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Great writeup. I'm getting ready to do it this weekend. One question though, when are the 2 driveaxle seals utilized? I don't see the callout in the procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
OK, those seals are for the transmission flange. They are optional. If it's seeping or you have high mileage, may want to replace them anyways.
 

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If you see wet stains or sticky dirt around the output flange it's seeping. Sometimes engine oil can blow and drip around and also look like a leak from somewhere else.
 

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did the tranny drop and reinstall following the steps outlined here. great write up. took about an hour to remove and 45 mins to reinstall.
tranny was coming out to do the diff bearings which was really not too hard and didnt need any special tools besides the 8m triple square bit.
the only fun I had was trying to make the clutch work again as the slave cylinder had stopped working for some reason. the hydraulics had not even been disconnected. 5.5 hours of frustration and cursing while bleeding the system (no luck) and trying to reverse bleed by backing off the bleed screw and allowing the slave cylinder to fill from a tube of fluid attatched to the bleed screw then applying pressure to the slave to force fluid slowly through the master to the reservoir. this produced some results in that there was movement of the slave when the clutch pedal was depressed as long as the slave had not been completely depressed. I had that bloody slave in and out about 6 times before it dawned on me that, regardless of the difficulty, the slave had to be installed while extended (ie. full of fluid). that was a problem due to the absolute lack of space to do this.
nonetheless I did install the slave while extended and the clutch has worked fine since.
 

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i remove slave from trans, then use as syringe to suck fluid in, open bleeder to push out, close.. then suck back in...

the slave sucked ait in as its seals are failing.. due to the rod being extended all way out with no load on it.. i too do not disconnect the lines... and the only car i had do that same thing too needed a slave shortly after
 

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I spent hours trying to get the passenger flange "over" the flywheel towards the drivers side. You don't need to. At least if you use the jack as shown, you can drop the transmission straight down with the passenger side flange on the passenger side of the flywheel. Unless this is not usually the case, it might save others some agony to add this to the main post. I used the block/tackle approach as suggested by one of the past edits.

trans1.jpg


IMG_4345.jpg
 

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http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/transmissionremovalbak.htm

this page still has all the mistakes like TORQUE SPECS you wrote down 74 foot pounds on horizontal transmission mount bolts and this error cost me a transmission mount

Torquing to 37 ft/ lbs and then 1/4 turn doesn't seem right. I initially read the page with right info and torqued all bolts to 37 ft lbs. But when I started the 1/4 turn process I was feeling a lot of resistance and double checked the page which brought me to the top link which had the mistake of 74 ft lbs. So I stripped/spun the bolt on bracket side. The others I got half way to quarter turn after 37 ft lbs. When i removed bolts from transmission side threading there was shredded aluminum all inside. Not sure yet if I have to Re-thread the transmission side housing. Waiting for new bracket and seeing if I am able to install bolts without stripping. This time I'm going to 37 ft lbs and stopping at half the quarter turn.

My torque wrench was compared and held a proper value and I drew an arrow to reference the quarter turn process.
 

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http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/transmissionremovalbak.htm

this page still has all the mistakes like TORQUE SPECS you wrote down 74 foot pounds on horizontal transmission mount bolts and this error cost me a transmission mount

Torquing to 37 ft/ lbs and then 1/4 turn doesn't seem right. I initially read the page with right info and torqued all bolts to 37 ft lbs. But when I started the 1/4 turn process I was feeling a lot of resistance and double checked the page which brought me to the top link which had the mistake of 74 ft lbs. So I stripped/spun the bolt on bracket side. The others I got half way to quarter turn after 37 ft lbs. When i removed bolts from transmission side threading there was shredded aluminum all inside. Not sure yet if I have to Re-thread the transmission side housing. Waiting for new bracket and seeing if I am able to install bolts without stripping. This time I'm going to 37 ft lbs and stopping at half the quarter turn.

My torque wrench was compared and held a proper value and I drew an arrow to reference the quarter turn process.
Did you reuse the same bolts? Any time you tighten to a certain value then so many degrees more sounds like a torque to yield bolt...... not supposed to reuse those
 

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In the Part 1 page where you list TTY bolts to have on hand, you should add 6 ball joint bolts N 101 277 07 -- three for each side.
 
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