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Long story with this car. Bought it with slipped timing destroyed the head. Knew head, timing belt kit, relay 109, 180, glow plug module, harness, temp sensor, crank sensor, maf sensor and i think thats it. Intake and egr was cleaned etc. The car is not throwing any codes anymore but does not want to start. Once started it runs great as i was hoping it would. Long road to get there though. But this starting issue has me and the mechanic helping scrathing our heads. Tring to start the car without pulling the temp sensor or fuse 34 is impossible. Big puffs of white smoke followed by a no start. Even pulling the temp sensor it still lages on the start up but it does start. The only immediate way to start the thing is to pull fuse 34 and start it, let it warm up for a minute or two, shut it off, replace fuse 34 and restart. When fuse 34 is out the car sounds like crap, runs rough. This method trips the muti fuction lite but it does go away if i shut it down and restart the car. ON the mechanics computer the timing reads on the money so he tells me and shows me. I have traced wires from all of the sensors listed and have not found anything cut or broken. I am really out of ideas here. starting to wish i bought a runnig car. But after this this thing should be good for a while since the previous owner just put a knew tranny in it. If i can only get past the starting issue. THis entire site has been very helpful. Better than the $35 book i bought this is for sure. I would be eternally greatfull for the tdi magician who diagnosses this probablem.
 

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This is also my first post. But i cannot figure out how to start a thread of my own. If anyone can tell me how i would epprieciat it. I know i am not the most computer savy and i am a bit embaressed to ask thanks
 

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In each subforum there's a "Post new Thread" button. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f9/how-join-forum-post-replies-new-topics-126/ See here for more tips on how to use the forum and here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/faq.php I have moved this post to be in a new thread.

Is the anti-shudder valve open? Go to the intake cleaning article and you can see the EGR/intake manifold flap lever that looks like a throttle. Is it closing when you try to start? Maybe you switched a vacuum line or wire?

It's possible that the timing is off. When the mechanic checks the timing, what tool does he use? It should be a vagcom (VCDS) or clone. The computer reads the injection pump timing but it's possible that the camshaft timing is off. Use the timing belt to move the flywheel, injection pump, and camshaft back to TDC. With the timing belt on and tensioned, the index tools should all fit. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/ALH-engine-timing-belt-change-VW-Jetta-TDI-1.htm Here is the procedure. If they don't, something is off. It's possible for the injection pump tool to be a hair off but if the timing is good then it's OK.

When you replaced the head, did you use the correct hole gasket? There are 1-4 punch holes on the gasket and if you get the wrong one the compression will be off. Have you done a compression test?

Fuel cut off solenoid clicks when you turn the key on? The default state is off. When you turn the key on it gets energized and lets fuel go by.

How did you decide to pull Fuse 34? It's "Engine control elements", 10 amp. Someone named MoGolf figured out what fuse 34 powers, I added some description below:

Cold start injector (N108, the knob at the bottom of the injection pump)
Waste gate bypass regulator valve (N75, the turbo control solenoid)
Change over valve (N239, anti shudder valve control solenoid)
EGR vacuum regulator valve (N18, controls the EGR)
Mass air flow sensor (G70, senses airflow)

It's possible there's a problem with the cold start injector or the anti-shudder valve is closed.
 

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Don't forget to check the ignition switch and starter. Maybe the starter is shorting out and the fuse is a red herring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help with the forum and advice. He has a snap on tool. Since it was his primary job to set the timing i will need to get with him about rechecking, I do not own the tming tools. But i will deffinatly be there to watch him. The tming was the only part i did not feel comfortable with. Should i discontinue the use of the car until this is rechecked. The last thing i need is to buy another head or worse. My next question is about fuse 34 and what all it controls. What is is turning off to let the engine start and is this safe. Almost 500 miles since all this and no major distruction yet. THe funny thing is when i get it going it really does run great dosent lag, revs smooth and quick. This whole thing is taxing my soul. This is the first tdi i have worked on. Seems to be a tricky little sucker. But i love the car so ill grin and bear it. IN the mean time i will try to locate someone with a vag com or buy one myself. I refuse to use a dealership I know that i dont need a knew motor. thanks again. I will respond asap
 

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Thanks again guys i will check all of the things i can check tommarrow morning. When i replaced the head gasket it matched up with the old one i made sure to check this. cant remember the holes off the top of my head but i did match it up
 

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when origanlly restarting the car the turbo was not working and i was getting no vacum to it or the egr. The engine sounded rough ran rough. Randomly started checking fuses and 34 was popped. replaced it and it ran great just wont start when cold. So i guess that was kind of just luck
 

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Why was fuse 34 popped? It sounds like a wiring short. Triple check ALL the vacuum lines. There should be a diagram under the hood. The glow plugs or relay shouldn't cause your issues, especially since you're in Florida.

