VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze Diesel forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

a few tips would be great...
it seems I need to take the engine out, but physically there's no way that I can do it by lowering it as my handbook says.

Does it go by lifting it out with a small crane ?
Is it possible to leave gearbox and clutch in, or does that just make life more difficult?
Any other tips?
Thanks,
Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Out the front with the transmission attached is the way to do it with an engine crane/ hoist. That way you can leave the dog-bone in position and don't have to worry about alignment etc.
Easier job than you think once you get started.
I would put the rear wheels on ramps and the front on two axle stands. If you disconnect the drive shafts at the gearbox you should get enough clearance. You might need to loosen the lower ball joint to move the shafts a bit further out the way but not always.
Good luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great - thanks for the advice! It really helps to have a guiding hand.
It's just below freezing here and my garage is small and unheated, so I reckon it takes a bit of time til I'm mobile again. After that, a new garage is on the cards!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
89 Posts
I took it out the front on my 2003 Golf. It's super easy to take the front clip off! Back wheels on the ground, front on jack stands. You will lose your coolant. I've taken it out x2. The first time I disconnected the A/C hoses from the compressor and had to recharge it.

The 2nd time I took the compressor off the engine and wrangled the engine out and back in again without having to recharge it. I lost all my power steering fluid the 1st time disconnecting at the lower end at the rack and pinion. Seems like the 2nd time I also removed the power steering pump from the engine and didn't have to refill that. Might be I disconnected at the pump so lost less power steering fluid.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mine has no extra hydraulic fluid for steering (an electro motor instead in the steering gear). So this is not problematic.
But ... trying to work out how to take the aircon compressor / refrigerant circuit off / move it out the way without losing the fluid - taking it slow and checking it out first.
Does the compressor move enough if unbolted from engine, and the front 'clip' (lock carrier - grill/radiator bits) is moved forward about 15-20cm with home made T10093s?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
89 Posts
Mine has no extra hydraulic fluid for steering (an electro motor instead in the steering gear). So this is not problematic.
But ... trying to work out how to take the aircon compressor / refrigerant circuit off / move it out the way without losing the fluid - taking it slow and checking it out first.
Does the compressor move enough if unbolted from engine, and the front 'clip' (lock carrier - grill/radiator bits) is moved forward about 15-20cm with home made T10093s?
Sounds like you're going out the top? Compressor is unbolted from the engine. Mine was flexible enough to swing the driver side of the clip toward the passenger side, with the passenger side as the hinge, unbolted. I had it resting on something.

I'm not saying it's easy. But it saves you from buying a new dryer/desiccant, refrigerant and recharging it.
$30 Aftermarket dryer
$60 - Harbor Freight gauges (same thing can be found for $30 online),
$80 - Auto parts stores have 4 12oz cans r134a $10ea + $10 ea can deposit,
$90 - Harbor Freight A/C vacuum pump. These can be borrowed meaning bought, used and returned at most auto parts stores as part of their tool loaner program - if they have one in stock.

So if you just want get the the engine out of your car fastest and get the front end off easier, drain and remove the A/C hoses from the compressor and leave the compressor bolted on.

Remember! The A/C hoses are under pressure if not properly drained and captured using special equipment! I'm not telling you to be environmentally insensitive and vent it to air. If you do, the refrigerant is bad for you to inhale, bad for your eyes and could give you frost bite on your skin. So be careful!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the reply. It makes such a difference when someone gives advice who has done it already.
I've one more cylinder head to test on it to prove the leak between oil & coolant is in engine block - I know 100% that this head doesn't leak so just need to put it on and do a compression test - doesn't need turbo, intercooler, cam belt, tandem pump etc - just the coolant stuff. If this fails, then the engine is definitely coming out. I bought a movable engine holder / stand thing already :) but I'm hoping not to have to use it just yet
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top