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Discussion Starter #1
Some of this was grouped into the keyless entry retrofit and immobilizer articles. Because it can be confusing, I split all the info into 3 separate articles.

For mk3 cars, just program the remote and it'll work. The key can be cut anywhere
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a3b4/keyremoteprogram.htm

For mk4 cars, you can salvage the parts from an old key to make a new key work. If you don't have an old key to salvage, I recommend just going to the dealer.

The remote/key is actually 3 different parts. The keyless entry remote, the flip key, and the immobilizer. Each must be correct for the car for the remote to work as intended. You must program the immobilizer in addition to the keyless entry or else the immobilizer will shut off the engine after 2 seconds.

The dealer can order a cut key via the VIN, I think some larger dealers can cut it for you. The keyless entry can be programmed by yourself. The issue is that the immobilizer must be done by the dealer or other aftermarket tools+the vag com.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a4/vw_key_faq.htm

The mk5 key is the same idea so I cut out all the unneeded mk4 related stuff and put it into this article:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/a5/mk5keyFAQ.htm
 

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FYI, you can also take the bulldog cheapo unit and retrofit it to the earlier 96-99 passat or jettas. Just tap into the wiring at the vac pump and it'll think that the key has been turned in the lock. This will disarm the alarm and unlock the doors as if you used a key. I remember that there were some problems with discontinuing the bulldog units.
 

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FYI the copycat vag tachos on ebay can get the SKC on mk4 cars. You can then use that with a vagcom to play with the immobilizer. The reason vagcom doesn't want to do it is to avoid unnecessary hacking and to avoid people from bypassing the immobilizer ie, theft, etc. There's even a relatively easy way to break into these cars without smashing the window but I am not going to say any more. Not like it matters since a hammer+window = even easier. And you can always put the car on a flatbed if you want to steal it, no anti theft device if foolproof.
 

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Yes, vag tacho will work on mk4 but I haven't tried it. I don't recommend the vag coms on ebay since you still have to pay $99 from vag com for software, i am told the vag tacho on ebay works.

But if you do everything at the minimum price,

vag tacho - $55?
vag com from ebay plus software activation - $140?

I don't know if the ones off ebay can even work with the immobilizer I'm pretty sure they don't work on mk5 cars, so add another $150 for a genuine vag com cable.

Now you're at $350 with no guarantees that the key is the correct part, it would have been cheaper and faster to shop around local dealers. $400 would be high for a key + programming.
 

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So the programming thing where you put the key in the door won't let you start the car?
No, the remote programming is to open the door. The key is cut to turn the ignition cylinder, it will start the car.

The immobilizer is a chip inside the key and it shuts off the engine after 2 seconds if it's not working or not programmed correctly.
 

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So if the key was shattered you could swap over the chip and the metal part of the key and it'll work just fine?
 

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Key Programming in LR, AR

2006 1/2 VW Jetta TDI. I lost a set of keys on an airline and went to the dealer here to replace them. Key, FOB and tax $147.80. They wanted an additional $100.00 plus tax to program. I thought I would look around for an alternative. $100 labor just seemed outrageous for this service.
 

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Chittychittybangbang, you seem to be pretty sharp about the VW alarm system, so I have a question for you. I have taken a '97 1Z from a Jetta and installed it into a '97 Geo Tracker. I used about 90% Jetta wiring and 10% Tracker wiring (tail light wiring). Yea, quite the project. I'm just about done with it. Drove it for the first time yesterday. Runs great! Anyway, I am determined to make the Jetta factory keyless entry system operable on the Tracker. I have gone down your entire troubleshooting checklist and made sure that all is correct. Problem is, I do not have the air pump door lock system, I have normal electric door lock actuators. I did not remove the airpump and module from the trunk of the donor car. Question is, can I make this system work with door lock actuators? And how would I do it? Right now, whenever I connect the battery, I just get the continuous alarm beeping. Can't get it to quit. Gotta be caused by absence of the airpump module?
I have another question. I did a complete EGR delete, and I mean delete. Do you know of a resistor that can be put in place of the N75 to fool the ECM? I happened to have a resistor that fools it at idol, but after driving it yesterday, it threw an EGR code.
 

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Chitty,

I just changed my battery in the FOB because it was no longer opening my doors. Now the doors lock and unlock, but I am no longer getting the horn when I hit the lock button, any thoughts or comments?

Thanks,

Dennis Kelderman
 
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