There are timing graphs in the timing belt writeup and Bentley manual. You should use those when checking the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cant really say why 34 was popped i am assuming that it was popped when i bought the car. What i can say is that it has not popped since i discovered it. I would assume that if i had a short still it would be a continuing issue.

I also am not familiar with the term red herring for the starter and ignition suggestion.


So back to the very beggining the previous owner told me that this all happend in a rain storm. Not sure how that affect the timing jump.But i can understand some of the electrcal. They did not have the belly pan on so ther could have been some water intrusion somwhere. The glow plug module had a pin burned off it and relay 109 looked burnt. 180 had no power out.


So i think the only unneccassry mistakes at this point where temp senor and crank sensor.



The maf sensor kept throwing codes over and over so i replaced it. I got a noticable increase in power and idle smoothness but nothing crazy


If i am correct the cold start injector is in the front of the pump with two bolts towards the bottom with no wires going to it right. Is this somthing that can be taken out without springs hitting me in the face. Is it somthing that can be cleaned. Or is this a replace item
 

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My next ? should the shudder valve remain open when starting or should it close during starting? It seems to move freely. But i did notice a small amount of oil weeping from the weep hole. I have read the egr section and found that this is not good. But did not see if the shudder valve should close during starting or not. Dont know if this acts as a choke.
 

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My next ? should the shudder valve remain open when starting or should it close during starting? It seems to move freely. But i did notice a small amount of oil weeping from the weep hole. I have read the egr section and found that this is not good. But did not see if the shudder valve should close during starting or not. Dont know if this acts as a choke.
Oil weeping is a common problem. It's not a problem unless it leaks oil onto the belt or the turbo. The valve should be spring loaded and stay open at all times except when you shut the engine off.
 

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It does remain open. I will get timing checked asap. Just curios though if the timing is off enough to make the engine not start wouldnt it run very poorly?
 

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Is there a way to check the cold start injector. It appears that all the wires run into 1 harness. After reading the cold start section and looking at the diagrams still not sure were it is. The only wires i see go all the way to the bottom of the pump. Th only knob looking thing on the front (facing the radiator) of the pump has no wires going to it or a connector. Just looks like a cap with two hex bolts.

Could it be possible to unplug the pump all together for a while to reset the computer. Seems like a long shot but i will ask anyway.
 

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I'm pretty sure that unplugging the pump won't do a thing except throw codes. Injection pump timing is very important can is probably one of the most common reasons for hard start. I'd take a break and triple check that timing is within range and all timing belt marks are on before chasing more complicated things.

Also, is the battery OK? A low battery or low crank speed will tell the car's computer to not inject fuel.

The MAF sensor is good, the intake is not clogged, you checked the anti-shudder valve, and compression is good so you know that it's not an air problem. Also, even if the MAF sensors was bad it shouldn't cause no start, it'll cause low power.

Therefore, it's a fuel or electrical problem. And of course, there's always the possibility of a faulty injection pump that isn't injecting fuel at the right times.

Also, check the fuel injection quantity. Here is the article http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/IQ-adjust-hammer-mod-TDI.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok i will get the timing checked before diggin anymore. I could use a break driving me nuts. I will let you know when i get this done and the results. Thank you for the help.
 

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thanks for the advce chitty. The idot i hired had the injector timing off by two teeth.

For anyone who veiws the artical do not hire anyone who is not a tdi mechanic without the proper tools. Its worth a little extra to get it right the first time. I personally will be purchasing vag com the next time service is needed. I wish that I bought vag com and the timing tools and did it myself from the begining. Also for anyone in the Sarasota FL area ED at Cape imports is the man. Great service, Great price, nice people.
 

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thanks for the advce chitty. The idot i hired had the injector timing off by two teeth.

For anyone who veiws the artical do not hire anyone who is not a tdi mechanic without the proper tools. Its worth a little extra to get it right the first time. I personally will be purchasing vag com the next time service is needed. I wish that I bought vag com and the timing tools and did it myself from the begining. Also for anyone in the Sarasota FL area ED at Cape imports is the man. Great service, Great price, nice people.
What a nightmare. I'm confused though, Cape imports found the problem and fixed it? Does it run OK now?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
much better. Suprisingly it ran ok before. Just did not start. But it definatly runs better. Yes cape imports fixed it and put a smile on my face, for today anyway.
 
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