[JFettig]

Hopefully I'll have my head back this weekend and start re-assembly.

A question came up, and I'll be honest, I haven't done extensive searching or reading just whats in front of me.

My injection pump timing is where it was when the belt shredded and I have to turn it to position and put the locking pin in. I haven't cranked on it at all but it would rotate a little bit then get a little tighter, is this normal and do I just keep turning until it lines up for the locking pin? I'm just turning on the outside of the timing pulley on it, not messing with any settings.

Second question. When the belt is ready to go on and get tensioned, do I crack the 3 bolts loose on the IP then tension it, then tighten them back down?

Thanks,
Jon

 

[chittychittybangbang]

Some resistance is normal because hte insides are turning against the internal cam and pump.

The 3 bolts are loose, set belt tension, tighten bolts. The idea is that the camshaft and IP sprockets are floating so that tension is totally even across the belt and so that when you remove the locks, timing is unchanged from where you set it.

 

[JFettig]

Thanks, thats what I was thinking but wanted to play it safe.


Jon

 

[JFettig]

Another question that came up. Do I install the camshaft seal with oil on the lip or dry? The Haynes manual says to use oil but I know some seals need to be installed dry.

Thanks,
Jon

 

[chittychittybangbang]

If the seal is rubber+metal spring, wet.

If teflon (papery), dry and let it sit for a while before running the engine.

 

[chittychittybangbang]

PS, is this video of any help? I would link to the video but he uses the paint method instead of the tools which I don't recommend.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv9hW7US5fk