder valve is closed.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

My next ? should the shudder valve remain open when starting or should it close during starting? It seems to move freely. But i did notice a small amount of oil weeping from the weep hole. I have read the egr section and found that this is not good. But did not see if the shudder valve should close during starting or not. Dont know if this acts as a choke.

Oil weeping is a common problem. It's not a problem unless it leaks oil onto the belt or the turbo. The valve should be spring loaded and stay open at all times except when you shut the engine off.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

I'm pretty sure that unplugging the pump won't do a thing except throw codes. Injection pump timing is very important can is probably one of the most common reasons for hard start. I'd take a break and triple check that timing is within range and all timing belt marks are on before chasing more complicated things.

Also, is the battery OK? A low battery or low crank speed will tell the car's computer to not inject fuel.

The MAF sensor is good, the intake is not clogged, you checked the anti-shudder valve, and compression is good so you know that it's not an air problem. Also, even if the MAF sensors was bad it shouldn't cause no start, it'll cause low power.

Therefore, it's a fuel or electrical problem. And of course, there's always the possibility of a faulty injection pump that isn't injecting fuel at the right times.

Also, check the fuel injection quantity. Here is the article http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/IQ-adjust-hammer-mod-TDI.htm

 

[chittychittybangbang]

:thumbsup Good to hear!