Ok . . . new to posting here, and a little new to repairing (well . . .major repairs anyway) my 2001 TDI Beetle. (this is me right here)=> :dunno
For whatever reason, at 70,000 miles, the injection pump has "gone south" . . . it doesn't develop adequate pressure to open the injectors. The lowest replacement cost that I can get from a repair shop is $3000, P&L, which I find "prohibitive." I have plenty of wrenching experience (full engine rebuilds on everything from vintage tractors to many different gas engined autos), but little with this bug. I am attempting to replace the pump myself. I have located a Bosch reconditioned pump for a reasonable price, the related engine blocking tools, and I am ordering the Vag-Com software (and studying it's use). I have read many of the fine threads here about this issue. I have two questions for the obviously very experienced VW "hobbyists" here:
1) Am I crazy to take this on?!? Frankly, the idea of "mastering" this little car intrigues me, which gives me some "incentive."
2) All the info that I can find, including posts here and the factory service manual that I have purchased from the Vee-dub dealer (which I find pert nearly worthless), says that I should "Never, Never disturb the nut on the pump hub" (on the "keyless tapered shaft" that has a woodruff key slot and no key . . . go figure) because this is set up for the basic timing of the pump, and the fine tuning is taken up by the three slotted bolts. BUT . . . and hear's the "rub" . . . the new pump appears to come "sans nut and hub." SO . . . How does one establish the basic timing of the hub to the pump on a new pump? (which I assume would put the pump timing slots approximately in the middle of the necessary timing span to allow fine tuning).
Perhaps I don't understand this at all . . . so commentary from any one much wiser on this issue than I would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
For whatever reason, at 70,000 miles, the injection pump has "gone south" . . . it doesn't develop adequate pressure to open the injectors. The lowest replacement cost that I can get from a repair shop is $3000, P&L, which I find "prohibitive." I have plenty of wrenching experience (full engine rebuilds on everything from vintage tractors to many different gas engined autos), but little with this bug. I am attempting to replace the pump myself. I have located a Bosch reconditioned pump for a reasonable price, the related engine blocking tools, and I am ordering the Vag-Com software (and studying it's use). I have read many of the fine threads here about this issue. I have two questions for the obviously very experienced VW "hobbyists" here:
1) Am I crazy to take this on?!? Frankly, the idea of "mastering" this little car intrigues me, which gives me some "incentive."
2) All the info that I can find, including posts here and the factory service manual that I have purchased from the Vee-dub dealer (which I find pert nearly worthless), says that I should "Never, Never disturb the nut on the pump hub" (on the "keyless tapered shaft" that has a woodruff key slot and no key . . . go figure) because this is set up for the basic timing of the pump, and the fine tuning is taken up by the three slotted bolts. BUT . . . and hear's the "rub" . . . the new pump appears to come "sans nut and hub." SO . . . How does one establish the basic timing of the hub to the pump on a new pump? (which I assume would put the pump timing slots approximately in the middle of the necessary timing span to allow fine tuning).
Perhaps I don't understand this at all . . . so commentary from any one much wiser on this issue than I would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!