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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
My jetta 2006 TDI, is stalling randomly since several month.
It was stalling on outroad ways or on a left curve...
I changed the DMF and G28 (error P0321) because of knocking sound when the engine at idle. When press the clutch the sound desapears.---> error gone but still stalling.

I also changed G40. --> error gone but still stalling

Changed the timing belt. --> OK but still stalling

Changed the 4 glow plug --> error gone on glowplug cylinder 3 but still stalling

Changed the throttle flat --> error P2015 gone but still stalling.

Now it stalls without known pre-sign.
Did i missed something ?
Could it be the diesel pump ? Working fine moments and missing others ?
My brakes also need to be replaced but the brake signal on dash stopped to turn on after several alerts. Is it normal ?
 

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It's possible it's a fuel problem but it doesn't explain the knocking sound.

Any fuel leaks? Good fuel filter? It's possible it's a bad tandem pump. On the driver's side end of the head there's a dual fuel and vacuum pump. Normal fuel economy? No other error codes? There's an electric fuel pump in the fuel tank. It's possible it's cutting out or clogged resulting in no fuel.

The other injection pumps are the injectors themselves. If there's a wiring problem to the head (look at driver's side round plug), it's possible it could result in fuel cut.

Good engine compression? I'm not sure if the knocking sound at idle is a bad camshaft but have you inspected the cam? http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/camshaft-inspection-replace-VW-TDI.htm I don't think this would be silenced by stepping on the clutch though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The knocking sound disapeared after changing DMF.
Quality of fuel is bad that's a fact.
For now there is no error code except the P0321 concerning the G28 sensor.
It doesn't light the check engine.
I didnt check the camshaft, my mecanician told me it's not a wear problem, the engine sound is good.
I noticed a black smoke when I press throttle due to bad fuel quality.

I forgot to notice that frequently the tach fall to 0, the glowplug and oil lights flash, air conditionning and ASR go off.
 

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Have you checked the wiring harness to the injectors? Maybe turning left is letting some wires touch and cut fuel.
 

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05 TDI Jetta Stalling BRM engine, standard trans

I am at the end of my patience, though I am someone that does not give up on things.

I can tell you what I have done that has NOT fixed my random stalling problem.

The car stalls when slowing down to a stop, after cranking for at least 15 seconds with my foot on the gas pedal it starts. Sometimes it is difficult to start with same symptoms when I initially want to start the car with engine cold. Outside temperature has no effect, the stalling occurs random though it occurs more often when the tank is less than 1/2 full.

I have done the following without having success;

1. Replaced lift pump in tank(Used OEM pump).
2. Replaced fuel filter.
2. Took it to the dealer for diagnostics, they could not find any problems or codes.
3. Replaced timing belt( using correct tools)
4. Had the turbo rebuilt due to oil leakage.
5. Replaced cam.
5. Replaced cam timing sensor.
6. Replaced engine speed sensor.
7. Replaced fuel pump relay.
8. Removed and inspected all fuses.
9. Replaced engine wiring harness.

After all of this the problem remains, even though it averages 45 MPG and the engine runs very strong.

I am an expert mechanic and rarely get stuck but this one has kicked my butt. If anyone knows of a solution I will really appreciate it if you can pass it on. After spending allot of time and money I am now seriously considering spending 5 dollars more on a gallon of gasoline and setting it on fire. I am posting this every where I can in hope that someone has a solution, I will pass it on if I achieve success.
 

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I am at the end of my patience, though I am someone that does not give up on things.

I can tell you what I have done that has NOT fixed my random stalling problem.

The car stalls when slowing down to a stop, after cranking for at least 15 seconds with my foot on the gas pedal it starts. Sometimes it is difficult to start with same symptoms when I initially want to start the car with engine cold. Outside temperature has no effect, the stalling occurs random though it occurs more often when the tank is less than 1/2 full.

I have done the following without having success;

1. Replaced lift pump in tank(Used OEM pump).
2. Replaced fuel filter.
2. Took it to the dealer for diagnostics, they could not find any problems or codes.
3. Replaced timing belt( using correct tools)
4. Had the turbo rebuilt due to oil leakage.
5. Replaced cam.
5. Replaced cam timing sensor.
6. Replaced engine speed sensor.
7. Replaced fuel pump relay.
8. Removed and inspected all fuses.
9. Replaced engine wiring harness.

After all of this the problem remains, even though it averages 45 MPG and the engine runs very strong.

I am an expert mechanic and rarely get stuck but this one has kicked my butt. If anyone knows of a solution I will really appreciate it if you can pass it on. After spending allot of time and money I am now seriously considering spending 5 dollars more on a gallon of gasoline and setting it on fire. I am posting this every where I can in hope that someone has a solution, I will pass it on if I achieve success.
Engine sounds fine but just guessing with known common problems: is it possible the injector bores are leaking compression? Sometime they go oval. EGR or intake valve closing? Sometimes the plastic gears strip and they doesn't move right.
 

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Is there a testing procedure for the EGR or Intake valve? Is there a way to take them apart to inspect for worn parts? I know it is difficult to get to the EGR valve so I am going to remove and try to dissect the intake valve to see if it is the culprit of my problem. If anything clean it to insure there isn't carbon gunk causing it to get stuck.
 

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VCDS should have basic settings to move them. Otherwise, disassemble and take a look, I've never done it but seen pics. If you want to document inspection w/pics, please do!
 

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Is there a testing procedure for the EGR or Intake valve? Is there a way to take them apart to inspect for worn parts? I know it is difficult to get to the EGR valve so I am going to remove and try to dissect the intake valve to see if it is the culprit of my problem. If anything clean it to insure there isn't carbon gunk causing it to get stuck.
The "intake valve" is actually an anti-shudder valve. The easiest way to test it is to unplug the connector and drive around. A CEL will occur, ignore it.

Unless I missed it, have you checked the MAF? Test it by using vcds or simply unplugging it and driving around.
 

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Sounds like my car

Was you wire harness a new one or used?
The intake valves are easy to open and look at the gears, mine were stripped, no way to flip it over either

Mine was the Engine wire harness and could still be. I fixed some things but I'm still having issues.

My Engine wire harness was repaired in 10 places, 5 breaks and 5 damaged bad. I will add the pictures. It's bottom right side of front of car. I have a spare wire harness which I swapped out and found had the same issues, but could not find any breaks in that area, so they break in other spots too.

Location Ottawa

Brian
 

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